Timepieces

[dgaddis]

Got my new crystal pressed in yesterday. While I had it apart I brushed the crown too. For some reason they used a polished crown on a watch that is otherwise entirely brushed.

[AngryScientist]

Got my new crystal pressed in yesterday. While I had it apart I brushed the crown too. For some reason they used a polished crown on a watch that is otherwise entirely brushed.

cool. can you walk us through the process? i would have been petrified of getting some dust under the crystal. also - how confident are you in the water tightness of it now?

[dgaddis]

cool. can you walk us through the process? i would have been petrified of getting some dust under the crystal. also - how confident are you in the water tightness of it now?

The hardest part was getting the caseback off because I had a shitty tool, it actually bent on me, and of course scratched the caseback. Once I got a better tool it came off fairly easy. Then you have to pull the crown and stem out. Again, that took me a minute to figure out, eventually I realized you leave the crown in (unscrewed, but not pulled out) and then push in the hole w/the arrow pointing at it - that releases it, and you can pull it right out. Then the movement, spacer, dial, hands drop right out as a single unit. Press the old crystal out. Press the new crystal in, drop the movement in, screw down the caseback, put the crown back in, done. When I bought the crystal I got some 'figer cots' as well, and used them to try and keep everything clean.

I did it during my lunch break. Once back in the office I realized I did indeed have a few pieces of dust in there, two on the inside of the crystal, one on the dial. Later last night I took it apart again and got the dust out. Used a new microfiber cloth to wipe the inside of the crystal (it came w/the crystal actually), put the movement back in, put the caseback back on, then took a flashlight to shine on the dial/crystal and inspect to make sure I got it all. And I did. Then I put the crown back in.

It's been dunked under water a few times while giving the toddler a bath, showered with it on this morning, so far so good. That's about as much water as it'll see, I rarely swim. But we do have a beach trip planned for later this year, I'm planning on taking it.

It's a cheap enough watch I wasn't afraid to tear into it. And if I did compromise the water resistance (which I don't think I did) I won't be terribly upset about it.

FWIW, I did take the bezel off, but you don't need to. The bezel system is a bit different than an SKX. It uses a wire retaining ring to hold it in place, the insert is ~twice as thick, and the spring has three leaves that all engage simultaneously vs two leaves that engage one at a time on a Seiko. The wire meant getting the bezel off was a real chore....I used a caseback knife and you really have to pry on it. Right when I was convinced something was going to break it finally popped loose.

Bezel, wire, insert.


The insert is the same OD and ID as an SKX insert, but it's twice as thick (it's sloped actually, 2.0mm and 2.3mm thick) and it's not flat on the bottom so it clears the ring the crystal is pressed into, so an SKX insert won't fit.


Bezel teeth are ramped. I had thought about making it a bi-directional bezel, but once getting it apart I decided that was a bad idea.


Bezel spring


Sideview of the case without the bezel. Stock flat mineral crystal. I was surprised at how little of the crystal is actually pressed into the case, the stock crystal is supposedly 2.4mm thick (I didn't measure it myself).


That's the hole you press in to release the crown and stem. You can see the crown/stem up under my hand...it's impossibly dainty and frail looking.


POS tools are the worst.

[AngryScientist]

Thanks for such a detailed response. I was wondering if the crystal was just a press interference fit or if there were some sort of epoxy/adhesive involved. Nice work!

[alexstar]

Check out the new JLC Moonphase Calendar...as not to block the view of the moonphase, the calendar jumps from 15 to 16. Its the silly details like these that really make this hobby cool.

Attachment 115809

I saw that! A hell of a new release. The ultimate Moonphase watch?

[Matthew Strongin]

That JLC is fantastic. But the ultimate moniker may be better saved for a watch that dials "moonphase" up to 11.

[dgaddis]

If anyone is interested in an Islander, I think I'm going to move mine and pick up a smaller Zelos instead, or maybe a flieger. Figured I'd post it here before going to eBay. It's the full-size version, started as this before modding it a bit. $250 and I'll ship it to you. Has an aftermarket (CrystalTimes) black coin edge bezel and a lumed ceramic sub-style insert. Bezel action is GREAT. Comes with the bracelet, all the links, the original box, etc. I'll even throw in a a few straps as it's my only 22mm lug width piece. Bracelet has some 'desk diving' marks but the case* and crystal are perfect. I can send more pics if you're interested. Movement runs great...I want to say it runs about ~5sec fast per day on wrist. I don't have a timegrapher.

*I'm pretty sure the case is perfect, I'll take a closer look tonight to confirm.

[deano]

If anyone is interested in an Islander, I think I'm going to move mine and pick up a smaller Zelos instead, or maybe a flieger. Figured I'd post it here before going to eBay. It's the full-size version, started as this before modding it a bit. $250 and I'll ship it to you. Has an aftermarket (CrystalTimes) black coin edge bezel and a lumed ceramic sub-style insert. Bezel action is GREAT. Comes with the bracelet, all the links, the original box, etc. I'll even throw in a a few straps as it's my only 22mm lug width piece. Bracelet has some 'desk diving' marks but the case* and crystal are perfect. I can send more pics if you're interested. Movement runs great...I want to say it runs about ~5sec fast per day on wrist. I don't have a timegrapher.

