Knife Sharpening

[longlegged]

Kinda like the best bike you have is the one you think of grabbing first before heading out the door, the same goes with sharpeners. The best sharpener is the one you reach for first and do so regularly to keep your knives sharp.

Thus far, I've had good experiences with my Spyderco Sharpmaker for kitchen knives and folding knives.

[WadePatton]

I've graduated a little bit from the EdgePro (only) school.

As i learned how to hone a straight razor free-hand (built-in guide) and bought a 30/60x loupe for REAL edge inspection, I've learned a lot more about cutting edges and the proper sharpening thereof.

Also the Japanese Knife Tech thread here got me cranked as to how easy it is to sharpen a single bevel knife.

SO I now have a set of Norton Waterstones, combo 220/1000, 4000/8000, and the flattening stone. Know that you're going to spend some time flattening brand new Norton Stones. Keeping them flat should be much less hassle.

And I have my Edge Pro. And I use both. Plus ceramics where applicable. It's all about the edge and getting there.

WISH i'd had a good flattening stone sooner.

the 8000 Norton is finer* than my amber Belgian (razor stone). So that my razors now shave better.

I don't strop with paste, just oiled leather (vintage). the edge is mirror-reflective off the 8000.

But that that's too fine for kitchen knives according to Norton.

*Interesting thing is that the "grits" don't line up. Still looking for a cross-ref, but the water-stone and natural stone grit numbers are not the same/same. So there can be some confusion there if you're like me and get caught up with numbers. Micron finish rating is probably the most universal way of reference stones, but not many are described that way. More study determined that the problem is different standards of different sorts of abrasives and that they vary by location.

here's a handy guide: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sh...rt-W21C60.aspx

Also, there are a lot of little kinks to using the Edge Pro most effectively. My advice, watch the videos and start with high-carbon knives in fair-to-better condition (as opposed to harder steels and major corrections). Then match the factory edge EVERY chance you get. Pay attention to stone wear, and avoid big corrections to heels and bevels if you want to prolong the flatness of your stones. Use marker and magnifier OFTEN to check actual contact--check/set contact with polish tape or finest stone. Use it some then look back at the videos.

And the coolest trick for the Edge Pro---is that the DMT 6x2 diamond plate fits into it and SHOULD be used for major corrections and also doubles as a stone flattener. It's available here (in single and double-sided), where i got my waterstone kit: Sharpening Supplies - Sharpen Your Knives and Tools With The Right Supplies

They have everything else too.

Single most important thing i've come to realize, until you turn a burr-you are not there. Edges can feel sharp before you get to that point. don't buy it. Get the burr, zero magnification necessary, polish it away. Tha's the edge.

Bevels is a whole discussion in itself.

...OHMY! my high-carbon Deda came in the mail today...i gotta get some fishes.

[spopepro]

Single bevels have also changed the way I look at sharpening. I can get such an amazing edge on my deba and yanagiba I kind of end up bummed that I can't seem to be better with my double bevel knives. At first I thought that it was just a situation that the edge can be so much finer with just the single bevel, but then I picked up one of these:

...and it's amazing. So it's me, my henckels, or a combination of the two. In the mean time, I'll keep working on them. I'm putting a rule on myself that I'm not allowed to grab another knife until I'm better at making a great edge on my current german knives.

I use a DMT coarse diamond "stone" to flatten my water stones. After working for way too long flattening a couple of new stones, I should have purchased the extra coarse. Even thought it takes a while, it's leaves a really nice surface.

As another note that has made my sharpening life better--turns out the "large" size water stones (nominally 8x3 inches) fit perfectly in a 1/2 width food tray (you know, the kind that fit in the refrigerated cases on the line? what are they called?). I got a 4 inch deep tray, and if you have the common rubber stone holder you can keep your stones in water in the tray, put the stone you're using in the rubber above it, and it will sit nicely on the edges of the tray, making more water handy and cleanup super easy.

[WadePatton]

Yes, the simplicity of keeping a brilliant edge on the single-bevels was the main selling point for me, and NOW i'm in LOVE with the heft and balance of that knife. More fishing this year for sure, but then THat's another thread...

Back to the stones and such: The only thing else I want/need is the DMT plate. And since i have the Norton "fixer" stone, I'll just get a single-grit DMT, reducing that expense. NO stone i had on hand was flat btw. was. being the operative word there.

[jitahs]

Single bevels have also changed the way I look at sharpening. I can get such an amazing edge on my deba and yanagiba I kind of end up bummed that I can't seem to be better with my double bevel knives. At first I thought that it was just a situation that the edge can be so much finer with just the single bevel, but then I picked up one of these:

...and it's amazing. So it's me, my henckels, or a combination of the two. In the mean time, I'll keep working on them. I'm putting a rule on myself that I'm not allowed to grab another knife until I'm better at making a great edge on my current germanknives

I'm going to predict you, or anyone else, are not going to come close to a good Deba. It's the thickness of the blank that is the problem ime. You really notice it when you go do an initial cut through thick fruit or vegetables; at some point the edge stops doing the work, the width of the blade pries it apart.

The day I broke the tip of my Henckels was liberating.

[WadePatton]

... to a good Deba. It's the thickness of the blank that is the problem ime. You really notice it when you go do an initial cut through thick fruit or vegetables; at some point the edge stops doing the work, the width of the blade pries it apart.

The day I broke the tip of my Henckels was liberating.

Yes, it's different world. there's no crossover. in or out.

Now back to water-stone sharpening:

and in this case a single-bevel deba: as noted earlier, you might need a full-session of just getting your waterstones flat if they're Norton. Naturals or King or other makes may be flatter out of the box, i do not know. These, all except the flattening stone of course, tended to be convex-and have me much more interested in diamond cutting tools for the purpose of truing stones than ever before.

the deba, looked beautiful, but needed a bit of work to get the bevel trued. Used the 220 to get a clean bevel, then the 1000 and 4000. I only cut a single angle as it's a whole new technique for me. I may work toward the compound angle next time. I also didn't work the flat side quite enough for a first-time sharpening.

I'd recommend those not real handy with sharpening to let the knife shop do the initial work-if they don't as a matter of course. After that, it's just maintenance, which i expect to be a breeze.

I stropped the final wire edge away on canvas, hit the leather lightly.

Now I have a razor-like edge with the mass of a axe-and that lovely flat side. but that's for the other thread.

[Nathanrtaylor]

Yes, it's different world. there's no crossover. in or out.

Now back to water-stone sharpening:

and in this case a single-bevel deba: as noted earlier, you might need a full-session of just getting your waterstones flat if they're Norton. Naturals or King or other makes may be flatter out of the box, i do not know. These, all except the flattening stone of course, tended to be convex-and have me much more interested in diamond cutting tools for the purpose of truing stones than ever before.

Hey Wade, next time your stones are un-flat, try gluing a sheet of automotive finishing wet/dry sandpaper to a piece of plate glass with a hit of spray adhesive. Works on the stones, sure, but it also does a heck of a job on the knives too. Cheap. Damn effective.

I used to sharpen my carving tools like that in art school. Kept doing kitchen knives that way. Never upgraded to japanese waterstones even for the romance factor.