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Thread: Last minute Qs

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    Default Last minute Qs

    Not gonna clog up other threads. So here...last minute fashion Qs directed at those in the know.

    1) Standard collar/ Point collar...Half-Windsor or Four in Hand?
    2) Can leather watch strap be a different grain/ texture than your shoes and belt?
    -Dustin

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Half-Windsor with a pointed collar.
    Note: Collar style should compliment the shape of your face, which then dictates the size of the knot.
    Yes, a leather watch strap can stand alone - not matching textures. But I would shoot for a consistent patina in leathers. Don’t let one be of worse condition than the other.
    Rick

    If the process is more important than the result, you play. If the result is more important than the process, you work.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by Ras72 View Post
    ... I would shoot for a consistent patina in leathers. Don’t let one be of worse condition than the other.
    That is some next level advice. Well done.
    This is my substitute for pistol and ball. With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the bike.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by jmgorman View Post
    That is some next level advice. Well done.
    Yeah, he beat me to it and nailed it by stepping up to the comment about the condition. Matching leathers from shoes to belt to watch strap would be too matchy-matchy. But they should be the same color and also have a similar level of gloss/finish. A casual distressed leather watch strap with polished shoes and belt wouldn't be great. Neither would a polished dress watch with distressed leather shoes and rough finished belt. The one exception is that it's totally cool to rock a dress watch with no belt and casual shoes if the watch can stand alone.
    "I guess you're some weird relic of an obsolete age." - davids

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Strongin View Post
    ...The one exception is that it's totally cool to rock a dress watch with no belt and casual shoes if the watch can stand alone.
    Patek Calatrava
    JLC Reverso

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    1. Four-in-hand. The simplest knot is king regardless of the collar style or spread. A more complex knot screams "trying too hard" or worse. I wouldn't go anywhere near a knot that has "Windsor" in the name, half or full, not least because the namesake never wore such a knot. No bonus points for guessing how he tied his knot. If you want the knot to be slightly more voluminous, do what he did: tell your tie maker to cut the tie wider at the knot area and use a heavier interlining material (which, incidentally, is how my ties are made). Short of that, or if you are wearing a narrow-ish knitted tie, try the Prince Albert, which, in my book, is the only acceptable alternative.

    2. Mind the colour but don't be too fussed about other details. If you wear a watch with a crocodile strap, it doesn't mean you need to wear shoes with croc uppers, etc.

    That said, dress the way you feel comfortable. It usually yields the best results anyway.
    Chikashi Miyamoto

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    i have a similar number of watches as i have bikes (5). The watches all have leather straps, black or brown. I am no style icon, but to echo what has been said, get up and go as the mood takes you. if you have a reasonable conditional strap, and clean shoes, no matter what colour combination, you will feel rather good, and (this is important) the ladies will notice. Yes, a smallish tie knot, get the length correct, and you are hot to trot.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    That’s spot on advice IMO - I like a four in hand but the tie has to be right - and slightly wider at the point of the knot is the key. I hate a chunky knot which interferes with the collar.

    I do like a fairly standard collar - but slightly longer than average, maybe partly because I’m 6’1” - just gives a nice shape. Too splayed or too pointy isn’t good.

    This isn’t a political thing but I always thought this was just about perfect - my preferred knot is similar but as I’m a bit “thicker” I would have a slightly more open collar:


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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by slwrnu View Post
    get the length correct
    Excellent point, too frequently overlooked. Not sure why...
    Chikashi Miyamoto

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    i wish this advice was prerequisite for every wedding i participated in. the groomsmen at the last wedding were left free to choose or use their own existing footwear as long as they were "brown" and of course that didnt go well.
    Matt Moore

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by mmoore View Post
    i wish this advice was prerequisite for every wedding i participated in. the groomsmen at the last wedding were left free to choose or use their own existing footwear as long as they were "brown" and of course that didnt go well.
    How many showed up in Birkenstocks?
    "I guess you're some weird relic of an obsolete age." - davids

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Strongin View Post
    How many showed up in Birkenstocks?
    some were dark dark brown, almost black.
    the ones that the suit shop we used were light brown with a dark brown toe

    some were pointy, some were blunt.

    some were leather heels, some could have well been a sketcher hiking shoe.


    the idea was to be comfortable but thats all i noticed in the photos of us.
    Matt Moore

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Ended up with Half-Windsor, because I was able to get better symmetry, which might be an OCD thing.

    and I hope you're sitting down....threw a black NATO on my IWC in prep for F1 attendance on Sunday, and liked it so much, I just wore it to the wedding.
    -Dustin

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by dashDustin View Post
    Ended up with Half-Windsor, because I was able to get better symmetry, which might be an OCD thing.

