Argh, my three-piece suit is now effectively a two-piece orphan

Yeah I was just being silly.

As your pics shows, flannel is a woollen material from which suits and trousers are made: think The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit

I think it was originally made in Flanders from English wool but I'm not sure about that. Anyway, when I were a lad we were taught that one wore a Tweed (or a Thornproof) jacket with flannel trousers: only Americans wore matching trousers. Hence the dumb joke with which I started.

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Originally Posted by NYCfixie

The days of the Brooks hopsack suit are long gone.

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In case this wasn't a typo, hopsack is a type of weave/woven cloth. It has no particular association with Brooks Brothers.

Brooks gained fame for their sack suits, whose shapeless/waistless jackets with soft shoulders that resemble a potato sack were intended to accommodate as many body types as an off the peg jacket can. Hence, the term.

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Originally Posted by Chik

In case this wasn't a typo, hopsack is a type of weave/woven cloth. It has no particular association with Brooks Brothers.

Brooks gained fame for their sack suits, whose shapeless/waistless jackets with soft shoulders that resemble a potato sack were intended to accommodate as many body types as an off the peg jacket can. Hence, the term.

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Btw, that's some impressive knowledge you have re: men's formal wear. Is this hobby only or is this closely related to your line of work?

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Originally Posted by echappist

Btw, that's some impressive knowledge you have re: men's formal wear. Is this hobby only or is this closely related to your line of work?

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Just a geek, like the bike geeks on VS :) By trade, I'm a product guy, so it's fairly easy to get sucked into various rabbit holes when it comes to product categories that I care about personally, particularly when I actually use those products myself.

On another note, at the current rate I'm going (was 68.5 kg with a 30.5 inch waist back when I raced on the road; now ~71 kg with a 32 inch waist), a sack suit might actually start to be appropriate for me.

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Originally Posted by Chik

In case this wasn't a typo, hopsack is a type of weave/woven cloth. It has no particular association with Brooks Brothers.

Brooks gained fame for their sack suits, whose shapeless/waistless jackets with soft shoulders that resemble a potato sack were intended to accommodate as many body types as an off the peg jacket can. Hence, the term.

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Originally Posted by Chik

Just a geek, like the bike geeks on VS :) By trade, I'm a product guy, so it's fairly easy to get sucked into various rabbit holes when it comes to product categories that I care about personally, particularly when I actually use those products myself.

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You are correct, I used the incorrect term. As-in, a Sack suit might be made of Hopsack cloth (but it could never work the other way around).

Not sure if you are on StyleForum but that is a real interesting place if you are into men's fashion (whether trendy or classic).

Interesting the fascination Italians have for British fashions. I’ve been into shops in Florence that could have been in England easily - except that everything had a slight Italian flourish to the design. But boots, tweeds, walking sticks, caps, etc. In Florence! Definitely didn’t seem weather appropriate, though I suppose that fabrics were not Lake District thickness.

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Originally Posted by echappist

On another note, at the current rate I'm going (was 68.5 kg with a 30.5 inch waist back when I raced on the road; now ~71 kg with a 32 inch waist), a sack suit might actually start to be appropriate for me.

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So we seem to share more similar measurements... :) One advantage of getting a suit made by a proper tailor is that, with a well cut jacket or even an overcoat, you can be presented with a waist you never knew you had. A bit like a pair of push-up bras...

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Originally Posted by NYCfixie

Not sure if you are on StyleForum but that is a real interesting place if you are into men's fashion (whether trendy or classic).

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No, I'm not. I've been to that and other clothing relating internet fora, but they tend to get a bit unpleasant too quickly or have too much crap to filter through to get to anything interesting. Style or fashion is like politics and religion when discussed amongst a broad audience. Since much of it is down to taste, conversations can get out of hand very quickly, particularly if there are some who are a bit too earnest. I'm not above making a snarky comment from time to time, but I try not to go looking for one if that makes sense.

I'm fortunate to know people in real life to geek out on subjects like menswear (the making, the business, the history and lores, which are all interlinked) mainly because, as I am in the luxury goods business, we are arguably all in allied trades, particularly at the upper end of the market in contrast to the more "democratic" segments -- by that, I mean people who insist on doing things a certain way that most end consumers won't even notice. After all is said and done, we are all in the business of adornment and seduction -- who or what you seduce is up to the end user.

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Originally Posted by j44ke

Interesting the fascination Italians have for British fashions. I’ve been into shops in Florence that could have been in England easily - except that everything had a slight Italian flourish to the design. But boots, tweeds, walking sticks, caps, etc. In Florence! Definitely didn’t seem weather appropriate, though I suppose that fabrics were not Lake District thickness.

