Timepieces

[Matthew Strongin]

Adding to the Tudor love of late, I've been wearing this a lot lately.

[NYCfixie]

I am in the "zone" which is 357 days away from a major milestone birthday. Asked/told my wife I was going to start looking for a watch to which she responded, "nothing steel, nothing with a metal bracelet, and no more Rolex watches because you have too many". Similar to bikes, anything more than 1 is too many for her. I then asked her what her idea of a watch might be and she responded with, "Gold case, leather strap, and not too big". And guess what I found, a Rolex Cellini. I tried it on but did not actually purchase it.

I need recommendations from other watch enthusiasts. I do not want to spend a fortune (not that I could) on something like an entry level Patek Calatrava or the Rolex Cellini shown below. I want something new (aka I will not purchase pre-owned). What options are available for a classic looking and sized gold case watch that would be my "adult dress watch" according to my wife and also not break the bank?

Attachment 111804

*** as you can see by the time I did some lunch hour trying-on

[NYCfixie]

Tried one on today (but did not take a picture. Also forgot to take a picture of the Patek Calatrava I tried).

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono you have is really nice and wears really comfortable.

Adding to the Tudor love of late, I've been wearing this a lot lately.

[Matthew Strongin]

I am in the "zone" which is 357 days away from a major milestone birthday. Asked/told my wife I was going to start looking for a watch to which she responded, "nothing steel, nothing with a metal bracelet, and no more Rolex watches because you have too many". Similar to bikes, anything more than 1 is too many for her. I then asked her what her idea of a watch might be and she responded with, "Gold case, leather strap, and not too big". And guess what I found, a Rolex Cellini. I tried it on but did not actually purchase it.

I need recommendations from other watch enthusiasts. I do not want to spend a fortune (not that I could) on something like an entry level Patek Calatrava or the Rolex Cellini shown below. I want something new (aka I will not purchase pre-owned). What options are available for a classic looking and sized gold case watch that would be my "adult dress watch" according to my wife and also not break the bank?

Attachment 111804

*** as you can see by the time I did some lunch time trying-on

Your wife won't like this, but if you want a classic gold watch that is a milestone purchase, you should stretch and get the Calatrava. Or, if you don't want to break the bank, ignore your wife and get something else that's steel. Perhaps another Rolex. I say that because the world of classic gold watches that won't break the bank and will hold their value is almost non-existent. Sure, there are plenty of gold dress watches that cost less than a Calatrava (or an equivalent watch like an A. Lange or a Vacheron), but you'll pay a premium for the metal without market desirability to keep the value. Perhaps a JLC Reverso would be an option, but you're still getting into steep prices if going with gold. Another approach would be to tell her that you want a Patek 5204R with perpetual calendar and split-second chrono and when you then offer to "settle" for a 5196R manual wind Calatrava, she'll be relieved.

[WayneJ]

The Calatrava is the safe choice.

If you’re looking for something a little different, the Cartier Balon Bleu checks a lot of your boxes.

[NYCfixie]

Your wife won't like this, but if you want a classic gold watch that is a milestone purchase, you should stretch and get the Calatrava. Or, if you don't want to break the bank, ignore your wife and get something else that's steel. Perhaps another Rolex. I say that because the world of classic gold watches that won't break the bank and will hold their value is almost non-existent. Sure, there are plenty of gold dress watches that cost less than a Calatrava (or an equivalent watch like an A. Lange or a Vacheron), but you'll pay a premium for the metal without market desirability to keep the value. Perhaps a JLC Reverso would be an option, but you're still getting into steep prices if going with gold. Another approach would be to tell her that you want a Patek 5204R with perpetual calendar and split-second chrono and when you then offer to "settle" for a 5196R manual wind Calatrava, she'll be relieved.

All Rolex steel sports watches are going up whether new or pre-owned. I keep getting crazy offers for my Explorer II 16570 Polar Dial with all original parts (that is 25 years old this month) that I will most probably sell it since I do not wear it much anymore. That watch especially in the white dial has never been popular until recently but now people either do not want to spend the necessary funds for a sub, gmt, or daytona or they cannot get one because they have no existing AD relationships (hope that does not sound to judge-y) so the Explorer II keeps going up in value. I feel lucky that I only waited 2 weeks for a sub last year.

I tried the 5196 Calatrava and it was really thin (compared to my Rolex sport watches), felt good on the wrist, and looked great and "only" 20k.


I also tried the 5527 Calatrava and love the dial color but was not crazy about the "officers window" on the back of the watch; Make it a true window or a solid case back (IMHO) and at about 35k I simply said "no thank you".

[NYCfixie]

The Calatrava is the safe choice.

If you’re looking for something a little different, the Cartier Balon Bleu checks a lot of your boxes.

The Cartier Balon Bleu is not really my style. Maybe the santos on a strap but even that is too "sporty".

