Dress Shirts

[Bittersweet]

Go see Carl:
CEGO Custom Shirtmaker March 2012

[zetroc]

Old thread, but has anyone had experience with tailors (or recommendations on other shirts) in the Bay Area? PIERRE SUPPLY doesn't have any shirts yet and since I can't wear one of those, I figure I should look less slovenly in Denver.

[maunahaole]

Old thread, but has anyone had experience with tailors (or recommendations on other shirts) in the Bay Area? PIERRE SUPPLY doesn't have any shirts yet and since I can't wear one of those, I figure I should look less slovenly in Denver.

You'd better be looking sharp. Otherwise chasea will be quite cross with you. Also, you do not want to be mistaken for Gary Fisher.

[RickM]

Old thread, but has anyone had experience with tailors (or recommendations on other shirts) in the Bay Area? PIERRE SUPPLY doesn't have any shirts yet and since I can't wear one of those, I figure I should look less slovenly in Denver.

Wilkes Bashford

Been buying there since the mid-70's, when I was so poor, I lived the ethos of 1 good item is better then 5 mediocore ones.

[maunahaole]

Willie Brown rocks Wilkes Bashford and that dude always looks sharp.

[TomW]

Query - I am guessing people here prefer the whole cuff link style etc?

I get my shirts done custom (as it is far more accessible price wise in Hong Kong) but have got rid of various traditional elements as they are a damn nuisance when working at a desk. So single button cuffs (horn of course), no pocket, slim cuff.

Does anyone wear cuffs and have to work at a computer/ write all day? A damn nuisance...

If visiting London I can suggest a Saville Row option but you are looking at circa USD 200-300 for one shirt. Hong Kong is roughly 100.

[nahtnoj]

Query - I am guessing people here prefer the whole cuff link style etc?

I get my shirts done custom (as it is far more accessible price wise in Hong Kong) but have got rid of various traditional elements as they are a damn nuisance when working at a desk. So single button cuffs (horn of course), no pocket, slim cuff.

Does anyone wear cuffs and have to work at a computer/ write all day? A damn nuisance...

If visiting London I can suggest a Saville Row option but you are looking at circa USD 200-300 for one shirt. Hong Kong is roughly 100.

Unless you wear a suit jacket all day, and never take it off, cuff links are a sure fire way to look like an unmitigated douche bag.

[TomW]

Unless you wear a suit jacket all day, and never take it off, cuff links are a sure fire way to look like an unmitigated douche bag.

Hah! I kind of agree but also find them damn impractical. I wear a suit all day but the jacket sits on the back of the chair for much of it.

I suspect some here will disagree...

I've started wearing more three pieces to look smart whilst at the desk and wander around the office whilst the jacket is on the back of the chair. Think it is a good half way house.

[jonathanb]

Opinion of a former dress shirt professional (really): a dress shirt is defined 90% by its fabric. Choosing a fine fabric almost always yields a fine dress shirt. Unless one screws it up by mucking around with the remaining 10% of details. When in doubt, keep the details simple. If you can't figure the specific advantage that a design function affords, just skip it.

(And, IMNSHO, cuff links belong only on formal shirts.)

In other words, don't be the guy with the "faster-backwards" shirt.

[christian]

Barrel cuffs, always. I think it's ok (but just) to sit in your office in shirtsleeves, but I'd no sooner walk around the office without my jacket than I'd walk around without my shoes.

[TomW]

Barrel cuffs, always. I think it's ok (but just) to sit in your office in shirtsleeves, but I'd no sooner walk around the office without my jacket than I'd walk around without my shoes.

Christian - glad to hear I am on the right side with barrel cuffs. And I agree with you re jacket on trips for coffee/ loo etc. However, one of the great shocks of working in Asia is that people wear plastic slippers in the office... You would be horrified.

I don't partake of this fashion.

[brunop]

buuton-down or spread collar?
in general.

[Britishbane]

buuton-down or spread collar?
in general.

Generally, do you wear a tie? If yes, then spread (none of this stupid super wide stuff for me). If not, button.

[christian]

You live in America so wear a button-down or point or medium spread/ainsley collar. Never anything more spread than that.

Medium spread is slightly more formal than button-down, but either can work in a business setting if your other attire is appropriate. I wear a button down 90% of the time, but I'm always in a gray or blue suit.

My preference on button-downs is a lot of tie-space. Kamakura do the best reasonably-prices oxford cloth button down these days. I still go to BB for my medium spread pinpoints.

[Bobonli]

Kamakura do the best reasonably-prices oxford cloth button down these days. I still go to BB for my medium spread pinpoints.

Hadn't heard of Kamakura. Nice find. Prices look comparable to BB. I've grown frustrated with BB. I have two shirts, same exact label and size and one is clearly an inch shorter in the sleeves.

Have you used their online? ....or is a trip to the shop required to identify proper size?

[Wisco]

Collar spread and tie width should not be determined by fashion, rather the shape of your face/head and body proportions. If you're tall and with a long thin face, a spread collar is appropriate because it balances visual proportions. If you have a round face and round body, a straighter point collar provides balance. Skinny hipster only works if you're a skinny hipster, and that will be dated any day now.

Traditional men's tailored clothing is traditional because it works and has worked for a long time. Google Alan Flusser for some great basic advice.

jonathanb is correct that fabric choices can make a shirt and also contribute a significant portion to the price. Crappy fit and construction however will not rescue a great fabric.

You live in America so wear a button-down or point or medium spread/ainsley collar. Never anything more spread than that.

Medium spread is slightly more formal than button-down, but either can work in a business setting if your other attire is appropriate. I wear a button down 90% of the time, but I'm always in a gray or blue suit.

My preference on button-downs is a lot of tie-space. Kamakura do the best reasonably-prices oxford cloth button down these days. I still go to BB for my medium spread pinpoints.

[christian]

I have not. They're across the street from my office, so I just walk over there. The Tokyo slim fit is really really really slim, slimmer than BB extra slim. Tokyo regular fit is like BB slim fit. But largely, I would say they are true to size. But they're definitely not Mercer or BB regular-fit shaped.

[lukasz]

Aw shucks, their 15" only goes to 33" sleeve. Thought I had another slim cut dress shirt option.

Trying to replace some damaged shirts in the closet I tried on a few extra slim cut at Brooks Brothers this week. Holy crap they do 15" 34-35! And their "sport" shirts in an extra slim small are the same cut. They're the only off the shelf button down shirts I've found which fit except for my go-to Express slim fit with funky stretchy material but who cares they're cheap and the cut works. Places like Tyrwhitt only go down to 15-33 as well.

Thinking about trying a mail-order made to measure outfit but not sure where to start.

[Noteddy]

Aw shucks, their 15" only goes to 33" sleeve. Thought I had another slim cut dress shirt option.
Places like Tyrwhitt only go down to 15-33 as well.

Exactly my problem. Paul Fredrick does 15-34 and 15-35 in slim fit. Not top shelf, but off the shelf and I've had good luck with them as a reasonably priced day-to-day option.

[christian]

Thinking about trying a mail-order made to measure outfit but not sure where to start.

You can mail yourself to CEGO I guess, but it's probably easier to ride your bike there. 246 5th Ave. #200. Get Carl to make you two cheap dress shirts first - the first ones may need a bit of tweaking because some if his seamstresses like to make the cuffs a bit looser than necessary. From there on out, they're perfect every time.

I'm lucky that an extra slim 15.5-34 Brooks is very nearly perfect, but Carl's shirts are very good.