Anyone have a reasonable source for small production runs of head tube badges? I was thinking of something like laser cut or stamped stainless. I thought I saw a picture posted by e-richie of something similar to what I had in mind but I can't find the picture again. I have seen Jen green's badges and although they are really slick, I am looking for something more production and a less costly. Thanks.
Anyone have a reasonable source for small production runs of head tube badges? I was thinking of something like laser cut or stamped stainless. I thought I saw a picture posted by e-richie of something similar to what I had in mind but I can't find the picture again. I have seen Jen green's badges and although they are really slick, I am looking for something more production and a less costly. Thanks.
Jason- I also used EMachine.com. My 17 units were .040" SS, water cut, cost $212 delivered. It took longer to learn the drawing software then it took to deliver.
From the left is the hand cut prototype. From .049" SS tubing. I learned about jewler's saws.
Far right is the Emachine.com one in it's raw state.
Middle is a Emachine one that has had the "stamping" to the curve and some polishing done.
Only the hand cut one is "in use". Although not yet from the painter. I will post photos when on the road.
Prior to this SS work I've used 12 or 14 gauge copper wire and wrapped it around vice handles.
Andy, I assume you braze the piece onto the head tube?
if so, why pre polish?
I find I get nice sharp edges for masking and demasking if filed, sanded, polished post braze.
If you are glueing it or attaching with screws, then cool.
Cheers Dazza The rock star is dying. And it's a small tragedy. Rock stars have blogs now. I have no use for that kind of rock star.
Nick Cave
I used Nicola Cycles, I need to order again... but when I ordered last he charged $40 for converting the drawings $10 for the SS and $5 each for the badges... They all have a little corner tab that needs filed from the waterjet, but they are sharp and look great, for a really good price. Came to $102 for 10 of them. His site: nicolacycles.blogspot.com
I guess this is the best photo I have to show... yikes!
Dazza- The frame i was building at the time was a fillet one including the BB shell. Efforts were taken else where on the frame to soften the edges and lines that intersections and extentions can create. I wanted a frame that I could rub with a rag and not catch a thread. So as my first step into this SS badge thing I had gotten a piece of tubing and cut away. It is a bit thicker then the water cut plate ones and will stand out stronger from the HT surface. I beveled the edges on purpose and buffed it out both to get some project gratification and to soften it's features after it got the second, after brazing, finishing.
I will post shots of the frame when it comes back from the painter and gets built up.
I just use the local laser guy. Their is usually one in every medium sized town now. Mine BTW is significantly cheaper than e-machine shop and does a fantastic job (yes there is good and not so good laser cutting).
As for a pressing die. I don't find it that difficult. In fact for many things I just use a wood tubing block and press it in there with a dowel. I have a dapping block for silver smithing and occasionally pull that out but wood is good.
A proper head badge is more than sending files to E-machine. A well made and repeatable pressing die is also needed.. not so easy.
Was that a typo? that you said the same thing twice with a minor change?
All I can say is that ask 20 framebuilders get 20 answers but I think you know I have made but just a few head-badges in my day and I just don't find bending them that hard nor do I think it requires major thought in the design of a pressing tool. Now, if one was making a lot of bikes certainly a easy, dummy proof method would be advisable but when you are making sub 20 a year I don't find the 3 minutes used per badge that much of a biggie.
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