Fillet Brazing Tips and Tricks

Howdy,

I'm posting because I'm interested in some tips and tricks from the masters of the fillet braze. I've got my control going well, but I've got some trouble having a constant size to the fillet - not the depth of the fillet at joint, but how far it wets out on to the tubes. Both irregular lines and struggling to make it wet out as far as I want it to.

Plus I just figure there are so tips and tricks out there that would be great to know.

Thanks all.

Try working on more consistent pre heat and rod fill will help. Preheat will help allow the fillet to form consistently, and filler feed rate will allow it to build and flow at the same rate as you move around the joint.

Get the torch tip in there really close and aim the flame on and off the joint to control heat.

i note some guys calling out different torch tips. is there a normal recommend size/style ?

I use a Harris #5 or #3. Comparisons can be found here: http://bikesmithdesign.com/Welding/tips.html

thank you

Cool guys. Those ideas helped me a lot too. I'm using a smaller flame, and as I grow comfortable with how fast the heat builds, ebbs, and flows, I'll graduate to something larger, and shorten up that heat cycle. But my radii and widths were larger and more consistant.

http://www.raphaelcycles.com/wp-cont...207-192346.jpg

Attachment 37267

my first filet braze attempt on a frame. still needs some clean up. I will also admit the tip about moving the torch in tighter was a light bulb for me. Better pools, more consistent sizing.

if needed, could/would you make a second pass on a joint to fill in exclusions or voids?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by suicideking

my first filet braze attempt on a frame. still needs some clean up. I will also admit the tip about moving the torch in tighter was a light bulb for me. Better pools, more consistent sizing.

if needed, could/would you make a second pass on a joint to fill in exclusions or voids?

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Fill any low spots with silver. If there's a tiny pinhole, use a hand cranked drill and the tiniest drill bit you have and drill until you hit the bottom and thus clean out whatever caused the pinhole. Then fill with silver. If you don't want to heat it again you can use JB Weld.

-Joel

I should mention all the above tips were given to me by Curt Goodrich and were big ah-ha moments for me.

-Joel

the fillits a little light on the top. could probably use more material.

good luck.

Perhaps I am missing something, but I always read about recommendations for filling low spots on fillets with silver, why not reheat and add brass?
If the concern is for reheating the steel, or having to heat the old brass filler even hotter to allow the seamless addition of new filler?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jacob_Curtis

Perhaps I am missing something, but I always read about recommendations for filling low spots on fillets with silver, why not reheat and add brass?
If the concern is for reheating the steel, or having to heat the old brass filler even hotter to allow the seamless addition of new filler?

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There's nothing saying you can't add brass to the low spots. It's just if the low spot is essentially an aesthetic concern silver will be much quicker. With adding a bit of silver you won't have any remelting of the already filed and sanded brass and the silver lays quite flat. The finish work of the silver will only involve a quick sanding to smooth it out. If you use brass you will be filing and sanding. But don't take my word for it. Try for yourself and decide.

the graduation on bigger fillets to 3/32nd rod is so much easier to get nice overlapped pools. IMO