Got my tube set and lugs. Some questions.

[BigPoser]

I received my tube set and lugs yesterday and have a few questions. Hoping you all can help. The tube set I purchased is this: NOVA OS ROAD LIGHT TUBESET with 8-5-8 TT AND DT :: ROAD TUBESETS :: NOVA :: STEEL TUBESETS :: TUBE SETS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.. I'm setting aside a few weeks for my first build. I want to make sure that I take my time and get it right.

1. I noticed some of the tubes have a painted end. That is to mark the short end of the butt correct?
2. Which end of the ST and DT go into the BB?
3. When cutting the tubes to length, which end do I cut from?
4. Other than cleaning and prepping the tubes and lugs for brazing, any other quick tips you all can offer?

Thank you in advance.

Brandon

[e-RICHIE]

Cut from the end that is NOT painted.

[Rich Beaudoin]

Get a sharpie and mark each main triangle tube before cutting anything.
Mark the butts so you know how much can be cut. If you have a flat surface find the bow in them also and mark each tube with notes.

[Paul Jacobs]

It is helpful to know the profile of each tube not just the thickness of the butted ends and tube wall. eg. the Reynolds tube below

BX2110L 31.75 0.8/0.5/0.8 680 120.50.300.50.160 indicates a tube 680 mm long with 120 mm at 0.8 then a transition to 0.5 over 50 mm then 0.5 mm for 300 mm then another 50 mm transition from 0.5 to 0.8 and 160 mm at 0.8 at the other end.

As Richard Sachs says, most tubes have the end with the shorter butt painted. Reynolds stamp the tube number on the end with the short butt. If there is any doubt you can try balancing the tube in the middle and this will show which end is heavier/has the longer butt. Some tubes have a symmetrical butt profile. For a seat tube it is usually possible to push a seatpost in one end and not the other. The end which the seat post will not go into is the end to fix in the bottom bracket shell. I always do this check however the tube is painted or marked.

Sometimes you need to cut a bit off each end so the advice from Rich Beaudoin above is good and is what I do. I mark the butts and the tapers.

Touring Bikes by Tony Oliver (the Crowood Press 1991) is a book which has some discussion about ideal butt locations as well as other ideas about designing steel frames.