Knife Sharpening

[dhoff]

So for years, I prepared for trips into the woods by sitting for hours, sharpening my knives. I took great pride in my ability to put a razor's edge on some blades and an edge that would stand up to anything and stay sharp on others. On one particularly leisurely journey in northern Ontario, I sat by the fire and sharpened my knife till it would shave, and then shaved my head, stopping periodically to clean up the edge. It would be great to have that kind of leisure time again, though I might use it differently.

So all of this is off the point. And I am sure I have come to the right place for an answer to this question.

Where does one get a good sharpening stone these days? I mean the last stone I would ever buy. Does the aficionado go to Japanese Water Stones, Modern Diamond stones, or the old favorite Soft, Hard and Black Arkansas wet stones?

Has new technology brought forth something worthy of note?

It has been 30 years (and 3 months) since I bought a sharpening stone. So what do I get? No limits, spend what it takes, the stones or systems that will take good care of fine blades for the next 40 years or so, longer if my kids use them

Can't wait to hear what you all have to offer.

[zank]

I have a cheap 1x30 belt sander that I got from Harbor Freight and a bunch of the belts and the leather honing belt from Edge Masters.
Sharpening Supplies for Sale

I go up to 1000 gri and then the leather. Puts one heck of an edge on a knife.

[dhoff]

I have a cheap 1x30 belt sander that I got from Harbor Freight and a bunch of the belts and the leather honing belt from Edge Masters.
Sharpening Supplies for Sale

I go up to 1000 gri and then the leather. Puts one heck of an edge on a knife.

I have long operated on the premise that doing so would heat the edge and risk messing with the temper of the steel. Do you notice any discoloration of the edge?

[zank]

I have long operated on the premise that doing so would heat the edge and risk messing with the temper of the steel. Do you notice any discoloration of the edge?

No color at all. Bright and shiny. I take very light passes. And one or two swipes with the leather belt and honing compound is all I've needed.

[mgdanna]

I am a NYC stagehand. I carry a knife and use it daily. All of my knives have 3 or 4 inch blades and are of the folding variety. I prefer serrated knives to cut through rope, tape, string, cardboard etc. I am partial to Spyderco knives for their durability. Their original edge is cut on a 30 degree angle.

I have also owned several Kershaw non-serrated knives. Their original angle is cut closer to 25 degrees. They are potentially sharper but less durable.

For my Spydercos I use the Spyderco triangular sharpener. The point on the triangle stone allows for the sharpening of serrated blades.

Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker (Set)

For my Kershaws and other knives that have angles other than 30 degrees I use the Lansky sharpener.

https://lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-system/

If you are a surgeon, sushi chef or any other super specialized user, I digress. I use and sharpen knives in a very blue collar, utilitarian fashion. That's what I know and speak of.

I hope this helps.

[Bob Ross]

I am a NYC stagehand.

I heart you guys. Is Norbert Culf still running Local 1?



...oh, and I am definitely reading this entire thread, because my kitchen knives all turn to shit after about a year of my (ab)use.

[jeffreyt]

I've always just used an Arkansas stone from Gerber with a drop of dish soap. Maybe it's not the best or proper way, but it works for our kitchen knives.
Jeff

[Too Tall]

D.H. I use a bit of this and a bit of that. For heavy metal I use a large two sided diamond plate in a holder. All it takes are a few swipes on the course side to begin moving metal.
I was , gulp, an boy scout so I was taught how to use arkansas stones for knives and a file or axe stone for axes, hoes, machettes etc. Old school is still good.
For fast touch ups of my chefs knives I use an el cheapo diamond rod. When I want to get hair splitting edge on my folding knives I'll start with the arkansas stones than finish with ceramic rods and finally an old school long leather razor strop with compound....I could prob. skip the ceramic rods but they are intermediate and seem to make an edge that lasts longer.

[znfdl]

Wade Patton turned me onto US Hand Knife Sharpening Systems | Edge Pro System

It works incredibly well and easy to control.

[amos scattergood]

this place Hida Tool, is near me in Berkeley CA. They are serious about sharp knives and tools!

Woodworking Water Stone

amos

[WadePatton]

Can't beat the Edge Pro (Apex). It uses water stones. see videos at site.

also, the mirror-polished edge is killer.

[Whipsmart]

For my Benchmade EDC, I use medium and fine diamond hones to remove nicks, then use an 800 grit japanese waterstone, then finish with 2000 grit waterstone. I'd say it puts a pretty good edge on 154CM steel. I also use the waterstone to sharpen my chisels, and scrapers. I've used oilstones, and I don't like them as much as waterstones for some reason, though the oilstones hold their shape better. I'd like to own one of the super-fine waterstones someday (50,000+ grit), as I think you could get a pretty darn keen edge with that!

[dang]

Can't beat the Edge Pro (Apex). It uses water stones. see videos at site.

also, the mirror-polished edge is killer.

I've heard pretty good things about this system and was thinking of checking it out.

