Talk to me about sewing machines

[caleb]

My wife and I need to get a sewing machine. We find ourselves going to the tailor for basic stuff like hemming pants, or throwing clothing that should be repaired.

I'd like to get a machine that could handle heavy jobs (tarps, backpacks, tents, etcetera).

Do you have any recommendations? I know nothing about sewing machines beyond having used my mother's 1950's era electric one when I was a kid.

I found a couple Singer Treadles for sale locally, and I'm attracted to the model mainly because I think it looks nice. Is it a good machine for the occasional use I've described?



Any other recommendations or things I should know?

[AJPM44]

My wife uses a janome for her side gig making baby/kid shoes. Seems like it is pretty good. I used it to stitch leather, so I would imagine backpacks and others would be fine for it. As far as the singer, I bet it works greats, but the janome has about 30 or so stitches that it can do, plus reverse, multiple speeds and lots of other things that I don't even know about.

[maunahaole]

Talk to xjoex. He knows sewing machines.

[Mabouya]

I'd wager that there's at least one Singer machine forum out there.

I'd start here: My Sewing Machine Addiction: Information Sources

[Peter Polack]

I have a cousin that taught sewing at the middle school level for 30+ years. When I was in the market for a sewing machine for making repairs to my cycling clothing, etc., I asked her to hook me up.

She took me to a store that specialized in sewing machines. The experience was the difference between buying a bicycle at Dick's Sporting Goods vs. at your local bike shop. The staff was professional, knew their stuff, and steered me toward a machine that met my needs and skill level. If you have a specialty shop in your area, definitely go there.

I told her I wanted a good basic machine that was bulletproof. She swore on the Janome brand, because the kids can really be brutal on them but they keep on stitching, and she had to keep 30 of them up and running. I bought a DC 3018 which cost $400 in 2004. I've repaired neoprene cycling booties after the toes wear out by sewing leather patches on the bottom. 2 layers of leather; no problem. A "free arm" is a nice feature for darning socks, over stitching holes in knees, etc. . The Janome has 18 programmed stitches which is more than I'll ever use. It's easy to thread, with a little graphic "map" you follow when loading the thread from the spool through the machine to the needle. Looking at their web site, I'd say the current comparable models are the DC2012 and DC2013 although they offer tons more stitches.

Some shops will sell refurbished machines at reduced prices.

Buy all the little accessories like the various presser feet, 2 dozen extra bobbins, something to organize and hold all the different threads and filled bobbins. Buy an assortment of needles; they come in various sizes and don't forget specialty needles such as for leather. All the little "notions" that sewers use-rulers, pencils, pins, and other gadgets; I bought one of those tool boxes that hold compartmented hardware with a clear top to stash the stuff in. I also bought a Sewing For Dummies book and a Sewing Essentials book by Singer. They're very handy references when you're trying to figure out how to replace a zipper, sew on a button, whatever. On the internet I've been able to learn how to sew pockets on shirts and even added a zippered internal pocket to the back of a cycling jacket which doubles as a self stuffing sack for the jacket.

[werksmini]

My girlfriend and I get into little projects here and there. Repairing clothes, making a Krampus costume for Halloween, creating knapsacks, etc. My biggest worry about the later was the machine being able to go through many layers including thick nylon strapping.

We originally had a shitty little $80 Singer from Target that could get basic jobs done. When using it for more complex or time-consuming projects it would eventually get out of line and start grabbing thread, making thudding noises, and leaving you with a rats next of thread on your item.

After selling that we found a Brother at a garage sale. It weighs 25-30 lbs (the previous perhaps 3 lbs) and has a solid steel frame which I think adds to its fantastic function. It cost us like 50-60 bucks. If your budget is $50-200 I would certainly go used. Anything new is going to infuriate you and not help the learning curve. Beyond that I would hop on Peter's recommendation.

[cody.wms]

For tailoring clothes, about anything will do. That being said, lots of "modern" machines are total pieces of shit. Harder to service, disposable parts, and even when you move up in price points, it seems you get more geegaws and not any more quality. A $1K machine is a $100 machine that has a million computerized functions you'll never use. For something cheap, look for a Singer 51. And please get something with a motor!

If you aim to do heavy stuff, you're best bet is to find a walking foot machine. You can do like I did and screw around with all kinds of stuff, but if you really want to work with heavy canvas just ship all those machines you'll break and go right for the good stuff. I spent way too long working with consumer machines, breaking them frequently, and having to design around my limitations. I bought a Singer 111 and don't have to worry about sewing anything now. Another bonus is that it is designed to be easily worked on. These things lived on the factory floor, where time IS money. If they can't be fixed quickly, no one is going to use them in any kind of industrial setting. I paid $550 for mine locally, with a clutch motor and table. That's about the going rate, but if you have to freight one it's gonna kill you. Call around to sewing machine service places (ones geared to industry, not consumers) and see if anyone keeps inventory on hand.

And also keep in mind what you can do consistently and what you can do occasionally. I threw lots of heavy stuff through my 51, but its not really advisable. With a more modern machine, it'll likely jump timing and be fucked.


This is the best thread on the Internet if you want to sew heavy fabrics (leather or otherwise).

[xjoex]

We have Sailrite machines, an american family owned company that sells every part for their machines and wants them to be serviceable at home. It can sew sail cloth and 1000 weight cordura without blinking an eye.



I really want a bar tack machine. That is my next purchase.

-Joe

[caleb]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I'll get something motorized.

My use will only be occasional, and I won't be sewing thick leather. A couple layers of nylon would be the maximum. Mostly, it'll be used on ordinary cloth - hemming pants, patching gear, maybe tailoring some shirts, etcetera.

I won't buy a cheap, new machine. Everything I've read in the links you guys provided above and elsewhere seems to indicate that there are lots of used machines out there that are still plenty functional.

I have a line on a gear-driven Singer 201-2 from a local guy who has been using it to make a couple boat covers. Anyone familiar with this model?

[cody.wms]

Not directly familiar with the 201, but looking around it seems to have once been a high end consumer unit. As long as the motor and wiring are ok, I bet it would do the trick. I'd want to sew with it first and make sure it is ok and the previous owner hasn't screwed it up somehow. People will probably tell you that it is an industrial machine, but it isn't. Great for the tailoring type work you're talking about. It's probably a good idea to get the 201 (for a good price) and if you start sewing thicker stuff regularly, keep in mind that an industrial machine will make your life easier.

Also, I should point out that people always think that sewing leather is harder than fabric. It's really not. With a tri-point needle, I find a given amount of leather easier to sew than the same amount of fabric. And sometimes you encounter more fabric thickness than you'd think on a project. Five layers of denim at a cuff, or three at a flat fell seam. On my messenger bags, the bottom of the front pockets goes through six layers of 1000D cordura, while most of it is only a single layer (plus liner) thick.

[cody.wms]

Another area to check on the machine is the needle bar. Grab where the needle attaches and se how much play is in it. You want it to be pretty tight. If it is loose, I wouldn't bother with the machine. It'll cost you too much to fix to be worth it.

[Gattonero]

Since I've 3 machines in the house, I'll throw my 2c in this old thread.

If anyone is thinking to buy a 2nd hand "consumer" sewing machine, I'd advise to check the gears under the rotary hook (that thing that you see under the plate where the needle goes). If that is worn, can be PITA to find, to repair, and to get the machine timed correctly.
Ask me how do I know!

Btw, one of my Singer 760 is working ok now, the other is held for spares, although could work well with a trip to a specialist.

The overlocker machine was a recent add, but that too needs to be seen by a specialist. The price paid was too good (<100) for the minor defect.
You can stitch LYCRA with that