campy down tube shifters

[Chooey]

Hey all, thought I'd share pictures from the conversion of the discussed 10 speed bar-end shifters for use as downtube shifters. No tools are required.

First up, here's what you get out of the box:
- inner cables (and housings)
- (downtube cable stops)
- left and right shifter assemblies

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As noted previously, the rubber grips are removable. I suggest removing them while the bar-end plugs are still attached - there will just be more to grip onto. The rubber grips are held in place with glue but slide off without too much trouble.

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Once the grips are off, you will see that these are basically earlier-era downtube shifters.

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Removing the bar-end plug is simply a matter of undoing the outermost screw.

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Set aside the bar-end plug and the coupling (that resembles the downtube shifter boss). Retain the larger copper-colored disc and the 2 smaller washers. If the downtube shifter bosses have been painted over, you will need to remove the paint otherwise the shift levers will not go on fully.

EDIT: In the following picture, the washers supplied with the bar-end levers are placed on the down tube lever boss (without any separately-acquired lever-stops):

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EDIT: The picture below shows 2 types of the discussed lever-stops that I have been able to get hold of separately:

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EDIT: The lever-stops that I have chosen to use is the type with a round hole and square recess (above; right). Note that the side with the square recess fits onto the down tube lever braze-on:

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EDIT: The following picture shows how the same washers are stacked-up along with the newly-acquired lever-stops:

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Ensure proper stack-up of the shifter assembly, and take note of the lever orientation relative to the keyed mounting base.

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Once the lever assembly is fitted to the frame, the outermost set screw compresses the assembly together. The left/front shifter is similar but with less parts to work with.

EDIT: If using lever-stops and the full stack of washers, it may be necessary to remove the rubber o-ring from the right shift lever set-screw (so enough threads are engaged):

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EDIT: The following picture shows the levers without lever-stops. Note that this set-up requires care so as to not over-rotate the levers and cause the cables to go totally slack (caution: slack cables may interfere with the front wheel):

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EDIT: The stack of washers and type of lever-stops used were chosen based on how the dog-ear'ed stops line up with the levers. In the pictures below, note how the dog-ears stop the levers just shy of the cable grooves:

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Please excuse any part name slip-ups. I will follow up with more pictures once I finish the rest of the assembly, i.e. cables, and derailleurs.