Shoe care

[mnoble485]

OK, we've had threads on boots, belts, shoes (dress and casual). I haven't seen one on shoe care. My dad was a retired Col. in the Army and always "spit shined" all of his shoes. I am not that good. I wear ECCO boots for work and most times they look like crap. What do I need to do?

Mike

[WayneJ]

Saphir is the last word in shoe care products
I bought some polish the last time I was in France.
Available on the net too

http://www.hangerproject.com/closet/...oe-polish.html

[chasea]

The most important thing you can do is to not wear the same shoes every day if possible.

Take them off when you get home. Its good to put shoe trees (lasts) in immediately, and leave them for at least 4 or 5 hours. This helps the shoe retain its shape. You really only need one pair of trees, as they should go in the shoe just after taking them off.

If the shoes get wet, stuff them with newspaper and leave them overnight. Remove the paper in the morning and let the remaining moisture air out. Once mostly dry (as in as dry as leather shoes would be after a work day), the lasts can go in.

Brushes for polishing shoes- I prefer the medium sized ones. I should be able to grip the brush between my thumb and pinky finger. Buy one brush and mark it ith the word "OFF." This brush is used first to remove dirt, and the next brush should be a polish-only brush. You'll need a brush for every color of polish you'll be using. Black, brown, neutral, cordovan, etc each gets their own brush. In a rush, you'll grab the closest one. Its important that the polish at least be darker than whatever color brush you're using. Eventually, all of your brushes become "black" brushes, and its time to get more brushes.

The order:
-Brush off as much dirt or dust as possible with the "off" brush.
-Clean rag, work the polish with your fingers and spread around the shoe. Start in the areas of heaviest wear, concentrating on scuffs and working your way out.
-Apply polish to one she, set it aside to settle in, and apply polish to the second shoe.
-Grip the brush with between your thumb and pinky finger. Using your wrist, go over the entire shoe with a series of rapid, short strokes; hitting the shoe from every angle.
-Next, use a buffing rag on the shoe. This is easier with the shoe on. Or have your butler take them to his butler's pantry, where he'll have a mounted set of wooden feet to put the shoes on. You know, whichever is more convenient for you.
-Finally, go around the heel and outside sole of the shoe with edge dressing. Set the shoe on craft paper and let dry.

Do this to your shoes once a week. Alternate each week between shoe polish and shoe cream.

You can use a whale bone if you're super obsessive... and hate whales.

Here's a link to another thread with video of and commentary of the whole procedure:
http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f39/zen-21946.html

[lavi]

what about leather soled shoes in rainy climates (Portland). Is it ok to have the soles covered in rubber, or is that just lame?

[chasea]

what about leather soled shoes in rainy climates (Portland). Is it ok to have the soles covered in rubber, or is that just lame?

You've got a choice of a rubber sole or a rubber overshoe. Google it. Then you make the call.

[lavi]

You've got a choice of a rubber sole or a rubber overshoe. Google it. Then you make the call.

I've owned lots of rubber overshoes...not my favorite. I was wondering if it's bad (not that I really care) to have the sole covered in a thin layer of vibram rubber (I had this done on another pair when I had them re-soled).

[C.Dyer]

I have a pair of leather soled boots. Wolverine 1000 mile boots. I wear 'em in Portland, rainy day or not. They do just fine. I make sure they get to dry out thoroughly if I get them wet--stuff with newspapers overnight, kept on a slatted shoe rack so that there's airflow underneath. I use shoe trees in "em too.

They are aging beautifully, and are super comfy.

[lavi]

I have a pair of leather soled boots. Wolverine 1000 mile boots. I wear 'em in Portland, rainy day or not. They do just fine. I make sure they get to dry out thoroughly if I get them wet--stuff with newspapers overnight, kept on a slatted shoe rack so that there's airflow underneath. I use shoe trees in "em too.

They are aging beautifully, and are super comfy.

Thanks. Something else to obsess about now.

[vjp]

Chasea gives some very good advice!

I cleaned/polished golf shoes for a couple of years at a Country Club in the PNW in the 70's when I was a teen. A lot of bespoke all leather golf shoes (Taylor & Sons et al.) and we did it almost exactly the same way except due to the volume of members shoes on a weekend we would use a buffing wheel. If it was a wet day the shoes were put on an air dry rack after the "off" brush treatment and then polished a couple of days later.

We would handle up to a few hundred pairs a weekend. It was tough and a lot of the cliche "jerk" members made life hell for me but I sold pot to most of the staff and the hot college girls that worked in the dining room would grab my ass and talk dirty when I popped into the kitchen for my lunch. I loved those college girls with their bad language and bell bottom jeans....

[chasea]

You can use a whale bone if you're super obsessive... and hate whales.

Deer bone. DEER BONE! I'm such an idiot. Of course, everyone hates whales.

[nahtnoj]

Is there such a thing as a retired Colonel?

I learned everything I know about shoe care from my retired Lt. Commander father. I cannot describe it - just part of who I am.

[Ben]

Chase has covered the field pretty thoroughly, so all I can add is this: The kind of polish/cream you use matters. I, like 99% of Americans, used Kiwi stuff for years. Then I bought some of the Allen-Edmonds stuff. It's a dramatic difference, both in ease of use and qualify of results. Yeah, the good stuff can be pricey, but if you're talking about a pair of shoes that cost north of $300, it probably makes sense to spend the extra coin to keep them in good shape.

[chasea]

I like this stuff.
Leather Spa

[mnoble485]

Is there such a thing as a retired Colonel?

I learned everything I know about shoe care from my retired Lt. Commander father. I cannot describe it - just part of who I am.

I know what you mean. When my dad retired and went to work in the public sector he couldn't understand why people didn't reply "Yes Sir" when he spoke. As much as i hated being raised as an Army Brat it is who and what I am even at 60 years old.

Mike

[JTC33]

There seems to be some difference of opinion re: wax vs. creme. I read that leather shoes are a biological and need to be fed, otherwise they dry out and cracks will appear at the bends or creases. This is especially seen on the outside edges of the shoes. This is best prevented by using a creme that soaks into the leather rather than a wax that coats the outside of the leather. If one is in a wet climate, it would seem best to first feed the leather with creme and then apply a coat of wax on top. I am in a dry climate so creme is basically all I use and still get a good shine.

[chasea]

There seems to be some difference of opinion re: wax vs. creme. I read that leather shoes are a biological and need to be fed, otherwise they dry out and cracks will appear at the bends or creases. This is especially seen on the outside edges of the shoes. This is best prevented by using a creme that soaks into the leather rather than a wax that coats the outside of the leather. If one is in a wet climate, it would seem best to first feed the leather with creme and then apply a coat of wax on top. I am in a dry climate so creme is basically all I use and still get a good shine.

I was taught that its best to alternate between cream and polish (wax) with each shine. It is possible to over-moisturize leather. The cream moisturizes while the wax protects. I think this is probably best for 99% of people.

[54ny77]

great thread.

had a pair of aldens that i took great care of, lasted me probably a decade or so despite hellacious abuse.

good shoes and proper care a must.

oh and those rubber dress overshoes--best things on earth. sound goofy while walking, but the occasional squeaky walk beats having to replace very expensive soles.