SSF-6 silver rods

[Cliff]

Greetings to the Forum. I'm trying to read all I possibly can related to lugged frame construction before I attempt my first build. I have a lot of questions but I keep finding answers so I'm only going to ask one for now.

In my internet travels I ran across muggyweld.com and in particular their SSF-6 silver soldering rods (a misnomer I suspect because the working temperature of the material is over 1200* F). Their online video demos of the product are, of course, quite compelling (Steel Welding - Steel Repair | MuggyWeld.com) as to its utility in all sorts of applications, and the claimed strength is 70,000 PSI. Natural curiosity has me wondering whether this stuff is suitable for silver brazing a lugged chromoly bike frame. I'd be grateful for anyone's opinion or personal experience with it in a bike frame application.

Thanks,

Cliff
Raleigh, NC

[Eric Estlund]

In looking at their site, it looks like 56 with a flux coating. I would skip it, pick up some "standard" 56 from your local supplier of one of the frame building vendors and some paste flux.

Lots of stuff "can" work, but the "standard" stuff is standard because it works well and repeatably.

[Jonathan]

Eric as usual has it down. I prefer to call Wade at Cycledesign. Besides having exactly what you need, he can answer your general questions.

[Cliff]

In looking at their site, it looks like 56 with a flux coating. I would skip it, pick up some "standard" 56 from your local supplier of one of the frame building vendors and some paste flux.

Lots of stuff "can" work, but the "standard" stuff is standard because it works well and repeatably.

Thanks for your reply, Eric. My plan has been to do exactly as you have suggested, but I thought I would solicit some expert opinions before I blew it off completely. You've validated what I suspected.

Thanks again,

Cliff

[afwalker]

Wade has been most helpful to me as I learned how to braze stainless steel. Slightly different technique needed, he helped me though.
I love the filet pro, and the system 48. When I was first struggling to get stainless bosses to braze on I sent him some photos and just look at the detailed response I got!
"Hi Andy,

The issue is likely to be both your cleaning procedure, and torch technique.

Stainless Steel develops a thin, high temperature chromium oxide layer
on its surface. This layer prevents the filler from flowing.
It needs to be removed by physical means. Usually it is sanded off.
after the surface is mechanically abraded, it needs to be re-cleaned.
An alcohol, or acetone wipe usually works well.
Brazing should take place within a short time of cleaning, less than
an hour would be preferable. Clean both the inside and outside of the
braze area as best as possible.
Flux should be allowed to stay on the surface for a few minutes, to
allow it to chemically remove any remaining oxides.

The next problem is the shape of the boss. It sticks out. Any time
you have a surface that sticks out, it catches the heat of the flame.
Keep the tip of your torch so the heat angles away from the boss, not
towards it as would seen sensible.
With a neutral flame (not oxidizing, it will ruin everything), heat
the area around the boss. Stainless dissipates heat faster than
steel, so it takes a bit more heat.
More heat requires a larger tip, or flame, and not moving the torch in closer.

The flux has 5 stages- paste, fluffy, fluffy with dark speckles,
globby liquid, thin liquid. You are up to temperature when the flux
changes from globby liquid to thin liquid.
At this point the stainless should just start to develop a red tint.
To dark a red tint, and everything will burn. Once the flux goes
thin, place your filler on the intersection between the tube and boss.
Flick the flame onto the silver, and it should melt and flow around
the joint. You may need to quickly move the flame around the boss to
get silver flow and penetration all of the way around.


So in general, you are overheating the boss, when the tube is not yet
recepitive to the silver. Clean everything well, check your flame,
and heat the area around the braze first.

Brazing stainless is difficult, but not impossible.
You can get some inexpensive practice materials at the hardware store.
A few nuts and bolts are great to practice with.

Let me know how everything goes, and don't hesitate to send more
photos, or call.

Thanks,
Wade"

Wow! and this is from just an email question. What service is that! I recommend Cycle Design for your brazing needs.
cheers
andy walker

[Cliff]

Thanks, Andy, for referring me to Cycle Design. Others have done the same, and I'll definitely be trying their filler and flux products.

Cliff

[steve garro]

Aufhauser- Brazing, Welding, Soldering & Metallizing Filler Metals
Go Mental!
- Garro.