Suit buying advice from a butler.

[jasond]

I have opinions.

As a general rule, cuffs are correct on patterned suit pants, but not on solid.

I always though the cuff was dependent on your height?

[Ben]

I always though the cuff was dependent on your height?

Huh. Google suggests I'm alone in my opinion. Which makes me all the more committed to it.

I do know that you're not supposed to cuff tuxedo pants, and maybe I extrapolated that rule out.

I've never heard the height-dependent rule, but I've been the same height for all of my suit-buying life, so it probably never came up.

[jasond]

Huh. Google suggests I'm alone in my opinion. Which makes me all the more committed to it.

I do know that you're not supposed to cuff tuxedo pants, and maybe I extrapolated that rule out.

I've never heard the height-dependent rule, but I've been the same height for all of my suit-buying life, so it probably never came up.

I heard it in some random spot. Someone was claiming cuffs make you look shorter and straight leg makes you look taller. I personally will wear either and I'm by no means tall.

[davids]

I disagree here. I think a suit should say something. It should say "This man knows how to wear a suit. This man looks comfortable in his suit."

I couldn't agree more. I've stuck with custom-made from a HK tailor for years now. A well-made, properly fit suit is like a second skin.

[lavi]

I couldn't agree more. I've stuck with custom-made from a HK tailor for years now. A well-made, properly fit suit is like a second skin.

One day, I'll try a custom made suit. None of mine have ever really fit me in a way that felt dreamy.

[Too Tall]

Davids, if you can't "shoot" your cuffs than the shirt sleeves are too short ;) Be the mobster. I really prefer an generous cuff.

[steve575]

Chase, what do you think about t shirts under the dress shirt. i've seen many young people doing this and I think it looks pretty amateur. It's often done with a billowg dress shirt.

[chasea]

Chase, what do you think about t shirts under the dress shirt. i've seen many young people doing this and I think it looks pretty amateur. It's often done with a billowg dress shirt.

Hate it. HATE IT. I suggest having your dress shirts laundered, rather than dry cleaned. Much more comfortable and the undershirt won't be necessary. But people do whatever makes them the most comfortable. If someone insists on wearing an undershirt (usually because of perspiration), I would steer them toward a light heather grey. It won't show through your shirt as much as a white undershirt will.

If sweat is really that much of an issue, though, you can buy pharmacy-strength antiperspirant and apply at it night before going to bed. It really does work.

[steve575]

Thanks, I'm enjoying this thread. I don't wear suits that often, but when I do I like to look right.
Like Tim said earlier, I don't think I could wear a button down collar with a suit. It may be becoming acceptable, but I'm not into it.

[Blue Jays]

Businessmen wearing a shirt, tie, and jacket without a nice clean undershirt beneath is pretty gross.
Undershirts keep a person cooler and allow garments to slide easily without binding against the skin.

[chasea]

One of these days I'm going to understand the rules of clothing that "business men" seem to go by. The ones I've dealt with dress like everyone else. As well as most heads of state.

I've gotten most of them out of bed, showered, shaved, and out the door in 15 minutes flat.

[davids]

Davids, if you can't "shoot" your cuffs than the shirt sleeves are too short ;) Be the mobster. I really prefer an generous cuff.

Fuck yeah. Jewish Mafia.

[DCT]

you guys are inspiring me. im wearing a blazer to nahbs. vsalon is top notch imho

[csbmo]

Hate it. HATE IT. I suggest having your dress shirts laundered, rather than dry cleaned. Much more comfortable and the undershirt won't be necessary. But people do whatever makes them the most comfortable. .....

fck yeah.

moments ago i was trying on a new shirt with old jacket sans undershirt....sa'weet.
the shirt is the tits.
i'm a new man.

try one on for yourself:
home

[chasea]

One of these days I'm going to understand the rules of clothing that "business men" seem to go by. The ones I've dealt with dress like everyone else. As well as most heads of state.

I've gotten most of them out of bed, showered, shaved, and out the door in 15 minutes flat.

This came off as catty. Meow, Blue Jays (kitty speak for "I'm sowwy").

What I meant to say is that a visible undershirt does not belong in the boardroom. Then again, neither do one's nipples. Again, a heather grey undershirt is a good option here.

Friends?

[chasea]

Fuck yeah. Jewish Mafia.

Watch it. My grandmother's first cousin was Bugsy Siegel. AFIK, my only family member who has been assassinated.

[Blue Jays]

"...This came off as catty. Meow, Blue Jays (kitty speak for "I'm sowwy").
What I meant to say is that a visible undershirt does not belong in the boardroom.
Then again, neither do one's nipples. Again, a heather grey undershirt is a good option here.

Friends?..."

No worries and no harm done, my friend. I attributed the strong response to a rough day.
A form-fitting undershirt simultaneously prevents visible chest hair from poking between the shirt button placket.

[chasea]

While I'm on a roll (or not), I figured this would be a good time to post about shoulder shapes. There are three common styles.

Italian suits tend to have high cut armholes and concave shoulders.


English shoulders are level and boxy.


American suits tend to have the least amount of form and slope downwards toward the armhole.

[davids]

Watch it. My grandmother's first cousin was Bugsy Siegel. AFIK, my only family member who has been assassinated.

My wife's granddad was somewhere in the Cleveland hierarchy. Only photo we have of him is at her parents' wedding. Fat bald guy wearing very dark glasses. Not smiling. And then there's her great-uncle from Philly who always had flats of candy bars in the garage. Nuchem. He was a blast at the cousin's weddings back in the '80s.

My side of the family? Tailors, accountants and physicists.

[boundgear]

I've never found a jacket to fit my beefy armholes in just that way. Italian looks english, and english looks rugby on me.
Someday I'll buy bespoke, and a tailor will bend the laws of physics for me.

Also, for fitted shirts, I can't beat the price for nordstrom's in house brand. They're not head-of-state good, but they'll do.