The Nomadic Life

[bigbill]

Jay, you're living a coffee table book. I hope you have some photos to assemble into a narrative of your journey. Maybe even a series of haiku.

I'm in Wyoming in our new house making the home improvement magic happen. My lovely wife is living in the travel trailer for another three weeks in Arizona while she finishes the semester teaching ceramics at the CC. I'll drive down on 5/11 so we can depart on 5/15. The trailer has been at the barn since March and it has power and the ability to fill the fresh water tank. She has been emptying the black and grey into a wheeled tote and dumping it into a septic connection about 100' away. When we head up, I plan on making sure the black tank is full by adding fresh water and then using the dump at Maverik east of St George, UT. I'm going to flush until the water is clear. We're stopping for the night in Spanish Fork south of SLC. We'll flush one more time in Shoshoni, WY, which has a dump that has a slight uphill slope that angles slightly downward on the connection side of the trailer. Our property has full hookups, but the water pressure isn't that great for a flush. We'll be living indoors this summer but want to take the trailer on some trips, starting with clean tanks.

[twowheels]

I found out about a bucket list item I didn't know existed until today. This Saturday, the road between West Yellowstone and Mammoth Springs opens up to cyclists for about two weeks. The only vehicles will be official park and contractors. I'll likely drive the six hours to West Yellowstone on Wednesday and stay Wed-Thurs night and hopefully get a good experience on Thursday and Friday on my bike. I'll take the open because it has 32mm Specialized Roubaix tubeless. They handle the occasional patch of gravel. I'll keep the bike in hotel room so the Orange Seal won't freeze at night. It looks like upper 40s and low 50s with teens at night. Time to zip tie the bear spray to the camelbak.

This sounds fantastic, enjoy. I know that road but wasn't aware there existed a narrow window of cyclist-only (aside from official vehicle) access.

We used to annually ride McKenzie Pass when it was only open to cyclists but haven't done the ride for a couple years--since a friend sold his nearby house.

[ides1056]

I closed the circle a few days ago, arriving back at Temple 1 and having my stamp book signed and dated there. To fully complete the journey I will go to Koya-san, where Kukai, whose footsteps the route follows more or less, is interred.
I had hoped that this walk would draw a bright line across my life: before/ after. Everyone I walked with was changed. It was apparent in their demeanor. How and what will take time to process. I lit candles and In every for people I knew and loved who have died- it was a long list and I ran out somewhere around 80, though many were remembered repeatedly. Dogs and a cat were remembered as well.
I did not take a remotely direct course, walking into every Shinto shrine I passed and a good number of other Buddhist temples- they abound. In the end this amounted to more than 1000 miles on foot, with a pack of varying weight. I have pilgrims’ feet now, and weigh less than anytime since I was 17. My doctor will take note when I return.
I love Shikoku. The people are kind and generous, the place redolent of California when I was a child. The birdlife is superabundant, the sealife equally so. Every day I have walked out the door and felt grateful to be able to do this. It is a huge privilege, as is finishing.
I ran out of superlatives long ago.
I am staying in Himi for ten days or so at a simple guest house whose owner invited me. Yesterday I rented a bicycle in Imabari and rode partway across the Shimanami no Kaedo- a series of bridges over the Seto sea to Hiroshima. Jaw-dropping spectacular. I have the bike for as long as I’d like, which permits roaming more widely and gets me off my feet. They are toast. I felt comfortable despite not having ridden since November. The padded underwear and knickers I found at Mont Bell performed well. Drivers are careful enough I did not feel uncomfortable on the road.
I’d post photos but can’t off my phone. Will do so after I return home May 21.