TIG Torch help please

Hello

I am new to this forum and new to frame building. I am currently setting up my workshop with all the tooling that is required for frame building. I just recently bought the best TIG welder I could afford, most frame builders will probably be using decent Millers and Lincoln machines, but here in South Africa we pay an absolute fortune for these machines, probably $1000 more than in the U.S. for something like the Dynasty 200. So I opted for the best Chinese available here, branded R-Tech, but known as Everlast (PowerTig 225 LX) in the U.S.

The machine seems to be bang on for the buck, my only grip is it has a general purpose style torch (with trigger), it is rather heavy and cumbersome.

So that brings me to my question: I am going to be building 4130 chromoly tubed frames and looking for a good torch that will be light, nimble and versatile for general frame building. I have been doing as much research as possible via the web, but not many people talking about this subject.
I have been looking at the WP-9F and the CK130 (fitted with Superflex hoses), but not sure. I also would like to know if it is advisable to use a gas lens versus the standard nozzle set-up?

Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated, currently there is very few, if any frame builders in South Africa TIG welding 4130 frames. So very limited local info is available to me.

Thank you for reading

Regards
Clint :confused:

Clint,

I am not familiar with the machine you've purchased, but here would be my advise...

Equip yourself with a torch set up that allows for remote pedal use, water cooled, and is of a size that fits your hand well and will operate up to 200 amps for fixture work and one off fabrication. A friction cover to protect your hoses from the machine to the torch is important.

I personally use a wp-20 style that is going on about 15 years old, no complaints.

Stay away from flexible heads...why introduce another potential failure point.

Gas lenses increase the potential for quality welds by dispersing the shielding gas in a uniform pattern, use em

There are a ton of forum posts on this subject with a little creative searching, here is a recent one that may be of value to you...

tig torch ?

cheers,

rody

Hi Clint

Rody said most important things, but just in case here are my 2 cents:
-I do have an Oerlikon machine (Air Liquide group) with not water cooled torch, simple air one, and in my opinion is enough if you're not going to be welding long hours or high amps (as could happen with big production numbers or more industrial jobs). Sure Water cooling is good, but I would get first into the foot pedal or gas lens investments as they're much more relevant on the welding quality.
-Gas lens are absolutely a good recommendation, not only for better gas coverage and welding soundness, but also because it will allow you to better access tight angles (ss-st) as you'll be able to extend the tungsten further out with good gas coverage. My Torch was originally a simple one with the manual operation trigger/button, but I just went into a local welding workshop where they repair machines/torches and they took it away and replace for a button/trigger free torch, much better to handle and avoiding possible turn offs by mistake (of course, always keeping in mind you do instead have the foot pedal to control the arc). I'm sure you should be able to find out some welding machine manteinance workshop or th elike where they would help you to tune your torch with both gas lens and taking off the trigger.
-As said before, foot pedal is another great add, you'll manage to control any moment the arc intensity depending on the puddle, and also handle the torch as if it was a pen, wich will give you much better control than if holding it from the less "ergonomic" position when using the trigger.
-Just in case... Have you checked if that "R-Tech" machine is the chinese one rebranded in UK (r-techwelding.co.uk)? If so, you might be able to get some of the most interesting adds like the foot pedal.
-Get yourself some specific gloves for such "delicate" work. For example in my case I do use a thick Kevlar right glove allowing you to rest your hand over hot metal without problems (for better setady hand) and then a fine leather left glove for maximun control of the rod, covered with detachable cotton glove over the leather on, so to keep the rod as clean as possible.

Anyway, as Rody said, quite a lot information on the forum, have a look and take some ideas, then once you put some hours on the tig you'll end up finding your own ways and most likely will be nothing similar to many others, only important thing is it fits with your own way of working.

Cheers.

While Rody is always a wealth of information and nowdays my go to guy when I want to know something, I'll have to throw in a slightly different two cents about flex head torches.
While everything that Rody said is true about them, I will say that they take A LOT of abuse before they break, and in most cases that I've seen the water line will break and it will be immediately apparent. I've worked as a welder during the day for almost 15 years, and when I've seen a flex head fail it's always because some ham fisted hoser bent it too far or or it got overheated. (running 300 amps AC through a 200 amp flex head torch is bad, mmmkay?)
Don't fear the flex, embrace it. Take care of it, though;)

I'll stop usurping Rody's power now:) I love you, man.

Make sure you set up your Tig welding area so its draft free, the air as still as possible. Tig welding in just a little draft will many times null the advantages of the gas lens. I learned the importance this when I started welding Titanium. "Avoid the Draft"!

I recently switched from a weldtec water cooled 20 size flexhead torch, to the ck 9 size torch with super flex cables. I wasn't welding for long periods of time and hadn't touched aluminum in a while, so I packed up the watercooler and tossed it into storage. Can't tell the difference between the super flex cable and the three rubber (not stiff vinyl) hoses with the water cooled torch. Plus, the 20 size gas lense parts fit the 9 size torch.

I'd stick with air cooled unless you are doing production work or want to play with aluminum.

A note about those stiff vinyl hoses, you might want to consider them if you're welding stainless or titanium. The more flexible rubber hoses can absorb moisture and it will come out in your argon stream. It'll play hell when you're welding anything highly reactive. They're a bit more of a pain, but they do get more supple once they warm up and they can save you some weld issues.

Thank you all for this valuable information. I think I have narrowed it down to a CK130 torch fitted with Superflex hose and gas lens/No.8 nozzle. The chap from 44Bikes had some great insight on what works best for him. Now what is the best place to order that system? I am in South Africa so the supplier would need to be prepared to ship.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by darthmuller

Thank you all for this valuable information. I think I have narrowed it down to a CK130 torch fitted with Superflex hose and gas lens/No.8 nozzle. The chap from 44Bikes had some great insight on what works best for him. Now what is the best place to order that system? I am in South Africa so the supplier would need to be prepared to ship.

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Perfect setup ( I've run it for 3+ years now) except I use an XL Gas lens and a #12 Cup. Invaluable ATMO.

Oh! Flexing a non flexible torch head = Bad! Works but bad. My CK130 Flex has been great. Just don't push it too far.