Why would anyone want the version that only fits a cut race? Wouldn't one made to fit the uncut race work the same for a cut one?
Why would anyone want the version that only fits a cut race? Wouldn't one made to fit the uncut race work the same for a cut one?
It sounds like Andy falls in that category, and actually I probably would too. I like my dummy to be fairly snug :)
S
It seems like crown races can be pretty variable depending on the fork crown. I usually braze the steerer and crown then cut it slightly over sized on the lathe before using a park cutter. It seems like it would be hard to make an "uncut" version that would actually work on uncut races without excessive play or minimal compatibility...
Travis Cooper
Cooper Cycles LLC
1515 SE Ankeny St.
Portland, OR 97214
www.cyclescooper.com
www.flickr.com/coopercycles
Is the h/set assembly meant to go "by hand" or pressed?
Personally, I would use something like this only if would fit by hand
Andrea "Gattonero" Cattolico, head mechanic @Condor Cycles London
"Caron, non ti crucciare:
vuolsi così colà dove si puote
ciò che si vuole, e più non dimandare"
@Travis (or anyone with a caliper and a variety of uncut 1.125" crown races handy) - What's the biggest one you can find? I can make that ID whatever works :)
@Gattonero - If everything is properly prepped, then the dummy fits with minimal hand force. If you haven't prepped the frame/fork fully then it can be a little snug, but there's *no* pressing involved.
Cheers!
S
I ordered and recieved a black set of these. It's a nice piece IMO. Has a nice matt texture to it that would make painting it a fairly easy option as well.
Dave
Awesome Dave, thanks!
I'm planning on doing a 1" version too, for the old school guys :)
Spencer Wright
Why not use a large rubber O ring inside the crown race piece, should allow it to work for cut and uncut.
1" sounds good, would you also make available a "top nut" (open threading so that it can be threaded down past the top of the steerer) for those who still use threaded headsets?
Pete Ruckelshaus * Teacher, Fat Guy on a Bike * Collegeville, PA
pruckelshaus' flickr
Framejig.wordpress.com effort to collect DIY framebuilding jig designs
I like the idea of the o-ring - I'll look into that!
I'm not sure I follow re: threaded forks though. Do you think there's a need for a nut? I would be inclined to just use nylon-tipped set screws like my current design has, though I guess that'd be aesthetically incongruous.
Spencer Wright
Love the idea of a 3D printed dummy headset - well done. I'll have to pick one up.
I was showing a frame at my friend's "hand made show" this past weekend and had the problem of needing to attach the fork but not yet being ready to press the headset in place.
Wan-
That's exactly why I designed these! Let me know how they work for you!
S
How about a set for a paragon 44mm head tube BEFORE its reamed? They are way undersized and always makes test fitting parts hard.
Sure, I could definitely do that! I'll try to get to it tomorrow and will update here!
S
Hey, which version would be most useful? I'm inclined to use a King as a model for stack height & design, but I don't have one on hand. Any chance you could snap a few measurements for me?
Spencer
Ah is this spencer of mast topper fame?
:) Yup - Hey Mike!
Spencer
I'd take a 44mm version. I use TT, Reynolds and paragon Ht's and King for all those.
Headset Specs | Chris King Precision Components
Dont have one in hand to measure at the moment.
cheers
andy walker
Great! I take it that 1.5"/1.125" would be the most useful?
I'll have to track one down in order to make it accurately - that spec page doesn't show InSet stack heights :( - but I'll work on it!
Spencer
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