From thrreaded to threadless

[mjbabcock]

Why can't we just ban folks who just joined to add spray to this place. Fucking A...

[mjbabcock]

Seriously, can we set it up so that anyone with over 5 years and "X" number of posts can just wipe the virtual presence of a new member off the face of this digital planet?

I'm serious.

[crumpton]

i'm gonna quickly cut to the chase and then ask this be locked.

To the OP, choose one.

1. Are you intending to do this yourself? If so then the answer is don't, you do not have the experience or expertise right? The 1st post tells that story.

2. Are you looking to hire this job out? If so then why not get your answer from the person/parties you intend to do that job. A local builder or fabricator perhaps? There is no point in asking a bunch of people that are not going to do the work.

Makes sense right?

[P K]

Are you ballerina or builder, seriously offended and ready to quit? Needing people to be grateful like your puppy? Fanboys want to ban me? WOW!

[mjbabcock]

Are you ballerina or builder, seriously offended and ready to quit? Needing people to be grateful like your puppy? Fanboys want to ban me? WOW!

I'm gonna ask, are you proud of the way you treat people? Do you feel better about your self in the least little bit? Fuck off.

[steve garro]

shovel.png

Are you ballerina or builder, seriously offended and ready to quit? Needing people to be grateful like your puppy? Fanboys want to ban me? WOW!

Yeah - I'm out of here.
I've got too much to do, I am not a glutton for punishment, I am offended, and I don't want you to be a puppy, that's just my litmus test of futility - if I'd rather pet my dog.

Who gives a shit anyway?
I got to go build my bikes.
I've shared all I have, anyway.


Seriously, put it down.

- Steve Garro, Coconino Cycles.
Over & Out.

[Gattonero]

Wow, what a mess.
I guess that happens, "ci piace la sceneggiata napoletana".

Moderators are just waiting this thread to be locked, and won't blame then. There's been lots of un-necessary talking about anything that is not the problem itself. And guess why? The very first answer wasn't clear enough, lacking of any explanation.

Now, would everyone please calm down and go back to the original post, without putting in the Big F, paranoia of sudden failure (on steel, if well engineered & executed?), saying things that have never been said (like if I was about to do the job myself, duh!), and so on.
There has been a question that is very likely to have been badly expressed in the very first place. I have no problem to admit that. It would be nice if answers are given trying to read the question. It is not mandatory, bear this in mind. Reply if you want to, it means you have the time to do so. Tell me what you would do, or what you will not do and why.
A few chaps have done this, and I do appreciate, whether that said "yes" or "no", it is the real essence of a discussion. Isn't it??

Very true Jonathan, I think you will find few framebuilders who would have experience in the method I use, most adopting the more traditional approach that Richard advocates. I adopted/modified this process from a custom fabricator I know who uses a similar technique for modifying drive shaft length on custom off road vehicles for competition. Even with the high torque load experienced in his application, when a shaft breaks it is never in the modified area, but the original, untouched shaft.

I've done around 30 of these mods when I was a bleeding heart for old bike restoration sob stories, all surviving to this day.

End of story, it is possible, it is not recommended if other options with greater margin for error exist.

That is a nice contribution.
Can you shed a bit of light of how you do those mods, if is possible? Even a rough idea.

That depends on why you're doing it. Of course, the right answer for most frame repairs is "buy a new frame" - if you want the absolute, perfect, 100% guaranteed solution.

But that's not for everyone. I do quite a few frame repairs, and I'm open with people - there are often several ways to solve a problem, all will be safe but some are better than others. For example, a repair I do quite often is a chainstay crack. You can replace the entire stay, or you can patch it. Most people opt for patching it - it's cheaper, perfectly good, and for these riders who are more interested in function over form it's a good solution.

Extending a steerer is the same thing. The right answer is buy a new fork. But if you're tight for cash, or are emotionally attached to a fork, then extending the steerer (if some properly) is a perfectly safe thing to do.

I'll never do a repair that I don't think is safe, and in almost 20 years of framebuilding nothing I've built has ever broken. Being the repair shop of choice for all the city's couriers is a very good way of testing my repairs!

Thanks to you, too.
Someone has pointed out that the metal will get stressed by the heat, and may cause a stress-riser below and above a brazed-in sleeve. What is you opinion about?

FWIW, I think that filling the threads with brass is a perfectly safe option.

Think about it this way: there's already a stress riser at the end of the threads. The original fork steerer was designed to cope with that. You would be adding material, not removing it, by adding brass. The part of the steerer that's above the bottom of the stem isn't subjected to any forces other than simple compression.

If the steerers going to break, it'll go at the crown, or at the top race, where there's a bending moment. Not half way through the stem.

That said, I think proper threaded stems look cool. If it were mine, I'd be extending the thread and running a Cinelli XA, because they're the sexiest stems ever.

You explanation makes sense.
But I do consider what Bladself says, I had the same thought. That stem does not have an efficient clamp, so I can see the brass being marked and cause a potential slippage?

[e-RICHIE]

The month is over atmo.