We went to Paris a year and a half back. I agree with Murphy, get an airBNB with a close proximity to a metro stop. We were in the 18th arrondissment, close to the Sacre-Coeur. Most of the time we would find little stores on the block for wine and butter (find the beurre de barrate), find a boulangerie for the baguette/pastries/charcuterie for breakfast, go explore, stop in a street side bistro for lunch, explore more, maybe find another baguette and pastries, scope out resto's you might want to eat at later.
Google maps seemed to help me find stuff to do, also you will probably just happen upon all kinds of badass stuff. Les Cimetieres are everywhere, and amazing.
I wish we would've visited Le Musee de Rodin, I guess we have to go back for that
For one our nicer meals we went to this place and it was awesome.
Le Bon Georges – bistrot elegant et cuisine de saison
i found some of this butter when we were in Besancon and it blew our minds. I will forever be on the lookout for this..
![]()
Rather than try to cherry-pick all the excellent recommendations, I'll just give you my own from my trip with my wife in 2013. We were abroad for a week and a half, our time in Paris split by a quick weekend in Liege. Yeah, there was a bike race we needed to catch...
We first stayed at Hotel Paris Rivoli, a very central location on Rue de Rivoli. Modest (for central Paris anyways) and surprisingly quiet.
Our morning coffee was right around the corner at La Cafeotheque. Whoever said Paris isn't know for its coffee is correct, but this place is the real deal. We went to an intimate jazz show there one evening, too. Gypsy jazz a la Django. When in Rome and all that.
When we returned from Belgium we spent a few nights at Hotel 7 Eiffel. It was a bit too boutique-y for our taste.
We went to a ton of museums. The Louvre, of course. I recommend entering through the lil' Siene-side entrance (Porte des Lions): We did so as the museum opened and were standing in front of the Mona Lisa as the crowds came from the other direction. My absolute favorites were Musee d'Orsay (seeing Le Dejeuner Sur l'Herbe in the flesh blew my mind), l'Orangerie and the Musee de Carnavalet, the museum of the City of Paris, a run-down hidden treasure.
Bikes are a great way to see a lot of the city - we rented bikes for a couple days and toured north and west. We tailed some guy in a lovely suit as he sped down Rue de Rivoli past the Louvre and onto the Champs de Elysee, weaving through traffic the whole way. That was great. We rode up to Montmartre, and out & around Bois de Boulogne, and also along the Siene.
Attachment 108941
When we weren't riding we were walking. The Paris parks are nonstop wonderful. We were lucky to hit the first warm spring weekend, and Parisians were promenading! We were just reminiscing about drinks in Jardin de Tuileries the other night...
Food? Well it's been five years, but for what it's worth: La Fontaine de Mars may be well-known, but it lives up to its rep. My wife had the cassoulet, and I had the best steak frite of my life. We went on the late side and had excellent service along with the fabulous food. Le Petit Marche was also wonderful, although that night was ruined by the news of the Marathon bombings here at home... And last but not least, try Le Bistrot de l'Universite, a modest little bistro that served us an unexpectedly sublime meal.
I agree with TT about Le Marais. We probably ate a 5-6 different little spots there as we wandered the streets. Go to the top of both L'Arc de Triomphe and Tour d'Eiffel.
...oh, you absolutely must go to Sainte Chappelle on Ile de la Cite. Do not ask why, do not Google it, just go. I was given this same advice, played along, and was so very happy I did.
GO!
I went to the Louvre expecting not to bother with the Mona Lisa scrum. Then I walked by, and there was almost no one there, just 3 or 4 Japanese tourists who gave me space to stand right in front of her. Weeknight, February, who knows.
When I go back I need to visit l'Orangerie. And Saint Chappelle, again.