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Usually the shooting and stalking seasons are in the cooler months, so much of the assortment does make sense. If you walk into a Beretta shop, it looks like a Holland & Holland or Purdey shop, with all the British-inspired country kit taking up more floor space than the firearms. I'm sure you know that Italians are also very fond of American things.

Now going completely off tangent, but your comment reminds me of all the talk about cultural appropriation. (For the avoidance of doubt, this is not about you or your comment.) I appreciate that the notion also implies a power imbalance between the two parties in question, the stronger one allegedly exploiting the weaker one's (traditional) output. The whole "discussion" seems to ignore the fact that we've been cross pollinating each other in many ways for countless generations, and critically, seems to advocate that we refrain from doing so in the future. That makes me uncomfortable.

I don't mind the Westerners' use of a "kimono" as loungewear. Why not?

I look back at Galliano's haute couture collection inspired by the Masaï tribe or McQueen's collection featuring embroidered silk pieces inspired by traditional Tibetan and Mongolian garments. I think they were brilliant.

The Italians took the brilliant British knitwear, particularly the cashmere jumpers, and figured out a way to dye wool in bright colours like pink and baby blue instead of the dark and earthy tones that were previously thought to be the only colours possible. I think that's progress.

Anyway, rant over.

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Originally Posted by Chik

we are all in the business of adornment and seduction -- who or what you seduce is up to the end user.

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Brilliant.

I am almost certain elastic waists will be socially acceptable in public in adults under 70 post covid.

I don't see the need to worry about a 3 piece suit.

Good for you trying to replace it and yet maybe it's time to move on. I haven't seen anyone in a full suit, let alone 3 piece, in about a year! Brooks Bros. as others have noted is not the same as it was years ago and this is coming from someone who has 3 hanging in (the back) of the closet. They're all over the place in terms of style and sizing: Purple Label, Red Label, "oh we switched the labels!'

Nordstrom has good stuff from reputable brands. You just have to find the store with a good tailor. Last two suits I bought came from a local shop that Chrisitan (don't think he's active here anymore) referred me to. Is there not a local menswear / tailor near you?

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Originally Posted by Bobonli

Good for you trying to replace it and yet maybe it's time to move on. I haven't seen anyone in a full suit, let alone 3 piece, in about a year! Brooks Bros. as others have noted is not the same as it was years ago and this is coming from someone who has 3 hanging in (the back) of the closet. They're all over the place in terms of style and sizing: Purple Label, Red Label, "oh we switched the labels!'

Nordstrom has good stuff from reputable brands. You just have to find the store with a good tailor. Last two suits I bought came from a local shop that Chrisitan (don't think he's active here anymore) referred me to. Is there not a local menswear / tailor near you?

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Looks like my attempt at replacing the trouser is unsuccessful. Vitale Barberis Canonico per se has yet to respond to my inquiry; Brooks Brothers no longer does any made-to-measure; and one of the few authorized tailors of VBC cannot find the fabric in the various lookbooks.

Oh well, I guess I'll have to wear the vest and jacket as orphaned pieces, which isn't so bad, as I've been wearing them like that already; only thing is that I no longer have a complete ensemble. Guess i'll just have to source another set and be a lot more careful this time.

Thanks again to everyone's helpful suggestions.

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Originally Posted by echappist

...Brooks Brothers no longer does any made-to-measure...

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This is somewhat of a thread drift....

From what I have learned talking with several sales associates (at Boston area stores) and 800 customer service reps:
- Due to the bankruptcy, the tailors union is in negotiations with the new owners and their contract has not yet been resolved so they are not working
- Even if they come to terms, the smaller stores still do not have adequate room, due to covid restrictions in most cities/states, to allow for any tailoring services
- Made to Measure suits and shirts "should" be back sometime in late spring but may be held up for the items listed above

Depending on where the hole is, and how big it is, you may be bale to steal a piece from your jacket or pant cuff and have a really good tailor patch it/pattern match it in OR see if there is a good invisible mend place near you who can reweave the hole. Both are relatively expensive, but if you love your suit worth it.

To heck with all of it.... standardize on shorts and a Hawaiian shirt and your good to go - we dont need no stinking suits

I do understand the need for a suit (I wore one for over 20 years) BUT comfort beats all in my book

Good Luck in your search,

KJ

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Originally Posted by Mark Kelly

Anyway, when I were a lad we were taught that one wore a Tweed (or a Thornproof) jacket with flannel trousers

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You were a towny, I suspect.

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Originally Posted by Chik

You were a towny, I suspect.

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"Towny" makes no sense here, we don't have college towns.