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Thread: rim recomendation

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    Default rim recomendation

    I would like to lace up some new 29er wheels on boost hubs soon. I have a pretty good idea what hubs I want, but there are too many rim options out there!

    • no carbon, I am on an aluminum budget
    • 160 pound rider on a hardtail. not competitive but central Texas terrain can be ledgy. I am not historically a rim-killer. I'll err on the side of durability over weight, but it seems easy to over-build a wheel for a rider like myself these days.
    • looking for something that will support 2.35-2.5" tires. 29-32mm inner dimension? I have i25s now.
    • probably 32 spokes


    I might lace these up to a singlespeed hub, or a regular hub with spacers. when is it appropriate to use an asymmetrical rim? what is the goal or an asym hub? I get that they allow of more even spoke tension, but is that achieved because of equal bracing angles or equal spoke lengths? something else?

    I have had good experiences with WTB rims, but there are SO MANY MORE options now than when I last checked. Velocity sounds good too. trying to use USA manufacturers if I can.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I would go Velocity (looks and MUSA, which is nice) or WTB, which are fine. Asym is a good thing according to people who build wheels.

    That said, I'd still entertain carbon. I got my Nexties for $300 for the pair. They're great. Not featherweights, but wiiiide and plenty stiff. And if you are willing to bark up that tree, there's the high end cheap carbon, made in Canada Weareone, but that's twice as much as Nexties.

    edit: I just noted your weight. I am 6'2" and 200# and that's the reason I never considered Stans', was a rep for being flexy. Probably not an issue for you; I know nothing about them, though and they are probably good.
    Last edited by zambenini; 04-08-2020 at 02:15 PM.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    call me stubborn and close-minded but I just can't wrap my head around putting plastic wheels on my bicycle. No carbon ever. I want a metal bicycle.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    call me stubborn and close-minded but I just can't wrap my head around putting plastic wheels on my bicycle. No carbon ever. I want a metal bicycle.
    Fair. Tough but fair.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I've got I-29s laced to Hope hubs. I've done some dumb stuff and they're still true and profile out a 2.5" tire nicely.
    Weight Doper

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    Quote Originally Posted by bigbill View Post
    I've got I-29s laced to Hope hubs. I've done some dumb stuff and they're still true and profile out a 2.5" tire nicely.
    what rims? I think WTB commonly uses a sizing designation with that format, but it seems that most of the industry/ riders have adopted it as well.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    what rims? I think WTB commonly uses a sizing designation with that format, but it seems that most of the industry/ riders have adopted it as well.
    WTB I-29 with the offset spoke bed. Boost Hope hubs, 32 spoke. Steve Garro built them. I run 2.5" WTB Vigilante tires.
    Weight Doper

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    call me stubborn and close-minded but I just can't wrap my head around putting plastic wheels on my bicycle. No carbon ever. I want a metal bicycle.
    I resisted, it seemed like a crazy place to put a very expensive component. And then I bought a set of Special__ed (Roval) Traverse SL's -- holy crap.

    My aluminum rims were subject to periodic blacksmithing after suffering a dent. This could be either folding over a bead flange (common) or a big wonk that de-tensioned a spoke. I ride a lot of rock gardens and tend to tread the lower edge of acceptable tire pressure. The Roval rims have shrugged off what feels like hammer blows. There are scrapes and scars from overturning and kicked-up rocks. No drama. I even broke two spokes from ingesting a stick. Two adjacent spokes. Rim was straight enough to ride home. Spokes were at the LBS in days, and the repair was silly easy.

    They're on my steel-framed bike. Titanium seatpost. Aluminum crank. Steel chainwheel.
    Trod Harland, Physical Educator

    Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring. -- Desmond Tutu

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I'll give carbon rims a look. right now, a pair of most offerings cost almost more than my whole bike. cheaper ones certainly involve compromises somewhere. I can't find Nexties for that $300 price point, but if I could, I have to wonder what is happening in that factory that allows that price. sorry, I can't justify the champaign options on a beer budget like some of you, especially now.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    Trod's experience is pretty parallel to mine, only with more examples of the same. Maybe I don't send it hard enough, but I have had great experience with all types of MTB wheels. The only ones that have left me stranded were a bent-in bead flange on an alu rim. That said, now that I think of it, a set of Mavic Crossmaxes were indestructible, though. I know you went to a lot of work deciding on hubs, but if I were committed to aluminum (I would be more of that persuasion on the road or a gravel bike) I would be on Mavic's alu stuff without batting an eye. Everything else on my bike is metal, too.