Dan Fuller, local bicycle enthusiast
"Longtemps, je me suis couché de bonne heure. Parfois, à peine ma bougie éteinte, mes yeux se fermaient si vite que je n'avais pas le temps de me dire : « Je m'endors. » Et, une demi-heure après, la pensée qu'il était temps de chercher le sommeil m'éveillait ; je voulais poser le volume que je croyais avoir dans les mains et souffler ma lumière ; je n'avais pas cessé en dormant de faire des réflexions sur ce que je venais de lire, mais ces réflexions avaient pris un tour un peu particulier ; il me semblait que j'étais moi-même ce dont parlait l'ouvrage : une église, un quatuor, la rivalité de François Ier et de Charles-Quint. Cette croyance survivait pendant quelques secondes à mon réveil ; elle ne choquait pas ma raison, mais pesait comme des écailles sur mes yeux et les empêchait de se rendre compte que le bougeoir n'était plus allumé. Puis elle commençait à me devenir inintelligible, comme après la métempsycose les pensées d'une existence antérieure ; le sujet du livre se détachait de moi, j'étais libre de m'y appliquer ou non ; aussitôt je recouvrais la vue et j'étais bien étonné de trouver autour de moi une obscurité, douce et reposante pour mes yeux, mais peut-être plus encore pour mon esprit, à qui elle apparaissait comme une chose sans cause, incompréhensible, comme une chose vraiment obscure. Je me demandais quelle heure il pouvait être ; j'entendais le sifflement des trains qui, plus ou moins éloigné, comme le chant d'un oiseau dans une forêt, relevant les distances, me décrivait l'étendue de la campagne déserte où le voyageur se hâte vers la station prochaine ; et le petit chemin qu'il suit va être gravé dans son souvenir par l'excitation qu'il doit à des lieux nouveaux, à des actes inaccoutumés, à la causerie récente et aux adieux sous la lampe étrangère qui le suivent encore dans le silence de la nuit, à la douceur prochaine du retour."
My recommendations are 10 years out of date (our 20th) but this is a great source for current food advice...
Paris Restaurants - David Lebovitz
For museums, Musee l'Orangerie , Musee D'Orsay, Musee Marmottan-Monet, Musee Petit Palais, Musee de Cluny and Claude Monet's House and Gardens at Giverny were our faves...
There is no better town for walking. The shops, the people watching and the architecture are second to none.
Enjoy!
Guy Washburn
Photography > www.guywashburn.com
“Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it.”
– Mary Oliver
Cookietruck made a good point. I kept a tablet computer in a small backpack to use for googlemap directions. That one thing made finding walking routes and subway navigation very smooth.
Josh Simonds
www.nixfrixshun.com
www.facebook.com/NFSspeedshop
www.bicycle-coach.com
Vsalon Fromage De Tête
When we visited Paris last year we stayed a few nights in a hotel that I always wanted to stay in—the Pavillon de la Reine. It's a special treat to live in the Place des Vosges, even for a couple of nights. And the hotel has town bikes that you can borrow, an extra plus.
That said I can't think of many worse place than Paris except maybe Bulletmore, Murderland to celebrate a wedding anniversary.
Maybe that's because I'm a french and I've lived there for a while but in contradiction to what mose asian tourists tend to think there is nothing romantic in Paris. First the monuments are all celebrating some sort of dictator, either Napoleon or a king, or a war. There is no Taj-Mahal. Secondly it is grey, very grey. At least it looks passable from helicopter views of the TDF but once you are on the sidewalk all you see will be the dog shit, the squashed chewing gums, the color of the walls darkened by the traffic pollution. You won't hear some Bal Musette or accordion tones at every corner. You will hear traffic, especially lots of unresricted maxi scooters screaming in the strets, construction noise, angry motorists shooting at who fuck knows. Third it smells like shit. Dog and human shit. There is some homeless guy asking for money every 20 meters. Most people are not very welcoming, depressing and depressed or might get angry for no good reason. Sure there are some nice museums but that's about it. I wouldn't want a wife to live that kind of experience for her 10th wedding anniversary.
Paris is one of the only place in the world whose main hospital has a whole service treating tourists from nervous breakdown caused by the difference between expectations and reality.
I'd seek for a place that is joyful and romantic, some island or private boat trip in Greece or Croatian island, a small village in the Dolomites, Tuscany or Sicilia, whatever. Or if you insist on going to France and wants great food, find a small town in Basque Country.
Last edited by sk_tle; 08-01-2018 at 01:44 AM.
--
T h o m a s
But how do you REALLY feel?
I disagree on most of your points, having spent time in Paris each of the last 20 years. Sure, it’s a big city with the attendant noise, bustle, etc. but there are so many small places and moments of sublime beauty and I’m sorry you don’t notice them.
John Cully
I ride bikes...not enough.
I drink wine...not enough.
I play guitar & bass...not well enough.
I travel...not NEARLY enough.
www.luccavacationhome.com
Bookmarks