Bike 0001

[Eric Estlund]

Building (permanent) fixtures, especially frame size fixtures, is a skill in and of itself. I'd recommend trying to build a frame or two (or a bunch) without to see how that process works. It will better inform what you think you'll need it the fixture.

I'll also say that small irregularities in the first few frames are the norm, but having a small irregularity in your frame fixture will plague you for every bike you try to build on it.

You might be better served at this point with a flat reference point- even if it's just a surface ground piece of heavy channel.

[Luke]

My frame fixture...(pictures later tonight) is an unused automotive engine stand, with a newly fastened steel plate face.
I disassembled the stand and 'flipped' the legs around. Now the face plate angles slightly upwards, instead of downwards like it would with a small block Chevy hanging on it.
I bought a sheet of 1/4" plate steel and drilled out for the mounting holes.
The mount allows the jig to spin in a 360 degree rotation as needed.
I do have about an 1/16" deflection over the width of the piece.
I plan to clamp angle iron to the top and bottom to create a straight edge surface.
From here I'm going to project the frame outward off of the surface to allow working room.
After the geometry is layed out and the pieces attached, about 65% can be brazed.
Then by simply reversing the plate and all of the tightened fixture pieces, it can be finished up from the other side.
Who knows?? LOL
That's why it's BIKE 0001.
-Luke

[Luke]

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This cures erectile dysfunction...fresh blue steel....mmmmm
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The old engine stand...a donor for the frame jig.
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Lay out for the mounting plate.

[Luke]

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Attched to the frame...
(which I added 90lbs. of iron weights as a counterbalance just in case she was top heavy)
No issues there at all, VERY VERY stable.
The caster wheels make it nice to move around!
(Roll it out of the way so that I don't bust my skull on a corner when I'm taking off my cycling shoes.)
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The basic finished frame easel.
(Perfect height for stool work)
This beast is about 125 lbs assembled...maybe more.

[Luke]

Laying out angles with a square and level.
You can calculate the X-Y and clamp the level and square together.
(Much more accurate than a plastic protractor, and cheaper than a laser bubble)
Half degrees are not a problem.
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[Luke]

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I love metal...smoldering tap oil...mmmm

[veryredbike]

I'm going to enjoy watching your first build. I'm on my first as well. I've been practicing brazed joints and starting and starting over for a while now. Just starting to feel confident to start the actual triangle this weekend.

If you're interested, take a look at curmudgeonbicycles.com. I wouldn't use any of it for instruction, as I'm (as the kids say) a total newb. That being said, you might find some good mistakes to work with.

I've been posting over at bikeforums... maybe I'll toss some stuff up here too.

[veryredbike]

I'm going to enjoy watching your first build. I'm on my first as well. I've been practicing brazed joints and starting and starting over for a while now. Just starting to feel confident to start the actual triangle this weekend.

If you're interested, take a look at curmudgeonbicycles.com. I wouldn't use any of it for instruction, as I'm (as the kids say) a total newb. That being said, you might find some good mistakes to avoid ;-)

I've been posting over at bikeforums... maybe I'll toss some stuff up here too.

[Luke]

Here are my 'Frame Lollipops' for anchoring, and more importantly, centering and aligning my tubes...
They allow me to fasten and adjust as I go...my goal is to keep as straight as can be. Duh?
(Less margin of error, the better.)
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[Luke]

Here is the breakdown of parts, as one is being assembled.
These are nothng fancy, but should serve me well.
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Blocks bored, then cut in half...(numbered of course prior to 'halving')
One side shouldered for the bolt to pass, the other side tapped.

[Luke]

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The center hole is squared off to accept the carriage bolt...
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[Luke]

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With the bolts independant of each other, it allows for micro-tuning of the tube position.
Acting as a castor and camber of sorts.
(Here is one cranked way to one side.)
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[Luke]

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These attach directly to the plate steel along the geometry and fine tune with the double nuts for in/out centering.

[Luke]

...and a tool shot...a close up of my now antique Dayton Benchgrinder.
I have her mounted on a stand made from a dumptruck brake drum.
(Another heavy duty P.O.S.) You have to roll it like cylinder...you don't drag it anywhere.
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...and a few old files standing upright in old welding rod tins...
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But, Honey Badger don't care...he really don't give a shit! LOL

-Luke

[Luke]

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Thanks RS! ATMO

[Luke]

I know Richard has a million pics of these lugs on net, but the world needs a few more.
I 'm like a kid...unwrapping and caring for my new babies. Jeeez.
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The beauty of the lug...Damn, I must be sick.
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[Eric Estlund]

Glad to see the enthusiasm!

"Internet frame building" tip #75684- press this button:

macro.jpg

[prolix21]

I'm about 90% done with my first frame (fillet brazed). One thing I would highly suggest is drafting out a full scale drawing of your frame. I can't tell you how many times I went back and used that drawing for sizing or even just double checking things throughout the process and taking notes. I messed around a lot with CAD drawings of the bike before it and I didn't really get a full picture of some of the potential problems until I drew it out full-scale.

[Luke]

I'm about 90% done with my first frame (fillet brazed). One thing I would highly suggest is drafting out a full scale drawing of your frame. I can't tell you how many times I went back and used that drawing for sizing or even just double checking things throughout the process and taking notes. I messed around a lot with CAD drawings of the bike before it and I didn't really get a full picture of some of the potential problems until I drew it out full-scale.

I agree with that totally...
I've just drawn it out onto my frame jig plate full scale.
(Pictures didnt turn out so well)
I've done it on paper, but now it's full size.
Having the lugs in hand for the final drawing helped too.

Good luck with yours Prolix!
Luke

[Luke]

Ok...no pics tonight,
Only a few questions:

#1 question for tonight...for the lugframe builders out there.
I would like to know what everyone's process is for preparing lugs.
I understand the clean up, sand and file.
Should I backfile my shorelines?
What grade of paper is best?
What are some options for holding the lugs while working?
Etc.etc.
I know that I don't need to take them smooth like polishing, but is 500 grit going to far?
Just emory cloth OK?

School me, O brothers of Tube!
Thanks in advance....
Luke