Frankly, I've been cheating for years with my kitchen knives with a chef's choice machine. With the better ones, used properly (which is not even remotely hard) and not over-used, you get a decent edge without taking away a ton of material or ruining the temper of the blade. And it's just so darn easy and fast. But the Apex looks tempting.

[znfdl]

I've heard pretty good things about this system and was thinking of checking it out.

Frankly, I've been cheating for years with my kitchen knives with a chef's choice machine. With the better ones, used properly (which is not even remotely hard) and not over-used, you get a decent edge without taking away a ton of material or ruining the temper of the blade. And it's just so darn easy and fast. But the Apex looks tempting.

Dan, you are more than welcome to borrow mine, if it will help make you a more informed decision......

[dang]

Dan, you are more than welcome to borrow mine, if it will help make you a more informed decision......

Cools. Maybe I can open a decent bottle to stall you long enough to deliver a few pointers.

[znfdl]

Cools. Maybe I can open a decent bottle to stall you long enough to deliver a few pointers.

Would be my pleasure.....

[znfdl]

I've heard pretty good things about this system and was thinking of checking it out.

Frankly, I've been cheating for years with my kitchen knives with a chef's choice machine. With the better ones, used properly (which is not even remotely hard) and not over-used, you get a decent edge without taking away a ton of material or ruining the temper of the blade. And it's just so darn easy and fast. But the Apex looks tempting.

Dan, you are more than welcome to borrow mine, if it will help make you a more informed decision......

[WadePatton]

I've heard pretty good things about this system and was thinking of checking it out.

Frankly, I've been cheating for years with my kitchen knives with a chef's choice machine. With the better ones, used properly (which is not even remotely hard) and not over-used, you get a decent edge without taking away a ton of material or ruining the temper of the blade. And it's just so darn easy and fast. But the Apex looks tempting.

Dan- or anybody want a sample edge via my edge-pro, send me the knife, return shipping and a coupla dollars for my time. Explain the application and if you want original angles replicated or altered for application. Also, 320 finish leaves more tooth for busting tomato skins than 800 or 2000g finishes.

i have a chef's choice 3-stage (edgeselect 120) for sale! easy but very limited. i've not turned it on since the Apex arrived.

as to the poll. i keep an arkansas stone in my pocket or nearby for touch ups in the field. works with water or oil or saliva. so i use water and oil stones, no more grinders ever-except i do freehand on the belt sander for reshaping.

hey toots--this could go into le Cooks forum.

[longlegged]

Kinda like the best bike you have is the one you think of grabbing first before heading out the door, the same goes with sharpeners. The best sharpener is the one you reach for first and do so regularly to keep your knives sharp.

Thus far, I've had good experiences with my Spyderco Sharpmaker for kitchen knives and folding knives.

[WadePatton]

I've graduated a little bit from the EdgePro (only) school.

As i learned how to hone a straight razor free-hand (built-in guide) and bought a 30/60x loupe for REAL edge inspection, I've learned a lot more about cutting edges and the proper sharpening thereof.

Also the Japanese Knife Tech thread here got me cranked as to how easy it is to sharpen a single bevel knife.

SO I now have a set of Norton Waterstones, combo 220/1000, 4000/8000, and the flattening stone. Know that you're going to spend some time flattening brand new Norton Stones. Keeping them flat should be much less hassle.

And I have my Edge Pro. And I use both. Plus ceramics where applicable. It's all about the edge and getting there.

WISH i'd had a good flattening stone sooner.

the 8000 Norton is finer* than my amber Belgian (razor stone). So that my razors now shave better.

I don't strop with paste, just oiled leather (vintage). the edge is mirror-reflective off the 8000.

But that that's too fine for kitchen knives according to Norton.

*Interesting thing is that the "grits" don't line up. Still looking for a cross-ref, but the water-stone and natural stone grit numbers are not the same/same. So there can be some confusion there if you're like me and get caught up with numbers. Micron finish rating is probably the most universal way of reference stones, but not many are described that way. More study determined that the problem is different standards of different sorts of abrasives and that they vary by location.

here's a handy guide: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sh...rt-W21C60.aspx

Also, there are a lot of little kinks to using the Edge Pro most effectively. My advice, watch the videos and start with high-carbon knives in fair-to-better condition (as opposed to harder steels and major corrections). Then match the factory edge EVERY chance you get. Pay attention to stone wear, and avoid big corrections to heels and bevels if you want to prolong the flatness of your stones. Use marker and magnifier OFTEN to check actual contact--check/set contact with polish tape or finest stone. Use it some then look back at the videos.

And the coolest trick for the Edge Pro---is that the DMT 6x2 diamond plate fits into it and SHOULD be used for major corrections and also doubles as a stone flattener. It's available here (in single and double-sided), where i got my waterstone kit: Sharpening Supplies - Sharpen Your Knives and Tools With The Right Supplies

They have everything else too.

Single most important thing i've come to realize, until you turn a burr-you are not there. Edges can feel sharp before you get to that point. don't buy it. Get the burr, zero magnification necessary, polish it away. Tha's the edge.

Bevels is a whole discussion in itself.

...OHMY! my high-carbon Deda came in the mail today...i gotta get some fishes.