[Matthew Strongin]

Non-complication dress watches should be manual wind like that 5196. They are perfectly thin and elegant and pair perfectly with a tux. And if you can swing the cash money it takes to get one, it's probably a safe bet that you'd be the kind of person who wears a tux with regularity.

[Matthew Strongin]

And since we're talking Patek, the 5205 is really the perfect watch. Ideally you'd have one in both rose and white for variety.



Or...

[NYCfixie]

This Cellini Time is really nice and simple.

[choke]

I need recommendations from other watch enthusiasts. I do not want to spend a fortune (not that I could) on something like an entry level Patek Calatrava or the Rolex Cellini shown below. I want something new (aka I will not purchase pre-owned). What options are available for a classic looking and sized gold case watch that would be my "adult dress watch" according to my wife and also not break the bank?

Chopard has a few gold watches without a crazy price tag. Really though, particularly with gold cases, you can get so much more watch if you go with pre-owned....it's not hard to find a Calatrava for under $10k.

[happycampyer]

Just picked this up last week. My Seiko divers haven't been getting much wrist time.

As a left-handed person who has always worn (right-handed) watches on my right wrist, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a left-hand drive watch. What made you get one to wear on your left wrist? Having the crown point away from the crease of your wrist?

[theflashunc]

As a left-handed person who has always worn (right-handed) watches on my right wrist, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a left-hand drive watch. What made you get one to wear on your left wrist? Having the crown point away from the crease of your wrist?

Couple things:
-- The LHD model has a different lume color that's more off-white to cream, rather than the stark white of the regular Pelagos. Not as harsh and I think better fits the watch.
-- The Roulette date wheel (red on even days, black on odd) is a nod to Tudor's past.
-- I think destro dive watches are just quirky and a bit weird, and, yes, getting the crown on the left side of the case does mean I don't have anything poking into my wrist or the usual issues with a crown on the right.

[Mabouya]

getting the crown on the left side of the case does mean I don't have anything poking into my wrist or the usual issues with a crown on the right.

I don't have any issues with the crowns digging into my wrist, but unless I put the straps / bracelet super-tight, nearly all of my cases ride up against the bony protrusion that's near 2:00 (I think it's called the pisiform bone). It isn't painful, but as a result I have a permanently red irritated spot.

I just got a stretchy-type strap (like Erika's MN straps, but not as expensive) from The Watch Steward to go with the new "weekend beater" BOLDR Venture that according to the USPS tracking is currently sitting in my mailbox. We'll see if I can get the tension set so that it's tight enough to keep the case from moving towards my wrist, but loose enough to still be comfortable. However, even if that can be done just right, that type of strap style only works for some watches.

Incoming BOLDR:

[slwrnu]

that is a nice watch, but I do not understand why most higher end brands have such a small date window. Slight generalisation, but most people who can afford such nice things are likely to be of a certain age and with that comes less good eyesight. Lange Cabaret? Rectangular, big date. Plenty of money though.

[WayneJ]

that is a nice watch, but I do not understand why most higher end brands have such a small date window. Slight generalisation, but most people who can afford such nice things are likely to be of a certain age and with that comes less good eyesight. Lange Cabaret? Rectangular, big date. Plenty of money though.

There are 31 numbers printed around the perimeter of a ring. To make the date bigger means the entire case needs to grow in diameter.

[NYCfixie]

.....I just got a stretchy-type strap (like Erika's MN straps, but not as expensive) from The Watch Steward....

Straps are so personal. I tried one of those but I could never get it to work because it was always way too tight or way to loose. I sent it to my younger brother to try and he thinks it is the best think ever and started swapping out the straps on all of his sports watches (he collects inexpensive timex/seiko/invicta/etc and has about 50 of them) with that strap.

There are 31 numbers printed around the perimeter of a ring. To make the date bigger means the entire case needs to grow in diameter.

that is a nice watch, but I do not understand why most higher end brands have such a small date window. Slight generalisation, but most people who can afford such nice things are likely to be of a certain age and with that comes less good eyesight. Lange Cabaret? Rectangular, big date. Plenty of money though.

I got my first Rolex with a date bubble window 25 years ago this month because I thought it was cool. Now 25 years alter I need that date bubble window because I cannot see the date on watches without my reading glasses which I never seem to have near/with me when I want to read the date on my watch.

[moondog-sparky]

For a Big Date window check out both A Lange & Sohne or Glashutte Original - great approach with 2 rings + numbers.
GO are fantastic (I have older Sport EVO) and are more reasonable than Lange or Patek.
Small numbers for the date based on single outer ring style are hideous, IMO.

[slwrnu]

yes, Glasshutte is quite similar to Lange - Teutonic styling, quite a bit cheaper than Lange, but still nearly top notch. If you do not want to spend 10x a decent bike costs you can check out Sinn - another German brand. They do not do big dates but their basic models are still terrific value, although prices have crept up since word got out.

[NYCfixie]

Omega Constellation/Globemaster (in steel)