Argh, my three-piece suit is now effectively a two-piece orphan

I really liked the suit, since there was just enough of tweedy impertinence that I could wear it to almost any occasion (except for a formal interview). Wore it for my civil ceremony and our subsequent honeymoon to Berlin and Amsterdam. I wear the separate pieces as I saw fit (the trousers were really nice in the cold Wisconsin winter). Hell, I could have even wore the jacket and/or vest to a tweed run.

Unfortunately, said trousers have met a perhaps early demise, as I've worn a hole through it (after three years). In the old days, i hear that one could just go to where the suit was bought and commission that a new pair be made. However, I don't think this is presently possible (I even asked at the time of purchase but was told that it's not possible).

It would appear that heavier weight, slightly patterned, three-piece suits have largely fallen out of favor, and I'm wondering where I could go to get a replacement.
A few years back, when the USD to GBP exchange rate was more favorable, I could have sourced something from clothiers in the UK, but at 1.40 USD to 1 GBP, I'd rather look elsewhere first. Brooks Brothers, from whom I bought the suit, has been steadily shying away from such offerings. I know there's J Press, but I'd need to show up to a retail location to get fitted. Ralph Lauren actually offers something that would fit the bill, except not in my size (38" shoulders paired to standard cyclist thunder thighs). What else am I missing?

If you ever make it to St. Paul, Heimie's is a good option: https://heimies.com

There's a good chance they can find the same fabric that went into your suit and make you a replacement pair of pants.

Take a shot at Nordstrom or the Nordstrom Rack, as they carry some of the better known brands...if you like the fit, they can tailor the suit or you can leave that up to your local tailor. My youngest had to wear a suit for some school events last year and rather than buy a new suit, he picked out a few of the Brooks Brothers suits that I purchased in the early 90's as they're in great shape, he had them lightly altered and they look quite dapper on him. He was surprised to read on the label that the suits were made in the US and I doubt that Brooks Brothers even makes their suits here anymore. I'm one size larger now and the last time that I purchased a suit...7-8 years or so ago...I found a few Hickey-Freeman pieces at the Nordstrom Rack. Luckily, I've managed to maintain a holding pattern on size.

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Originally Posted by caleb

If you ever make it to St. Paul, Heimie's is a good option: https://heimies.com

There's a good chance they can find the same fabric that went into your suit and make you a replacement pair of pants.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give them a try. The fabric is from an Italian mill

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Originally Posted by rwsaunders

Take a shot at Nordstrom or the Nordstrom Rack, as they carry some of the better known brands...if you like the fit, they can tailor the suit or you can leave that up to your local tailor. My youngest had to wear a suit for some school events last year and rather than buy a new suit, he picked out a few of the Brooks Brothers suits that I purchased in the early 90's as they're in great shape, he had them lightly altered and they look quite dapper on him. He was surprised to read on the label that the suits were made in the US and I doubt that Brooks Brothers even makes their suits here anymore. I'm one size larger now and the last time that I purchased a suit...7-8 years or so ago...I found a few Hickey-Freeman pieces at the Nordstrom Rack. Luckily, I've managed to maintain a holding pattern on size.

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Thanks for the suggestion. Probably a long shot, but i'll see what they have.

As for Brooks Brothers, at least until a few years ago, it still made suits in the Southwick factory in Massachusetts (I think that's where mine was made). Now they are going into re-organization, who knows. Quite a shame that the suit factory in MA and shirt factory in NC are closing, though.

Also, impressive work on maintaining a holding pattern. I know i'd be ballooning up an size or two on waist size, if I were to have such easy access to babka and focaccia :worried:

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Originally Posted by echappist

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give them a try. The fabric is from an Italian mill

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Lots of the "name" Italian mills archive their fabrics, in part so that replacements can be made down the road.

Italian: that's the root of your problem. (Rubinacci in Naples insist on British cloth, so take that as you will.) It should not have worn through in 3 years. I'm assuming that Brooks didn't take a jacketing cloth and made suits with it, which would be monumentally dumb, but the short life of your trews does hint at that possibility.

Since it is only 3 years old, the men's tailored clothing buying office at Brooks should still have a record of the cloth used for your suit (cloth merchant / mill, name of the book, and style number of the cloth). There is probably a style/item# on a label sewn into the garment -- the jacket probably has the most info sewn in -- so you can help the Brooks buyer to find the cloth details for you. I doubt that they had proprietary cloth woven exclusively for them, so it should still be in production unless they picked up an end of line cloth on the cheap. With that cloth info, you could ask a few made to measure shops (or a proper tailor) whether they have access to that particular cloth and if yes, have another pair (or two) made up. You could also try sourcing the cloth yourself from a US distributor or possibly directly from the cloth merchant/mill in Italy, and then bring the cloth to one of the shops to have the trew made -- beware that not all shops like to do CMT (cut, make, trim) orders.

