Bike 0001

[Craig Ryan]

OK....

Tubes are in hand. Thanks to RS on the quick quick quick shipping and also the RS ATMO goodies !!

Ends are marked RED...I have came to the assumtion that it denotes UP or FRONT depending on tube placement.
--- Go to the Columbus website and get the pdf for their tubesets. It's a good reference. UOS mimics the size and butts of SFL.
--- Find a flat surface and determine where any bow in is in the tubes. I place it in line with the bicycle.
Do I want to cut the needed section from the 'middle' of the tube, i.e. cutting equal amounts off each end to place the tube in the middle of the butts???
--- Put the painted end of the ST in the BB and cut off as little as possible. For the DT I put the longer butt at the head tube. I keep the ST balanced.
I would think (yikes) that the bulk of the ST would want to be left up top...and not remove any from the heavy end...only trim as needed for strength???
--- Leave an inch or so on the top of the ST until it's brazed up. I leave a centimeter on the top and bottom of the HT also. Cut them straight with a hack saw, or a big machine.
I've seen HT left long above and below the lugs....I guess this leaves a shoulder to braze against on the flat side (top and bottom of the HT)
Mark the tube centers with a straight edge...for alignment in the lugs...plus accesory items???
--- If you have no other way, a door frame will work for drawing a straight line on the tube. Use a sharpie.
Any other precautions...things to keep me from screaming OOOOH SHIT??
--- The only advise I can give is to fit it together stress free. I mean the tubes, not you. Good luck!

.....

[Luke]

Craig, thanks for the link to Columbus!

If I'm reading this page correctly:
TT paint goes to the headtube,
ST paint goes to the saddle,
DT paint goes to the headtube.

This would confirm my 'educated guess' from earlier. I want to be positive ya know.

I have an angle piece on the back of my jig that will be perfect for marking centerlines down the tubes.

I see clearly now, how once these things are pinned...and fit properly...they are very rigid.
I don't know why I was concerned with removing them from the jig prior to welding.
It clearly will work fine...now that I've touched/seen the material.
Luke

[Andrew R Stewart]

Luke- You might try to discover the butt transitions and confirm the painted ends. The simple way is to clean out the inside of the tube, hold it up to a light and look for the change in the light's reflectiveness along the tube's length. Place a spoke or rod in the tube and line up it's end with the light's point of change. This should be the butt transition. Mark the outside and compare with the tube's spec.

Even if all this does is to confirm the claimed spec that's good. This will give you confidence and understanding otherwise assumed. Most current tubing is well marked and published specs are pretty spot on. But every so often things are not what they seem...

One of the practices that is being lost in our time savings focused society is the handling of the material. In the medical world the time the Dr can spend touching you, the patient, directly relates to the relationship they have with you. It is the same with wrenching on bikes. A few minutes cleaning and "running of the hands" over the yet to be serviced bike can tell much to a trained mechanic.

Hold the tubes. Confirn their specs. Roll them to find their bowing high and low points. Slide a seat post in the ST prier to brazing. Look at their surface inside and out. Be one with the metal. (ok this step is a bit hookey). Andy.

[Luke]

Luke- You might try to discover the butt transitions and confirm the painted ends. The simple way is to clean out the inside of the tube, hold it up to a light and look for the change in the light's reflectiveness along the tube's length. Place a spoke or rod in the tube and line up it's end with the light's point of change. This should be the butt transition. Mark the outside and compare with the tube's spec.

Even if all this does is to confirm the claimed spec that's good. This will give you confidence and understanding otherwise assumed. Most current tubing is well marked and published specs are pretty spot on. But every so often things are not what they seem...

One of the practices that is being lost in our time savings focused society is the handling of the material. In the medical world the time the Dr can spend touching you, the patient, directly relates to the relationship they have with you. It is the same with wrenching on bikes. A few minutes cleaning and "running of the hands" over the yet to be serviced bike can tell much to a trained mechanic.

Hold the tubes. Confirn their specs. Roll them to find their bowing high and low points. Slide a seat post in the ST prier to brazing. Look at their surface inside and out. Be one with the metal. (ok this step is a bit hookey). Andy.

I did try to identify the butts...by looking into the light...maybe I was tired, maybe inexperienced...LOL

I do love touching metal...always have. I totally get the understanding of becoming one.
This project is as much ZEN as it is practical.

I could have easily opted to take my money and grab a frameset from one of our major brands...at employee pricing- but what fun would that be???
I long for the understanding of what the construction is all about.
It 'tis amazing.

And I've met some pretty cool cats hangin' 'round here.
I'm in.

Luke

[Will Outlaw]

I was amazed by how rigid things were the first time I got everything test fitted. I never really appreciated the design of a frame until that moment.

Have fun, take your time, have fun, ask questions, have fun, build cool shit, have fun.

[veryredbike]

Regarding checking the butts... it helps a lot if it is REALLY clean. I soaked a rag in acetone and ran it through each tube a number of times... till I got a little dizzy. I also used a flashlight to angle the light right where I wanted it.

Glad I did though, the butts on mine were as much as 50mm off in a few places.

[Luke]

Regarding checking the butts... it helps a lot if it is REALLY clean. I soaked a rag in acetone and ran it through each tube a number of times... till I got a little dizzy. I also used a flashlight to angle the light right where I wanted it.

I need to the clean the inside better, I clearly was not dizzy. ;)

[Jonathan]

Luke,

Tip: the best way to know what end of the seat tube to miter is to stick a proper post in it. It takes 3 seconds and never lies.

[Luke]

Tubes plus hacksaw...
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[Luke]

Becoming friends in the BB...
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[Luke]

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[Luke]

I taste the metal...it's like this flavor:


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[Luke]

A great morning in the shop...
TONS OF EFFING PICS on the way.
(Family time now, post pics later.)

I'm sure this is 'old hat' to most of you guys, but I dig the documentary aspect of BIKE 0001.

Enjoy the holiday.

OK, just a few now:
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[prolix21]

now you have me itching to start frame two

12-16 weeks until my stuff from Alex Meade is done! I'll be living vicariously through you for a while

[Luke]

More...
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[Luke]

More...
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[e-RICHIE]

Ya know - it's almost hard to believe you have never done this before (based on the pictures, at least...) atmo!

[Luke]

Still more...
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[Luke]

Ya know - it's almost hard to believe you have never done this before (based on the pictures, at least...) atmo!

That's a great compliment, RS !!!

I've always been fairly autodidactic...
and this is an adaptation of accumulated skills.
I'm having a blast and learning from the best!
None of this would be possible without you in particular...and the VS forum as a community.

As long as I don't take an effing by the torch...I'll be in good shape. Practice. ;)

I see a vision in the future of the art taking hold...many frames away...and being very good at this.
(Boy, am I an egotistical knave...)

Luke

[Luke]

TT at seat...3.514" from the plate
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TT at the head...3.514" from the plate
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ST at the BB...3.514" from the plate
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Ready to pin this bad bitch up...and go to my happy place- very satisfied with the alignment process at this point.