tips on brazing Henry James plug in style dropouts

[michäel2]

Hi All,
im planning to use these :Henry James Rear Horizontal Road Dropouts : Henry James Custom Made Parts For Bicycle Frame Builders and Bike Enthusiasts
on my next project, in the past i have only used wright/breezer style droputs and i dont have a great deal of brazing experience.
i was thinking of using my Harris silver and flux from cycle design, purley because thats what i have in the drawer to suit stainless.

my plan is ( so far ) to mechanically clean the plug and run a file inside the stays to clean and roughen the surface, rince it out with acetone.
set up the drop outs and tube in my jig and leave a minnor gap between the collar of dropout and tube when setting up.
set jig in vertical position so that silver doesnt have to work against gravity.
set flame on tube and feed silver in between collar and tube.
ill have opposite ends open for breeding purposes and i will braze in a dark room so i have a better idea of discolouring of the tube/heat input.

Please,i am all ears to your input !
thanks

[Eric Estlund]

Work on face fill practice (as you describe) and try playing around with pre-formed filler (sweating from the inside out). Whichever you feel generates the best, most repeatable results for your method could the the right way for you. As with all stainless brazing, be sure to get the part prep, flux and temp on point before jumping in with the final product.

[steve garro]

pre-formed filler (sweating from the inside out).

As with all stainless brazing, be sure to get the part prep, flux and temp on point before jumping in

Use the pre-formed ring they sent you.

- Garro.

[steve garro]

PS - for anything that's stainless and will be under stress I use 50N or 45%


- Garro.

[Jonathan]

To add to what the others have said, you may want to purchase some stainless rod and scrap tube to mimic the joint you'll be doing. Stainless heats a little differently and having some cheap practice joints done before brazing the dropouts seems like cheap insurance. If you don't get the joint clean and full penetration you stand a really good chance of the joint separating.

[e-RICHIE]

I never use stainless but my parts are all male/female as you're facing now. I always notch the stays and blades with a 4" round bastard cut file. It looks like a half-moon when I'm done. Use the area to feed brazing material in from, and when complete, add a small blob over it and file it flush. Even after 45 years, it's hard (for me) to add filler into a straight cut edge without some of it wanting to spill onto the exterior.

[michäel2]

thats a great idea, i was thinking of perhaps leaving a gap but didn't really like that idea for obvious reasons. thanks all for the replies and idea, im picking the parcel from post office tomorrow, should be cooking this weekend, thanks !

[jon_norstog]

I never use stainless but my parts are all male/female as you're facing now. I always notch the stays and blades with a 4" round bastard cut file. It looks like a half-moon when I'm done. Use the area to feed brazing material in from, and when complete, add a small blob over it and file it flush. Even after 45 years, it's hard (for me) to add filler into a straight cut edge without some of it wanting to spill onto the exterior.

Good advice here. That is what works for me in similar sitations, for instance front dropouts and the Ritchey "Breakaway" coupler.

jn