*I'm pretty sure the case is perfect, I'll take a closer look tonight to confirm.

Your PMs are full, but I messaged a friend, who wants his first automatic, about your Islander; he's interested, has spouse approval, etc. PM me with your contact info and I will pass along to him.

Thanks and all the best,
John Z.

[theflashunc]

Apologies to our Miami-based resident Patek fan, but there's not much from the Holy Trinity that gets me hyped like it does Pusha T. Lange, on the other hand, this new Lange 1 Time Zone? Lawdy.

Introducing: The New Lange 1 Time Zone, With Caliber L 141.1 - HODINKEE

[Matthew Strongin]

Apologies to our Miami-based resident Patek fan, but there's not much from the Holy Trinity that gets me hyped like it does Pusha T. Lange, on the other hand, this new Lange 1 Time Zone? Lawdy.

Introducing: The New Lange 1 Time Zone, With Caliber L 141.1 - HODINKEE

I just saw that on IG a few minutes ago. I'm a huge Lange fan. There's a boutique not far from my house and I'm sure I've annoyed the staff with my loitering on many occasions. Gorgeous watches.

[dashDustin]

that wg/ black dial variant is absolutely wonderful.

[choke]

My favorite moonphase watch is totally impractical.....but if I won the lottery I'd be looking for one.

In-Depth: A Ulysse Nardin Tellurium Johannes Kepler, One Of The Three Original Trilogy Of Time Watches From The 199s - HODINKEE

I really like the Ochs und Junior moonphase and I wouldn't have to win the lotto to buy one. I'm a big fan of Dr. Oechslin's work.

[dgaddis]

I've had my G Shock about a year now. I swapped out the IP plated bezel the day I received it with a DLC bezel that originally came on the limited edition 'porter' collaboration model. After a year it's still pretty much scratch free...one corner has just a smidge of silver showing through, but it's an itty bitty spot. I've got the matching DLC bracelet on order for it...we'll see if I like the bracelet over the resin strap. If I don't I know I can flip the bracelet and get my money back.

[dgaddis]

Bracelet is in. Still trying to decide if I like how it wears. The endlinks are long...but they do angle down and it wraps around my wrist fairly well. I'm gonna give it a few days...but I may end up selling the bracelet and just sticking with the resin band.

[NYCfixie]

Sea Dweller Deep Sea 44mm.

On-hold until tomorrow.
I celebrated a significant milestone birthday during lock-down and have not yet bought/received a gift so I am very tempted.

Attachment 116129

[dashDustin]

Sea Dweller Deep Sea 44mm.

On-hold until tomorrow.
I celebrated a significant milestone birthday during lock-down and have not yet bought/received a gift so I am very tempted.

In lieu of Batman, or in addition to?

[NYCfixie]

In lieu of Batman, or in addition to?

Short answer: in lieu of.

Long answer: Unfortunately the Boston location closed during the pandemic of the company we have been customers of for 15 years (5 years in Boston and 10 years in NJ). I do not know why and nobody is talking. I called the NJ manager who knows me and he said "maybe" Batman in a few years. Went to another jeweler/Rolex dealer and shared my story. They said we have a SDDS 44mm and a Yachtmaster 40mm with Blue Dial "in the back" if you want to try them on. I never liked the polished center links of steel only Rolex watches (i.e. DateJust, Yachtmaster, milgauss) so the SDDS is very interesting to me. It is a big watch (44mm, 17.7mm thick, 5.5mm crystal) so if I did not have 7.25 wrists, I would not even be considering it. For reference, the Submariner Date is only 13mm thick. They said they would hold it until noon tomorrow.

I did not like the Submariner Date 116600LN I had and sold it after 18 months but this SDDS is a whole different watch. It is an engineering marvel and the widened the bracelet so it does not wear as top heavy as the previous model.

[twowheels]

No cameron dial available? That's the very special version. I'd hold out. Unless you prefer the black dial.

[theflashunc]

Nearly 18mm thick. And sometimes I wonder about the height of the Pelagos.

[NYCfixie]

No cameron dial available? That's the very special version. I'd hold out. Unless you prefer the black dial.

Nearly 18mm thick. And sometimes I wonder about the height of the Pelagos.

I passed on the 44mm Sea Dweller Deep Sea. In theory it would have been fun to own but I am not a collector, it is a very specific use watch, does not fit under long sleeve short, and does not fit under sport/suit jacket so it would have limited use for me. The 43mm "Standard" Sea Dweller (pic below) seems like a better choice or wait to see if they announce a new Submariner in September (rumors are that Rolex is actually going to announce new watches this year).