I don't know how tall you are, but 1.5m should be more than enough material for a pair, even if it is has a large check pattern. (Checks require more material to ensure pattern-matching at certain seams.)

Once you have the cloth info in hand, we can look at some of the options in more detail.

Or, if things get too difficult or complicated, you can pair the jacket and waistcoat with grey flannel trousers. That might be a better solution that's virtually stress free.

You won't be happy with something that almost matches, so I wouldn't do down that path.

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Originally Posted by Chik

Italian: that's the root of your problem. (Rubinacci in Naples insist on British cloth, so take that as you will.) It should not have worn through in 3 years. I'm assuming that Brooks didn't take a jacketing cloth and made suits with it, which would be monumentally dumb, but the short life of your trews does hint at that possibility.

Since it is only 3 years old, the men's tailored clothing buying office at Brooks should still have a record of the cloth used for your suit (cloth merchant / mill, name of the book, and style number of the cloth). There is probably a style/item# on a label sewn into the garment -- the jacket probably has the most info sewn in -- so you can help the Brooks buyer to find the cloth details for you. I doubt that they had proprietary cloth woven exclusively for them, so it should still be in production unless they picked up an end of line cloth on the cheap. With that cloth info, you could ask a few made to measure shops (or a proper tailor) whether they have access to that particular cloth and if yes, have another pair (or two) made up. You could also try sourcing the cloth yourself from a US distributor or possibly directly from the cloth merchant/mill in Italy, and then bring the cloth to one of the shops to have the trew made -- beware that not all shops like to do CMT (cut, make, trim) orders.

I don't know how tall you are, but 1.5m should be more than enough material for a pair, even if it is has a large check pattern. (Checks require more material to ensure pattern-matching at certain seams.)

Once you have the cloth info in hand, we can look at some of the options in more detail.

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Thanks for the very helpful info

The mill is Vitale Barberis Canonico, and I have reached out to them.

I'm 174 cm, so I'd think 3.0 m should be enough for two pairs (assuming I could find the same cloth).

Part of me also wonder if the cut of the trousers is the issue, as Brooks cut the trouser on the slightly slimmer side (read, perhaps not as appropriate for my thunder thighs). Then again, I get the impression that if a pair of trousers were to fall apart, it should come apart at the seams, as opposed to get worn through. The hole is basically where I sit and appears more due to abrasion and fraying, like how the back pockets on my jeans gets worn through, despite the fact I put nothing in my back jean pockets these days (or in my back trouser pockets).

I'll try calling Brooks as well, but I think it's a lost cause. When I bought the suit, I thought about having an extra pair of trousers made-to-measure, using the same fabric. Instead, I was told that the MTM program used only the clothes options listed in the look book, and I couldn't get an additional pair made to match. With them undergoing restructuring, it's doubtful they would care, but I'll give it a try and see where it gets me.

Also, by jacketing cloth, are you referring to heavier grammage cloth used solely for sportcoats?

Otoh, I'm okay with wearing the orphaned pieces separately (shudders, even with jeans if need be). Just that it would be a shame if they were reduced to that capacity.

VBC are one of the best in Italy, but as with most cloth merchants, they have a broad assortment. 3m should be more than enough for 2 pairs, as I think you should actually be fine with 1m per pair unless it's a check pattern (we're of similar height).

It's not unusual for the seat to wear through. Actually it's fairly rare that wool garments come apart at the seams through normal wear, unlike plant derived garments.

MTM programmes at brands are usually outsourced to a manufacturer who keeps a stock of the cloths included in the programme for that brand. Deviation from the cloth assortment will increase cost for the manufacturer/brand/retailer because they will have to source small quantities for one order and disrupt the entire process that is optimised to fulfil orders most efficiently. Some of these programmes are in partnership with a specific cloth merchant, eg, Scabal, who has the relationship with the garment manufacturer, in which case, as you would expect, the cloth assortment is exclusively from the said cloth merchant. Long story short, Brooks weren't being exceptionally difficult; it's just the way things work with many MTM programmes. The exceptions tend to be those offered by proper tailors who are offering MTM as the more economical option. Again, it's outsourced to a manufacturer, but many offer full flexibility with the cloth selection.

Jacketing cloths are not necessarily heavier. It can be light cloths too. They are simply not as hard wearing as suitings because of the way the cloth was woven, the yarn was spun, the cloth was finished, the type of yarn, or combination thereof. For example, many (most) 100% cashmere cloths are not sold as suitings because the material is simply too delicate to make trousers -- you'll wear out the seat in no time. Therefore, they are usually only for jackets and overcoats. Of course, there are some 100% cashmere or vicuna cloths being marketed as suitings, but it's just foolish if you ask me.

