Sprinting: skipping wheel

[suspectdevice]

Mickey~Interesting , this setup below is what I find comfy. Does something look out of whack ?

It ain't too pretty. See how far your hands are from the front axle? Think of it this way, your center of gravity is way too forward than it should be. Get some big proper belgian bars, like the PRO ones(thor?), put the hoods high enough that you have a proper hook for your hand when your on the tops. As long as you don't hit your forearms too much on the tops, the entry angle to the drops and your lower elbows is going to move some weight back/down. Swapping the bars might necessitate a longer stem, get a -6 while you are at it.
Newton doesn't like ergo bars.

[TJ]

Mickey~ the stem is a 120 -17*. So you sayin longer stem but on 6*?

[palincss]

my method is to sprint for signs and trees in the smallest gear i can possibly max out while standing.
mebbe a 39-16 or similar.
at first it's incredibly awkward.
after a while it's the best part of the ride.
mebbe 15-20 per day, none more than 100 meters.
all done after getting past 18mph or so as a way to jump start the wind up.
it sure makes real sprinting using real gears a whole lot easier atmo.

Is this vaguely similar to riding fixed gear to develop a smooth high cadence?

[e-RICHIE]

Is this vaguely similar to riding fixed gear to develop a smooth high cadence?

not really.
the OP was about sprinting out of the saddle.

sprinting is an amalgam of violence and ballet. the TJ cat needs to find a way to keep
the wheel on the road. my drill will help because i don't think it's all intuitive to him atmo.

[mike p]

Is this closer to what your saying?

Mike

[TJ]

Is this closer to what your saying?

Mike

Not sure if that's what he's sayin but it looks like you stole one of my bikes!

[mike p]

Not sure what size your's is? This is a 58 just starting to set it up. I think I need to level the bottom of the bars a bit more?

Mike

Not sure if that's what he's sayin but it looks like you stole one of my bikes!

[swoop]

stop worrying about your gay bars and stuff and go work on your sprinting like richie sez.
these are all different skillsets....

find a local pro type that gets it done in sprints and do lead outs and sprints together.

my buddy and i used to do them down kannan dume... so the hill itself would put the lead out man at about 45 miles an hour... and you'd have to spin out at a freaky high speed and cadence to come around. nothing smoothes you out like the possibility of dying for not being right on the thing.


or i'd have harm sit on my wheel at the local trainigng rides with sprints and have him tel me what i was doing wrong.
use your local resources.

its not your ugly bars.

*for reference... please know i suck on the thing.

[TJ]

Mines a 58 as well. Only thing different from the pic below is a setback seatpost.


they are pretty dang nice bikes. I'm sure you will enjoy yours.

[e-RICHIE]

Mines a 58 as well. Only thing different from the pic below is a setback seatpost.


they are pretty dang nice bikes. I'm sure you will enjoy yours.

i would sell you a bigger bicycle atmo.

[TJ]

i would sell you a bigger bicycle atmo.

Really? What do you base that on? I'm curious because the one bike I have is a 60. I feel comfy on it but have had several vet riders say that bike is to big.
I look forward to your response.



*note* when I ask what you base that on I understand you have forgot more about bikes than I know. That's why I ask.

[e-RICHIE]

Really? What do you base that on? I'm curious because the one bike I have is a 60. I feel comfy on it but have had several vet riders say that bike is to big.
I look forward to your response.



*note* when I ask what you base that on I understand you have forgot more about bikes than I know. That's why I ask.

???
there's huuuuuuuuge amount of seat post showing that its length is needed to get your saddle height.
your hands are in front of the hub axle.
that suggests that the frame is too short.
the drop seems severe to me atmo.

no science used in my conclusions, only a glance at the set up in the pic.

[TJ]

???
there's huuuuuuuuge amount of seat post showing that its length is needed to get your saddle height.
your hands are in front of the hub axle.
that suggests that the frame is too short.
the drop seems severe to me atmo.

no science used in my conclusions, only a glance at the set up in the pic.

With that being said here is the 60



opinion?

[GrantM]

There are some wacky things going on with the way some folks position their levers on the handlebars these days.
How much of it is random, or how much is on purpose is really impossible to tell from a photograph.
Given the fact your two bikes have completely different shape bars, set up at totally different angles...
with the levers mounted in different positions on the bar....i'm guessing there is something random going on.

First rule, is the tips of the brake levers should not be below the "line" of the drops.
the levers on your fuji are really really low on the bar, which is rotated up. The reason not to do that
combination of set up iis two-fold, because it rotates the hoods down and makes a strange wrist angle,
and second it makes an awkward transition from the handlebar to the hood.
It could also mess with the reach to the brake lever from the drops position.

Look at Flux's bikes, they're always set up perfectly. The "transition" from the handlebar to the hood should
be level, to slightly up, not down as it is on your hoods. The "drop" of the bar shouldn't be too far up or down.
This colnago has a nice balanced set up for a semi-ergo bar. For a round bend, just look at any of Flux's bikes.

The different angles and mounting position of the hoods can be greater than the difference between two size frames.
Rotating the hoods up will shorten reach, and decrease drop. I've moved clients levers by more than 4 cm's for
example. Compared to that, the 1 or 2 cm's difference in frame size is nuttin' !

-g

click for larger versions

[TJ]

A little follow up. For the last 3 weeks or so I have been doin 10/15 sprints (100 meters or so) in a 39/16. At first it was uuuggglly. It has gotten better, and as such my sprints in a real gear have started to smooth out. Thanks for all the advice.

[e-RICHIE]

A little follow up. For the last 3 weeks or so I have been doin 10/15 sprints (100 meters or so) in a 39/16. At first it was uuuggglly. It has gotten better, and as such my sprints in a real gear have started to smooth out. Thanks for all the advice.

V place rules atmo.

[TJ]

The ATMO knows that of which he speaks

[Chance Legstrong]

A little follow up. For the last 3 weeks or so I have been doin 10/15 sprints (100 meters or so) in a 39/16. At first it was uuuggglly. It has gotten better, and as such my sprints in a real gear have started to smooth out. Thanks for all the advice.

the first steps are always the ugliest...but I too have been getting my spin on and it's a beautiful thing, now. I hope this has helped a bunch of us knuckleheads!

[TJ]

I have atleast progressed enough sprinting in the small ring that my eyeballs don't bounce around in my niggin so hard I lose my vision

[Peter Polack]

Thanks for the follow up, TJ. For some reason, we all have a tendency to blame our bikes for our problems, likely as an excuse to buy new parts! But better is the cyclist who can adapt to the tools they are given, to perform well. This is one sign of an experienced rider.