These work reasonably well, with a little patience. Won't harm the rim or tire and don't use solvents. You can find them in bags of 10 or more.
label peeler | label remover | Scotty Peeler Company
A corrected twist in the tire will pull up a section. To correct a twist, lift and turn rather than pushing/pulling the tire into position against the adhesive force of the glue. If you pull/push, tire may lift in the area of the corrected twist.
Heat gun. If you are looking for sparkly clean brand-new looking rims, heat gun method is not for you. But it is so fast and easy to get rid of 95% of the glue/tape that is there. If there's a lot of glue built up, you can get all the nasty dirty stuff and residual tape off w/ heat gun and you'll just be left with thin bits of virgin glue in spots that you can go right over with new.
I heat gun about a 4-5 inch section for 15-20s w/ heat gun on low. Use an old butter knife to clean the heated glue off the rim, then transfer onto a rag. Throw the rag away when done. You can do a wheel in about 15 minutes or so.
I've never used the wire brush method but I can't imagine it would be easier than the heat gun.
just jumped on this method this season. i picked up a $20 heat gun from amazon and was amazed how easy it is. I usually work in sections b/w the spokes.
a good buddy of mine ended up on the phone with stu thorne regarding a product order and he dropped that tip on him. heat gun FTW.
I ended up using the brush on a drill. It worked really well, everything was pretty much evened out in 30min. I didnt go for a perfectly clean rim, since it was ll my glue on it, I wasnt worried. Once the circular brush really gunks up it starts to work real well. It started off 1/4" wide, full of glue it was the same width the rim. It basically is the same thing as a heat gun, because the wire never really hits the rim, and the heat through friction is what causes it to gum up and come off, sticking to the other brush.
https://instagram.com/p/-E3QERniDr
This saved me hours over the acetone and hairdryer method. Haven't tried a true heat gun before, maybe next time.
If you go at them with a wire brush/drill it will make heat and you'll have quite a mess.
However you go the dirt / contamination preventing a glue to rim bond has to be removed. A hair dryer and plastic scraper will do the deed. Be patient, wear gloves.
Josh Simonds
www.nixfrixshun.com
www.facebook.com/NFSspeedshop
www.bicycle-coach.com
Vsalon Fromage De Tête
If the surface is clean and solid than put glue on it! Seriously. It is my experience that what the tape leaves behind is stuck onto your basetape VERY strongly. Use that.
FWIIW worth it to wipe down all surfaces with a non-residue cleaner. It looks like there is some dirt?
Josh Simonds
www.nixfrixshun.com
www.facebook.com/NFSspeedshop
www.bicycle-coach.com
Vsalon Fromage De Tête
New question, just got a used wheelset that had almost new tires on it, they are in great shape, the seller warned my that the glue job wasnt perfectly straight. The fact that the wheelset came with the tires was what made the deal worth it. The tires have a pretty serious lean if you ask me, both front and rear, 100% consistent. Judging by the base tape, they are 3-5 mm off center, all around.
Otherwise they are well glued, I dont really want to take them off and straighten them, what would you guys call acceptable? The way I see it, the tread will make pretty even contact with the ground when compressed anyways, but I just wanted to ask.
I glued a tire a couple years ago and the power went out while in the middle of getting it on. I was in the basement and had to do it blindly. Not surprisingly I didn't end up straight. It was VERY crocked. But as they were CX tires I had lots of room to get basetape adherence on the rim. As long as that's what you're working with I wouldn't sweat it. Mine lasted two years.
That being said, I'd be hesitant to trust a used tire glue job.
S. What you describe sounds like what happens when the tire is over inflated off the rim prior to installation. The innertube will twist. The "lean" you describe is unsightly but will not affect performance.
Josh Simonds
www.nixfrixshun.com
www.facebook.com/NFSspeedshop
www.bicycle-coach.com
Vsalon Fromage De Tête
s_curran see this also: http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum...tml#post626518
I'm assuming we're talking cx tire?
Thanks for all the responses. Tire is a Clement MXP, so its not the inner tube issue (which I think I actually asked about before on here). I too am hesitant about used glue jobs, but they have been used very little, used belgian tape, and the same metthod I use. Also, he is a tall dude like myself, and these are for my 140 lb fiance.
I am not as worried about the tire not staying put, they are wider rims, and I've had more base tape showing on nemesis' before, but more to do with the general handling.
The first photo is basically straight from the top, so you can see how much more of the left side lugs are vissible as opposed to the right. The side shots are just to compare how much of the base tape is exposed. It really doesnt look that bad, but it is strange to me.
IMG_2498.jpg IMG_2499.jpg IMG_2501.jpg
Edit: sorry, I dont know why all the photos rotated on here.
I try to get CX tires as straight as possible when I mount, but I am not a pro gluer. However, as long as the tread wobble or lean is not too gnarly, I don't fret too much if the tire is not cooperating. If you're running the tire at race pressure, a majority of the width of the tread is going to be contacting the ground, since the rider weight is significantly deforming/flattening the tire at the contact point (much more than road tires). So in my mind a few mms is not a deal breaker.
Maybe try riding the thing at race pressure and do some cornering and see if you feel any impact when you lean 1 way vs the other way on some hard turns and off cambers where the side knobs come into play.
Now if the tire had a hop/low point/high point issue that is another story...
Ha, your unfortunately probably right. I always thought they would last longer than a tubular with a true tube, but... Actually what do you find to be the longest lasting? I like the MXP/PDX treads, therefore thinking about giving the baby limus a shot.
I would have bought Sandy's, but these are disc. Once I get my disc bike built up, I'll go hammer on them, if they feel ok to me, they should be fine for Brooke, who weighs 60 lbs less.
The strangest thing was, the tires are straight as can be, no hops, just a lean. I can imagine it happening though, Im sure he just lined up one side, and didn't consider the other side. Wasnt looking for perfect, I jsut have different issues when I glue, ha.
Thanks
Like I said I am not a pro glue-er and have never worked with Clements...but I'm a bit surprised to see these came out this way. Being that they are factory manufactured (straight and true) and lack a tube (nothing to get twisted up like TT suggests), I wonder how he got the lean when glueing? Maybe an over inflated tire when mounting or not quite stretched enough would result in a mounting that was uniformly off center...
Never glue tires when you are drunk or mad at the world.
Josh Simonds
www.nixfrixshun.com
www.facebook.com/NFSspeedshop
www.bicycle-coach.com
Vsalon Fromage De Tête
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