Oh, I keep forgetting to mention... Even if you get a length of the cloth with the same reference number, it may not match your jacket perfectly. The likelihood is that it won't. Every batch is slightly different in colour and texture. It's a natural material from animals, so this is unavoidable. And, also consider that your jacket and waistcoat have probably developed their own patina through use.

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Originally Posted by Chik

Or, if things get too difficult or complicated, you can pair the jacket and waistcoat with grey flannel trousers. That might be a better solution that's virtually stress free.

You won't be happy with something that almost matches, so I wouldn't do down that path.

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Originally Posted by Chik

Oh, I keep forgetting to mention... Even if you get a length of the cloth with the same reference number, it may not match your jacket perfectly. The likelihood is that it won't. Every batch is slightly different in colour and texture. It's a natural material from animals, so this is unavoidable. And, also consider that your jacket and waistcoat have probably developed their own patina through use.

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For the latter reason, I like the gray flannel trousers approach suggested in the former. Then you are "only" matching style not style color weave etc.

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Originally Posted by j44ke

For the latter reason, I like the gray flannel trousers approach suggested in the former. Then you are "only" matching style not style color weave etc.

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Yes, I think that's the best option. An alternative would be cavalry twill trousers, but the basic idea is the same.

And, use the cloth from the original trousers to make cycling caps. I have a few caps made from old suits.

When I was young (20s) and impressionable, I had a few suits made using cloths from a certain Italian cloth merchant who have become more or less a household name now. They were all from the same bunch (book), and they were all mistakes. Some of them were given a second life as cycling caps, for which they are gloriously fabulous.

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Originally Posted by echappist

As for Brooks Brothers, at least until a few years ago, it still made suits in the Southwick factory in Massachusetts (I think that's where mine was made). Now they are going into re-organization, who knows. Quite a shame that the suit factory in MA and shirt factory in NC are closing, though.

Also, impressive work on maintaining a holding pattern. I know i'd be ballooning up an size or two on waist size, if I were to have such easy access to babka and focaccia :worried:

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You have received many good recommendations which I would agree with:
- Get some grey flannels and use the former suit jacket (and vest) as an odd jacket
- Even if you can find the original fabric, it will be from a different dye lot so it is unlikely it will match and why I personally would not waste time with this route
- You are correct, bespoke tailors, and current MTM programs, often offer to have 2 pants made with a suit which is such good advice since it is rare these days a suit jacket gets "worn over time" as much as the pants.
- I know many people who have a gray flannel suit made with 2 pairs of pants: one for suspenders for the suit and one with belt loops to pair with a navy blazer but also function as a backup to the other pants so your "suit" will never be broken

As to Brooks Brothers, even before the current bankruptcy, it has not been the same in years. They have been chasing trends to acquire a younger clientele and with each new initiative they fail miserably. The last suit I purchased from Brooks almost 15 years ago was a "BrooksEase" because you could purchase separates which for me meant a 44 jacket (big shoulders) and 36 pants which was not available in a standard suit with a 6" drop of 44/38. At the time it was thier mid-level quality but now the "BrooksGate" separates are pure crap. As to the other current suits, they are made for super skinny people and have very thin lapels which will look stupid in a few years when that trend finally goes away. The days of the Brooks hopsack suit are long gone.

As to the "must-iron" and "non-iron" shirts, I am buying up as many as I can find because according to the sales associates in the stores and customer service at the 800 number, they are going away (closeout pricing) and they have no idea if they will ever be back. The new "non-iron-stretch" shirts use non-organic materials such as Spandex so they feel like $hit on the skin and will not last as long. When these finally give out, I am going MTM shirt via Proper Cloth which two of my brothers have already done.

Maybe I get flamed here, but it may be time to retire the outfit. Style and lines change. Can't you just pretend the moths got it, and chuck it.

I don't know the style of tweed, but I'd just go pure casual and do jeans. The jacket and new pants will just be off.
Don't be the homeless guy in an ill fitting suit.

(As my wife and daughter's like to remind, sometimes we need tough love)

Just pretend you're not an American and wear the jacket and waistcoat with a pair of flannel trousers.

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Originally Posted by Mark Kelly

Just pretend you're not an American and wear the jacket and waistcoat with a pair of flannel trousers.

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Fannel Trousers? You mean pajamas?

https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clot...063843d1cde551

Pyjamas are normally made of flannelette.

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Originally Posted by vertical_doug

Fannel Trousers? You mean pajamas?

https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clot...063843d1cde551

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Not cotton flannel. Wool flannel.

https://www.permanentstyle.com/wp-co...-1024x1536.jpg

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/...o-flannel.html

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Originally Posted by Mark Kelly

Just pretend you're not an American and wear the jacket and waistcoat with a pair of flannel trousers.

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Right? It is mostly an English thing - or a British Isles thing. Or was. Back when your suit jacket and pants had to take you across the Moors and back to Wuthering Heights.

It can be a great fabric. And warm.