TIG torch cable covering

[false_aesthetic]

New larger shop (2000 sq ft --> 3600 sq ft) and layout means that I got to buy a new TIG machine (ESAB) + air-cooled torch.

The Syncrowave 300 is moving to the far end of the shop where we'll be doing larger fab work and will stay put there since it's a mofo of a beast! We have 25' leads + leather cable covers for them. The ESAB will stay put under my bench and is basically dedicated to bikes + small assembly stuff.

Here's my dilemma: I want to protect the super-flexy cable but I don't want to throw on one of those standard cable covers -- leather seems overkill and those nylon-zippered ones seem lame.

Any reason I shouldn't use something like this: Flexo Gorilla Sleeve - For High Abrasion Resistance - WireCare.com

[VertigoCycles]

I've always used tubular webbing from when I used to climb. It's enough to keep the chips out. I've had it on my superflex hose for about 12 years now.

[false_aesthetic]

Oh man, I like your solution better than mine.

Are you choosing a diameter that's close to your hose or are you sizing up + keeping it baggy?

[VertigoCycles]

Oh man, I like your solution better than mine.

Are you choosing a diameter that's close to your hose or are you sizing up + keeping it baggy?

I had 1" webbing in my rope bag and it fit so that's what I used.

FWIW, my shop is small and when I built my welding station, I welded some arms and bungs to the open side so I can coil and store the hose, ground cable and pedal so they stay off the ground during machining projects. I generally sweep up before welding again but don't always do a great job. If your welding setup and machining setup are near one another and you're the type to sweep up only when you're wading through chips, leather is probably better.

[edoz]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. Every shop I've ever worked in uses the nylon zipper covers and they work fine.
I'm talking about some seriously rough environments, too.

[abbeyQ]

I'll second Eric, I've worked in some heavy industry where thin material is 1/2", constantly dragging leads in and out of shells, over sharp edges pretty gnarly heavy work. The zippered nylon covers hold up just fine and it's what we run on our dynasty. Although if it's just for frame building and it's not getting dragged around all over the place you could run no cover and likely get many years out of your power cord.

[fortyfour]

@false_aesthetic: Like some have mentioned above, if the torch is going to be dragged up, over, through etc. harsh, sharp and really dirty environments, then the nylon or leather covers are your best bet. But if it's in a clean space where you want to simply protect the super flex cable from wear / dirt, a simple solution like Sean from Vertigo suggests (1" tubular webbing) is a really affordable and simple option. I tend to keep my shop pretty clean and Sean's suggestion has been holding up just fine for the 7 years I've had it over my super flex cable now. It's more to keep the cable clean but also the cable is a woven so it will pick up chips and become worn easily. For welding bicycle frames, I've found having the lightest most flexible set up to be the best solution. The less weight on your wrist the better and those larger leather/nylon covers do tend to feel cumbersome to me after a long days worth of welding (I tend to hold the torch by the cup and not by the handle though - so there's more weight resting on my wrist FYI).

I used a small zip tie at the end of my 1" tubular webbing to keep the cover relatively close to the torch handle and prevent it from sliding down (which it had been doing over time). Works well. I think anything over 1" may tend to slide more easily. It took some time/patience to pull the lead through the webbing however.

[false_aesthetic]

Thanks Kris.

I think you identified exactly what I was getting at. I've gotten used to wrapping the cables around my forearm for some help balancing the weight but after using (and buying) a CK-130 I want to make sure to keep things flexible + lightweight.

[fortyfour]

Thanks Kris.

I think you identified exactly what I was getting at. I've gotten used to wrapping the cables around my forearm for some help balancing the weight but after using (and buying) a CK-130 I want to make sure to keep things flexible + lightweight.

Do you sit, stand (or both) to weld? Typically when sitting to weld, I'll lay a loop across my lap which drastically reduces the weight at the handle end of the torch. Likewise while standing to weld, I'll wrap a loop of the cable over my forearm. Unweighting the torch I've found helps me to maintain distance between work and tungsten as well as maintain the angle of the torch in relation to the work.

[false_aesthetic]

Sitting I do the same. When standing I end up pulling the cable from behind and then over my shoulder.

....No problem there except for the occasional jolt from my pacemaker.

[VertigoCycles]

Thanks Kris.

I think you identified exactly what I was getting at. I've gotten used to wrapping the cables around my forearm for some help balancing the weight but after using (and buying) a CK-130 I want to make sure to keep things flexible + lightweight.

oof...those CK torches are plenty nice, but they're so long. I can see if you're welding aluminum and hold the torch way back on the handle that they're pretty nice, but the WeldTec torches are generally about an inch shorter which helps maneuverability overall no matter how you sling the cable. I shortened the pipes on my CK H2O cooled torch by about 40mm and re-brazed the barbed fittings just because I hated the weight of the hose, even with it wrapped around my arm.

[false_aesthetic]

Hmm. I'll have to seek out a WeldTec and try one out.

I get the feeling that the upgrade to the CK-130 will be the last upgrade I need for a while -- I'd like to blame my TIG inconsistencies on my tools but I get the feeling it's more about developing more muscle memory. As a pro shop once said, "At least you can't blame the equipment anymore."