Bike 0001

[Luke]

More words of wisdom.......thanks!

I'll try to get in and out with the seat stays as quickly as possible to avoid a melt down. ;)

[Dallas Tex]

Luke, one trick you might want to remember for #2 is to leave a little seat tube peeking out beyond the seat lug until after the seat stays are attached (just like you did in your 3rd picture). When those stays are brazed on, it is likely some of the silver between the lug and seat tube will bleed out leaving a little gap. Having a little ledge left will help you braze some more silver into that hole. Actually without that lip, silver will want to go outside the lug and inside the tube but not into the gap. When all brazing is finished you can tidy up the edge to your liking.

This is a great thread. Another option is to use brass on the seat tube lug, as opposed to silver. Brass requires a higher temp, and is less likely to melt & move.

[Doug Fattic]

Another minor tip about what to do when is to split your seat lug after the seat stays are brazed on and the seat hole size checked and corrected. If it is out a bit, it can be reamed and honed to the right size more easily without the lug spreading apart. Distortion is more likely to happen with inexperienced brazers overheating the joint. In your case it is possible to use a seat bolt to hold the lug together if you need to ream the seat tube. Of course it is a lot more convenient to split a seat lug before the brake bridge is attached.

I'm sure you also know this but as a reminder to those eavesdropping, bevel with a file all the inside edges of the slot as well as the top around the opening. This prevents any galling of the seat post when it is moved.

[Luke]

Another minor tip about what to do when is to split your seat lug after the seat stays are brazed on and the seat hole size checked and corrected. If it is out a bit, it can be reamed and honed to the right size more easily without the lug spreading apart. Distortion is more likely to happen with inexperienced brazers overheating the joint. In your case it is possible to use a seat bolt to hold the lug together if you need to ream the seat tube. Of course it is a lot more convenient to split a seat lug before the brake bridge is attached.

I'm sure you also know this but as a reminder to those eavesdropping, bevel with a file all the inside edges of the slot as well as the top around the opening. This prevents any galling of the seat post when it is moved.

When brazing...I went BB, head tube, then seat lug...the joints got progressively better (quicker, less heat, less waste...etc.)
I did clean out the inside of the ST also. :)
I hate garfed-up seatposts!

[Luke]

Head badge patterm is finished...
It took a bit of hammering, but I got it done. ;)
It has an old-world feel to it, and I relish it being handcrafted...and not CNC'd.
IMAG0047-1.jpg

[e-RICHIE]

So hot right now atmo -

Head badge patterm is finished...
It took a bit of hammering, but I got it done. ;)
It has an old-world feel to it, and I relish it being handcrafted...and not CNC'd.
IMAG0047-1.jpg

[Luke]

Seat lug cleaning up nicely...
seat lug.jpg

[Luke]

OK guys...
Question:

I'm trying to dig up one of these Fizik Cyrano carbon seatposts in 30.6mm...
I've been told that they are out there, yet my distributor (Hwy 2) has no info or availability.
My rep says that they don't exist.
Any one have a part number or source for these posts for UOS steel tubes???

Thanks- as always,
Luke

[busdriver1959]

Have you tried to e-mail Dazza? He seems to be hanging out at the Framebuilders Collective these days.

[Luke]

Have you tried to e-mail Dazza? He seems to be hanging out at the Framebuilders Collective these days.

That is where I seen the post about the post...Was hoping to find them closer...
I know he uses them as well as Dave Kirk and Dario P.

I may give him a shout.
;)

[progetto]

AFAIK Dave also sells them.

[Luke]

I've been taking advantage of some great weather...and,and,and... RIDING!

I took the night off from physical activity, and put on some Miles Davis...
and had 'Miles with File's night in the shop.

I figured it was time to cut my headtube down.
This is what I've got for eye candy tonight:
IMAG0131.jpg
IMAG0134.jpg
IMAG0135.jpg

Now...with the lugs as my guide, I carefully filed (with a super-wide thick file) my surfaces down...
I don't own a headtube reamer, nor do I have one at the shop...
for running an external headset, such as an EC34/28.6-EC34/30 do I really need to match these surfaces to that degree??
How important is it? I know it would be ideal...just looking for some opinions.

[veryredbike]

I would say, since you've put in a ton of time/effort/money into this... it's worth finding a shop that'll do it for you. You've mentioned before wanting to do things the right way the first time... facing it is doing it the right way. You might get away without it, but you might end up with a finicky headset that's hard to adjust and extra strain on the head tube.

Side note: is there anything prettier than that perfect hair-line of silver along the center of that ring?

[Luke]

I would say, since you've put in a ton of time/effort/money into this... it's worth finding a shop that'll do it for you. You've mentioned before wanting to do things the right way the first time... facing it is doing it the right way. You might get away without it, but you might end up with a finicky headset that's hard to adjust and extra strain on the head tube.

Side note: is there anything prettier than that perfect hair-line of silver along the center of that ring?

Very true,sir. That reinforces my instict...to seek out a reamer.
And that IS true about that ring of silver...so much beauty in building bikes. Ahhhh, metal.
;)

[Andrew R Stewart]

Luke- One can get pretty square Ht ends with a file and a square. The short/fat section of the square goes on the HT face in a number of rotational positions. How the square's blade runs along the HT length tells you where to file the face. Getting the ID right is more judgemental without a go/no go gauge. Andy.

[Toby Gallagher]

Hey Luke, looking good. When I did my frame the reaming took out quite a bit, i guess through distortion from the heat. (I will see if I have a photo looking down into the freshly reamed HT, and post it up later) I agree with others here, see if your LBS can loan you the reamer/facer.
Looking forward to seeing more progress.

[Luke]

Hey Luke, looking good. When I did my frame the reaming took out quite a bit, i guess through distortion from the heat. (I will see if I have a photo looking down into the freshly reamed HT, and post it up later) I agree with others here, see if your LBS can loan you the reamer/facer.
Looking forward to seeing more progress.

Thanks Toby...
We are in a small midwestern town...and I work at the LBS. We have everything Park makes, except the BB facer, and the HT reamer/facer. LOL
The owner never thought we would use either. (which is 100% true, until I started my frame.)
May check with some of our friendly shops in St Louis.
(or talk the owner into springing for one.) Hehee

Luke

[prolix21]

definitely seek out someone with a BB facer and make sure you have your caliper out and get it to spec for whatever BB you're using. can be a huge headache if you take too much off, especially on Campy

frame looks great though, you've got me itching to mess with frame #2

[Luke]

Thanks 21...

I'm learning a thing or two along the way...and frame number two will be great for both of us. ;)

[Luke]

Head tube work...coming along:
IMAG0151.jpg