Rep yer torch!

[Alistair]

Is this common? I'm probably a bit slower than more experienced folks but I have noticed that my J28 gets pretty warm after a few joints and I was worried I was doing something wrong or had issues in my torch. I'm following all of the instructions I can find but none, that I have seen, mention the handle getting hot after some period of time.

FWIW - I use a Victor 100 with standard hoses for big stuff and a J28 with the TM lightweight hoses for most stuff. Moving to the lighter hose was, as Doug and others predicted, a huge benefit for learning.

thanks everyone!

One reason for this can be the result of running too small of a flame with too large of tip size. The torch is cooled by the oxy/fuel mixture running through it and if this falls below the volume required by the design spec's then the torch body can start to get quite warm.

For Acetylene, light up the torch and open the fuel valve on the torch enough so that the sooty floaters at the end of the "feather" are gone, or almost gone. Then open the O2 until you get the flame you want (neutral, slightly carburizing, or whatever). If the resultant flame is too big for the piece you'll be brazing, go down to the next size tip and repeat the procedure.

Not sure if there is an equivalent procedure for Propane?


Alistair.

[jclay]

I'm not the worlds fastest brazer, so I don't know. But I've just assumed that the smaller torches are going to heat up.
It's not so hot that a thin glove doesn't solve the problem.

I think it's more a function of the cross sectional area of the torch tip. The greater the x-sectional area, the greater the thermal flux. My AW1A torch body has far more mass than my Meco Midget but it's tips have a much larger X-section. For a given tip diameter and flame size (apples to apples) the AW body gets pretty hot (though apparently not a problem) while the Midget's body doesn't even know what hot is.

[Will Neide]

I can't recall ever noticing my J28 clone getting hot. I use #1 and #3 tips (mostly #3). I use an O/P set-up. Maybe I'll pay more attention to it next time.

[Rayburn Shaun]

Sorry posted to wrong thread.

[David Tollefson]

I can't recall ever noticing my J28 clone getting hot. I use #1 and #3 tips (mostly #3). I use an O/P set-up. Maybe I'll pay more attention to it next time.

Ditto here, but I use #2 and (mostly) #4.

[EricKeller]

only time I remember my A1WA getting hot was welding. Really bad idea anyway

[duanedr]

I'm using a #0 or #1 tip on the J28 but I do have a pretty small flame so, maybe that's it. I'll try to bump the flow up a bit.

To be clear, it's not so hot I can't continue to hold it and work but, it is warm enough that I notice it with bare hands.


Duane 'I'm still growing into my big boy flames' Draper

[jclay]

I've only noticed my AW1A getting hot when driving a large flame. I don't mean too hot to use, but with a large flame and associated work piece the torch handle is noticeably quite warm. I don't suggest or think that's a problem but it doesn't happen at all to my Midget with the 10 or 7 inch necks.

I never have noticed, or don't recall anyway, the warm handle syndrome when using small tips (braze-ons and small parts) on the AW but the jobs they do are pretty quick compared to lugs and crowns.

[mmoore]

Ck9F with the AMAZING super flex hose(pictured) for use up to 120A... but if you weld 120A for long it gets REALLY hot, even though its rated to 100% duty cycle at 120A you hand cant take it. LOL
I bought a CK26F for my 120-200a... it looks the same but about 50% bigger.


HellaFab Miata Vband bottom mount manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr

I use almost exclusively #12 cup with large gas lens on the ck9 torch but I run a medium gas lens with a #8 cup on the ck26 since i really only use it for aluminum/heavy mild steel that doesnt benefit from the extended post weld coverage, but still benefits from a lens vs a standard collet body(IMO)

[fortyfour]

Update: For years I used a No. 8 Stub Alumina Nozzle. I still do when things are REALLY tight. As someone else mentioned (Rody I believe), it's good to have a selection of nozzles/lens, etc. depending on the job and the work. However, early in 2014, I wanted to try some larger nozzles, specifically a No. 10 and a No. 12. Coverage was immediately better which was obvious. However, I found sometimes that although a No. 12 gives a bit more coverage, it often gets in the way of extremely acute junctions and tight spaces. I've actually found a No. 10 Nozzle a really great mix of both great coverage but still has the ability to get into really tight spots with plenty of stick out and not lose coverage. I've also noticed that by jumping to a larger cup, I have eased my grip on the torch, so freeing up some dexterity and not realizing that sometimes I was over gripping with a No. 8. I often do not... correction, I NEVER hold the torch by the handle and almost exclusively hold it by the Alumina Nozzle. I find I'm much more precise and able to move with my wrist much more freely this way, making the actual task of welding much easier. A lot of people have asked me why and I suppose the best answer I can give is it's almost like writing: You don't hold a pencil by the eraser to write. Theoretically, sure you could, but you hold it almost down by the lead to write. Same scenario. I feel much more in control personally as I am that much closer to the arc, the puddle and the filler. This equates to control for me.

So same torch: CK 130 Rigid. No. 10 Alumina Nozzle with matching gas lens for 1/16 tungsten (2% Lanthanated):



And along with a torch, I'm going to rep my filter for my 3M Particulate Mask. I never weld without this. I only have one pair of lungs. The advanced 2297's are the new hot stuff. Proof enough for me to wear a particulate mask when welding:

[mmoore]

Once I step into my shop and get the stereo on I put on my miller particulate respirator. I agree, it's essential for all shop operations.

I went one Sunday without it once and hacked up black crud for a few days. Not good for you by any means.