Hooded dropout question

[Erasmus]

I picked up these hooded dropouts from Nova and am planning a build with them, however I can't seem to make sense of what these little tabs are for on the CS face of the hood. The CS doesn't seem to mate nicely on sitting on top of it, nor does it seem like it would slip into the CS. It appears to me that none of the PMW hoods have this. Can someone shed some light to me on what the purpose of these tabs are?

2013-04-25 10.50.59.jpg

[Amaro Bikes]

That's ok, I guess those are the original Breeze ones.

Depending on the cs diameter it would fit inside of the mitered chainstay and give some more surface in case you braze it. With my chainstays do usually go fine and do not disturb. But if they don't fit with your chainstays or simply you don't like it just take the files and let them go, it will last not even a minute before you got perfectly roud dropout and nothing happened here! ;)

Cheers

[Will Neide]

I have those dropouts and I filed them off.

[EricKeller]

plugged dropouts usually require some adjustment with a file. Better to have plugs that are too big than too small

[Erasmus]

Thanks for the replies. I figured they were a fashion of plug, but wasn't certain. I'm tigging them, so ill probably just file them off.

[Eric Estlund]

Also provides handy dandy indexing to help insure the drops are clocked to the same position relative to the stays.

[Rosko]

You can ditch the big'un and use the little nub to index. Easy.... BREEZY. (sorry I couldn't help myself)

[Jason Musgrave]

Also provides handy dandy indexing to help insure the drops are clocked to the same position relative to the stays.

^^ this

[progetto]

Also provides handy dandy indexing to help insure the drops are clocked to the same position relative to the stays.

This is why Mr Ferris has the best designed tools.

[flyingbalut]

Cool Joe Breeze the designer of them Breezer Dropouts told me to call them, "Wright Dropouts". I believe they were invented my the Wright Brothers? Told me, he got the idea while visiting the Smithsonian Institute Museum and was looking at some of the bicycles built by the Wright Brothers.

I file the tangs off. I've always tig weld those dropouts.

[Erasmus]

Thanks all for the input. I ended up filing them off and tig'ed them on. I have a keyed dummy axle to keep them in phase with each other, so I wasn't too worried about that. I am very much still learning to tig, so I think I got them too hot. I know it's hard to tell from pics, but do y'all think these are usable?

2013-04-29 13 resize.jpg

2013-04-29 13.01.10 reseize.jpg

[Amaro Bikes]

Well, as you said not easy just by pics, but even if they seem to be a bit overcooked around the puddle, I would also try to make a dressing pass (keeping as low amps as possible), so to make the bead geometry a bit mor uniform and "seamless", so even if you've already overcook them, at least you'll take away possible fatigue failure areas, try to avoid any "sharp" points or uneven portuberances.

Seeing it's been hot but the dropout hoods are "untouched" I assume it has happened just due to long-time/slow-speed, so I would recommend trying to go a bit higher on the amps and speeding up your travel speed, always using the dropout as a "bed" or strong half.

Also, if you're just practicing, good advice is trying to do first those weldings trying to place your hands over a flat surface, as this way you'll manage to control much better all variables in this tight/small places. Even you could go the way some big cats are doing, as Carl, who do first weld the chaintstay to the dropout, both alone (giving you great possibilities to place the pieces at best available position over a flat surface, etc), then once dropout and cs are one, you can then go for the tack to bb shell and end up the work.

As final question, I would even think of not enough gas coverage at some points? what are your gas flow figures, cup size, etc?

Anyway, just humble two cents of someone who still has loads of things to learn, so probably more experienced guys around here will manage to say much better advices

Cheers.

[Erasmus]

Aimar,
Thanks for the input. I actually did those welds on the table and just stuck them in the fixture to see how far out of whack they got after i welded them. Had the machine set at 42amps, 1/16th tungsten, gas lens, #8 cup, 15cfh, .035 filler. I think my biggest issue was working around such a small radius... I was having a hard time steadying my gorilla sized hands.