    and I hope you're sitting down....threw a black NATO on my IWC in prep for F1 attendance on Sunday, and liked it so much, I just wore it to the wedding.
    People probably just thought you were an air marshal.
    Jorn Ake
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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    While I think of my Yema as shi-shi (by my standards), watches are tools for me and a NATO only increases its style atmo. My Navygraf is on a Kevlar sailcloth strap. Functional and B.A. Commandos and spies and other cool guys also go to weddings and stuff.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by zambenini View Post
    Commandos and spies and other cool guys.
    Band name. Called it. Actually, I am going to write a book by this name.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by Chik View Post
    If you want the knot to be slightly more voluminous, do what he did: tell your tie maker to cut the tie wider at the knot area and use a heavier interlining material (which, incidentally, is how my ties are made).
    Is it still reasonable to get ties custom made in Belgium? What you're describing is exactly what I want.

    I hate the way most off the rack ties taper rapidly to a very narrow tail, leading to an itty bitty knot if you have much of any length to your torso. Brooks are obviously bad, but this is an issue even with Drake's.

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    I just get whatever repp tie has the most outrageous color combination at Brook Brothers, as long as the background color is navy blue. I wear it to the event, then I hang it in my closet forever.
    Jorn Ake
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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by caleb View Post
    Is it still reasonable to get ties custom made in Belgium? What you're describing is exactly what I want.

    I hate the way most off the rack ties taper rapidly to a very narrow tail, leading to an itty bitty knot if you have much of any length to your torso. Brooks are obviously bad, but this is an issue even with Drake's.
    Travelling at the mo. Will revert in a couple of days if that’s ok.
    Chikashi Miyamoto

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    Default Re: Last minute Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by caleb View Post
    Is it still reasonable to get ties custom made in Belgium? What you're describing is exactly what I want.

    I hate the way most off the rack ties taper rapidly to a very narrow tail, leading to an itty bitty knot if you have much of any length to your torso. Brooks are obviously bad, but this is an issue even with Drake's.
    There are several places you can order bespoke ties, but there are usually one or two issues.

    Some require that you order at least 3 of the same tie (same cloth and likely the same shape). Years ago, I used to order ties from Vanners, English silk weavers that supply silk as well as finished ties to companies all over the world. Since they've been around for ages, their archives are enormous, and they have a very broad range of silks at any given time. They don't actually make the ties in house since they specialise in weaving, but they have contract manufacturers in England to do the making. They require a minimum order of 3 ties, so I used to keep one and give away the other 2 as Christmas or birthday presents.

    Same deal with Drake's albeit I don't know if they still accept bespoke commissions after Michael sold the company and retired a few years ago. I actually don't even know if they still have their workshop in east London...

    The other issue is that regardless of minimum order quantities, it's usually a bit awkward to place an order without having to visit them in person. A few places that come to mind are Turnbull & Asser and Budd in London, Charvet in Paris, and Marinella in Naples. I don't know of an American source, but that doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I don't know.

    An excellent option for anyone anywhere is Sam Hober (Luxury Ties & Pocket Squares by Sam Hober). I've been going to them exclusively for, I think, over 10 years. David Hober, an American, runs the front of house, and his wife Noi runs the workshop. (The business is named after their daughter.) They are based in the north of Thailand and has a broad selection of cloths from the top mills in the UK, Eire and Italy. They also cultivate their own silk, spin, dye and weave Thai silks.

    You won't see craftsmanship like theirs anywhere else. Not an exaggeration. Of course, they do not have silks that are exclusive to Charvet or those wonderful prints exclusive to Marinella, but they have by far the best make. The silk selection is excellent.

    You can (and should) order a set of swatches for the silks you fancy to make sure that the colour, shade, hue, and texture are what you like. There should be a section on their web site that walks you through how to determine your specs, but David is more than happy to help you through the process. Of course, like any bespoke commission, success is partially dependent on the customer being able to articulate what's required, and in your case, the height of the four-in-hand knot is one of those specs. Length is another consideration for me because I have my trousers cut with a slightly higher waist / rise. As for construction, there are several options, but I ask for 6-fold with medium-weight wool interlining.

    A few years ago, they started offering bow ties, which gave me the excuse to get some pointed butterflies with wider / higher ends. (For evenings or for days when I feel like Pee-wee Herman.)

    They also make pocket squares and scarves. Their hand rolled edges are divine. The way Hermès roll the edges of their silk squares puts all other brands to shame, but Hober's work makes the excellent work coming out of Hermès look ordinary.

    If you decide to contact them, feel free to mention that I recommended them to you, on a cycling forum. David should get a chuckle out of that.

    Happy hunting.

    (Belgium is a bit of a sartorial wasteland, but it just might be because I haven't looked hard enough.)
    Chikashi Miyamoto

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