Originally Posted by
Too Tall
First is to study what your method is and make sure that I'm able to supply the builder with exactly what they normally want to see. If you have a spec. on your website or send it to me I'll use that. Regardless of the aforementioned I will always include: a few snapshots of the rider outside in the drops and tops, current bicycle geo and contact points (before and after I make adjustments if necessary).
Sizing is your world however I will say if their current (adjusted) bike is correct.
Also, I'll give you a brief assessment of the rider. I'm not a bicycle designer and don't pretend to play one on TV ;) I charge the client a set price up front and send the results directly to you with a "CC" to the client.
My method when aside from builders requirements is to go for a ride with the client and carry some tools and possibly a stem. This is my favorite way to size bikes. Sometimes folks do not know how to sit on a bike and that in itself can hinder going forward with fitting. Thus, I'm prepared to do a little coaching on the road before we adjust the bike. In cases where the client has no bike or their current bike can not be adjusted I use a Calfee sizing bicycle. The Calfee is really pretty ideal for doing this because I can achieve a very reasonable setup that the client understands and can pedal. Once I've dialed in the basic ST/TT, Setback and stem (I use a Salsa adjustable) I will have them pedal very hard while I slowly wind the top tube adjuster out until either they squeak in protest or I see a change in their lower back....rinse and repeat until I am certain they are not compensating and the TT length is nailed. Drop is something I have a strong opinion on and can't explain it in print. All I can say is I know when it is right and I know when it is wrong. FWIIW Everyone on g-ds green earth who has drop bars should be able to reach and use the drops.
How am I doing?