BRAZING: alloys & fluxes.

[steve garro]

been getting lots of questions so i figured that i'd just put stuff up here for all. Garro. these pics: Aufhauser 680 brass-nickle, super milky blue flux + gasfluxer on Med/Lo, victor FW100 + #1 tip. done fast.

[WadePatton]

thanks fer the snapshot.

and "fast" is the most common thing i hear from good welders-any material.

how goes it w/o the gasfluxer?

[steve garro]

a couple more, please add your all's results too, be they fillet pro & stainless or coathanger & Ti. !! H2o boss = A56T + standard white flux. Stainless dropouts = A45 + standard white flux type "U". - Garro.

[Dave Porter]

Steve,
EASY PEEZEY clean up You're the man!
DP

[steve garro]

Steve,
EASY PEEZEY clean up You're the man!
DP

work smarter, not harder. that's what i'm about. that's why i want this thread to go, so we can all get a little closer to that. how about showing us some Silver/Stainless combos, Dave? - Garro.

[steve garro]

i get asked about this one allot. .058" sleeve x .6mm ST. Aufhauser A56T rod x Gasflux type "U" flux. no cleanup, move on. - Garro.

[suhacycles]

i get asked about this one allot. .058" sleeve x .6mm ST. Aufhauser A56T rod x Gasflux type "U" flux. no cleanup, move on. - Garro.

I take it you braze seatstays to that sleeve using 56 rod as well or stuff like 45 or fillet pro?

-Hansen

[EricKeller]

I take it you braze seatstays to that sleeve using 56 rod as well or stuff like 45 or fillet pro?

-Hansen

No, he does it with brass. See this picture

[Eric Estlund]

Only flux removal for these shots, and I have a GF on M running Type W through a Smith AW1A 205.

Some C04/ Type B shots- I don't know that I had the consistency issues other folks reported:





And Freddy's 56/ Type U:

[steve garro]

No, he does it with brass. See this picture

yep, i do. And, nice brazing, Mr. E! thanks for the additions. - Garro.

[steve garro]

just tried the type "H" flux on stainless x 4130 as suggested by Curt - good stuff! here's my 1st go. a bit hard to read at 1st so more flashing then i would like but i know what to lok for next time. flowed nice. definately got plenty of 45% cad-free in there - Garro.

[Dave Porter]

i get asked about this one allot. .058" sleeve x .6mm ST. Aufhauser A56T rod x Gasflux type "U" flux. no cleanup, move on. - Garro.

Steve, help me out here... I was under the impression and I may be mistaken that Aufhauser was merely an independent re-reseller and not a "production mill" and that "Aufhauser" was in fact the same product that was coming from Freddy's operation.
Is that also the case with some of the fluxes that are being discussed... i.e. same maker, different branding?
dave

[steve garro]

Steve, help me out here... I was under the impression and I may be mistaken that Aufhauser was merely an independent re-reseller and not a "production mill" and that "Aufhauser" was in fact the same product that was coming from Freddy's operation.
Is that also the case with some of the fluxes that are being discussed... i.e. same maker, different branding?
dave

i have no idea, Dave. they have great prices & customer service, so I get it all from them {except for most fluxes, i order liquid gasflux so i get that all sent in one shot, Types "B", "U" & now "H". 5-10lb jars, maybe once a year} ask them, they are nice, knowledgeable people: www.brazing.com - I'd like to know as well. Garro.

[EricKeller]

Steve,
I'm a little confused, are you using Gasflux type U on stainless?

The gasflux lfb used to be made up the road from me by Cerro, but their new owner decided to put them out of business.

[steve garro]

Steve,
I'm a little confused, are you using Gasflux type U on stainless?

The gasflux lfb used to be made up the road from me by Cerro, but their new owner decided to put them out of business.

the white? sure. works good. - Garro.

[JuanGrande]

just tried the type "H" flux on stainless x 4130 as suggested by Curt - good stuff! here's my 1st go. a bit hard to read at 1st so more flashing then i would like but i know what to lok for next time. flowed nice. definately got plenty of 45% cad-free in there - Garro.

Steve, could you walk me through your process on this? I will be attempting this for the first time in a month or so (same dropouts). In terms of stainless, I use the white flux from Hank at Henry James and just use some off the shelf 45n silver from my local welding shop. How much silver do you put down the chainstay? My plan is to notch the chainstay, and file a shelf onto the dropout so that there are multiple surface to attach too.

Thanks for any insight.

Jonathan

[steve garro]

Steve, could you walk me through your process on this? I will be attempting this for the first time in a month or so (same dropouts). In terms of stainless, I use the white flux from Hank at Henry James and just use some off the shelf 45n silver from my local welding shop. How much silver do you put down the chainstay? My plan is to notch the chainstay, and file a shelf onto the dropout so that there are multiple surface to attach too.

Thanks for any insight.

Jonathan

actually, no - i can't. this is the internet. if i told you it would be: "put it together, get it hot & when the flux is clear, shove rod into it." you want a solid plug to form at the D-Out end. i can say that if you do not have experence brazing stainless at all then this is going to be a 10min. uber-frustrating $150.00 exercise in bashing your head into the bench. not being "snarky" at all. you just can't teach this stuff on the WWW. you can recomend alloys & fluxes, though...... - Garro.

[marten]

actually, no - i can't. this is the internet. if i told you it would be: "put it together, get it hot & when the flux is clear, shove rod into it.

indeed, it is probably on of those things that if you have to ask, it is probably much better to braze in a close fitting plug, slot it and silverbraze the dropout with a only a small gap to cope with

[Dave Porter]

just tried the type "H" flux on stainless x 4130 as suggested by Curt - good stuff! here's my 1st go. a bit hard to read at 1st so more flashing then i would like but i know what to lok for next time. flowed nice. definately got plenty of 45% cad-free in there - Garro.

Steve, this vague remembrance goes back too far to be clear so bear with me... But I seem to recall this combination was tried in the late 70's and resulted in some, for lack of a better word, "scabbing" of the filler on the surface and eventually resulted in premature failure of the bond.. maybe there is some other oldsters that remember this??? I don't think anything was ever published, I mean, who in the big industrial world gave a hoot about bicycle construction in those days.. perhaps it was Pino that told me that? Of course he and cecil are long gone..
dp

[steve garro]

Steve, this vague remembrance goes back too far to be clear so bear with me... But I seem to recall this combination was tried in the late 70's and resulted in some, for lack of a better word, "scabbing" of the filler on the surface and eventually resulted in premature failure of the bond.. maybe there is some other oldsters that remember this??? I don't think anything was ever published, I mean, who in the big industrial world gave a hoot about bicycle construction in those days.. perhaps it was Pino that told me that? Of course he and cecil are long gone..
dp

!st: HAPPY B-DAY!!! 2nd: show me. this is a joint done with tight fit under perfect conditions by a trained guy. i'd put it up to anything. i bet the dropout goes 1st - in about 20yrs. that's all the combos i use in my shop, so unless you guys add stuff the thread may as well be over - Garro.