    Edit: The economics are what they are, so I begrudge anyone nothing. I'm el cheapo of the cheapo when the time comes.

    Still, here's one thing I found on the sale section of Nextie's website, $250 for two of 'em:

    NXT29TD35 STD All Mountain 29" 35mm width MTB rim clincher [USD249/pair after discounted]
    3K, Matte, 28Holes, 4.5mm spoke holes diameter, no decals

    In the regular section, I found their STD (standard line) at $155 a piece - $190 a piece, depending on the width. A bit more than $300 for the pair, but I think I got mine (STD Asymmetric 32mm inner width), maybe with an ebay coupon or something from their ebay store.

    There's also Light Bicycle, both well regarded. LB has a US-based distributor now and price is creeping up, but they offer complete wheelsets in the $800-$900 range. Compromise in hubs there, probably. Still, I have done great with Nextie. There are a lot of positive reports out there on Paceline and MTBR and stuff. Frank's Cyclery here built mine up. Frank's a top wheelbuilder and he said they built up great.
    Last edited by zambenini; 04-09-2020 at 10:22 AM.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I am allergic to propriety spokes designs. I had too many customers stranded with unrideable bikes because the French supplier was backordered on one of their oddball spokes. have Mavic hubs gotten better? those never impressed me.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I edited my post above with more Nextie info. IDK about Mavic. I never needed help with them and I was lighter (180) when I rode them but was learning MTB and probably didn't ride the best lines back then. I can't stand the sound of them.

    People also like carbonfan.com - $180/rim there. I wouldn't hesitate to try them.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I would look reeeaaallly hard at WR1s. Yes, theyíre expensive. But youíll only pay the money once. If youíve ever put a dent or flat spot in an aluminum rim, youíll see the value.

    Having said that, Iím no longer a fan of the vast majority of cheap carbon MTB rims. Write one off and itís written off. Iíd rather have a shot at bending a dent out of aluminum. The durability of some carbon rims (Enve, WR1, SC Reserve) makes them a no-brainer for me.

    The same cannot be said for many cheaper options. Although my MTB townie/Chariot-puller has cracked cheap-o Chinese rims front and rear, most folks donít have the easy option of just grabbing a new rim and building a new wheel when a tire will no longer seal or (worse) stay put. If youíre factoring in the labour of paying a shop to build these wheels, make sure you factor in the possibly inevitable need to pay them to rebuild the wheel on a new rim. This applies to aluminum and cheap carbon, but much less to eg WR1, where the likelihood of you breaking it is just so, so low.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    $1400 wheels that last forever sound cheap in the long run, until you consider what a divorce costs these days. some of you know what I am talking about. DINK couple with blue collar budget upbringing. I'd be happier if I had a cheaper hobby or a wife with less dollar sense.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    @mack_turtle do you already have the hubs?

    If not pre-built wheels might be the way to go. I have built a lot of my own wheels but don't think it saved me any money vs pre-builts.
     

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    I really like building my own wheels. Getting the wheel components I want through my local bike shop would mean paying for a custom build. considering the economic situation we face, I was hoping to support my local economy by going through the LBS. I'll see what the online wheel builders have to offer though. that's just not as satisfying as lacing them up myself. I always regret researching this because it reminds me that I am in the wrong tax bracket for cycling.
    Jonathan - Austin, TX

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    Default Re: rim recomendation

    chromag phase 30, and if you push things put a ba30 on the rear

    cheap, build well

    have had great experience with my set. Broke two rear phase 30s, but that was of no fault of the rim. I'm big enough and on a hardtail, so if i make a mistake on a big slab/drop/chute line the rim breaks

    i'd also strongly advocate for a cushcore if you are doing more AM stuff- the dampening it provides the rear tire was gamechanging
     

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