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Thread: Scout

  1. #101
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    Default Re: Scout

    Quote Originally Posted by lumpy View Post
    Sounds about right. I'm curious about what kind of mpg gains you can get with the Megasquirt. I've got an old Chrysler with a 2-bbl Stromberg and the Megasquirt might address some of the driveability problems that come with the Stromberg.
    Lumpy, you could find a throttle body to replace the 2bbl and then use the "microsquirt" because the TBI is very simple. But, I'd just go with the Holley Sniper bbl conversion - I hear great things about the snipers. Ready to go for your type of an application. Good luck! Bob
    Bob Spooner
    Departing from
    East Hampton, CT

  2. #102
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    Default Re: Scout

    So work has started on the Ford. I have let Finn take the lead on this project. We got it dis-assembled and really started taking assessment regarding what needed to be cut out and replaced. Some of the things that looked ok to us, really weren't: those dang farmers just welded new patch panels in over the old rusted metal. Understandable - they weren't interested in restoring the truck, they just wanted to keep the mud out. So we ended up with the need to replace the floors and body mounts front and rear on both sides; replace the lower steps both sides; A-pillar repairs both sides, etc, etc. Still not nearly the mess we were faced with on the Scout.

    We were really impressed with the hardware used on this truck. The bolts are all 5/16X fine thread bolts, still mostly in good shape after 60+ years. The sheet metal is stout.

    Pulling the cab off the chassis:

    IMG_3273.JPG

    And there it sits:

    IMG_3276.JPG

    Cutting stuff out:

    IMG_3274.JPG

    Rebuilt lower A-pillar:

    IMG_3277.JPG

    Finn did a really nice job with this - keeping in mind that we are not trying to preserve OEM design. His fabrications skills are improving but also his planning and designing skills are also improving. He/we learned a lot with the Scout and I can see he's putting it into practice here. Not perfect by any means, and he's really just out of newbie stage but I see a progression and that is what I want to see. The lower pillar supports the fender and the lower door hinge, so all of those touch points have to be where they should be. Finn made himself a few jigs to ensure that the locations were accurate.

    I have been hammering the worst of the creases out of the fenders with the funny shaped hammers, and that is going ok. We are not aiming on a factory-smooth body like we aimed for with the scout. rather, we are going to leave some of the lumps and bumps and creases in the body. We have been back and forth regarding the finish on the truck and our current thinking is this: Epoxy primer on everything. Then a full coat of light blue. The a full coat of gulf orange. Then sand most of the orange off so that it lies in the low spots. The highest of highs might be sanded down to the gray epoxy. This will give the truck a mottled, work truck kind of look. Except it will be the gulf racing colors. The rooftop will be bright white. We are early on in the process and this could change, but we have spent a lot of time trading ideas. I'd like to get some quarts of the colors and do it on a fender to see how it works out.

    Anyway, enjoy the fall. Thanks for looking - Bob&Finn
    Bob Spooner
    Departing from
    East Hampton, CT

  3. #103
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    Default Re: Scout

    Oh boy!
    Jorn Ake
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  4. #104
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    Default Re: Scout

    A double header! Thank you.

  5. #105
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    Default Re: Scout

    Plugging along: lots of hammer and dolly work. We have gotten better at knocking dents out and shrinking the metal back to where it should be. We are not trying to get the skin perfect: we plan on keeping some "texture" and go with an "old work truck" theme.

    Fab work done on the cab, except for the tunnel which will depend on how the cab fits over the transmission.

    IMG_3287.JPG

    We've found patches on top of patches on top of patches: the former owners were just concerned with keeping the mud out. Who would have thought that this old work truck would someday be desirable.

    IMG_3280.JPG

    Both door bottoms needed replacing, here partially through the metalwork:

    IMG_3300.JPG

    On this door, we had to cut an access to get a hammer in there and reshape the skin. Easier to just cut it out and replace than try to wrangle a hammer into the space.

    IMG_3301.JPG

    Finny had saved up a good chunk on money from his bike shop gig and he bought some wheels. We had to mock them up - this is actually a couple of inches lower than it will really be. We do want to go around corners:

    IMG_3294.JPG

    You might think that it's early for the wheels, but there is a method to our madness: we are designing and building the front suspension ourselves. So, you need the wheels to know where the spindle goes, and the spindle to know where the ball joints go. Once you know that you can start to determine where the other end of the A-arms go, and therefore the length of the arms. And in our case, as we are building the chassis, where the chassis rails end up. Yea, simple - ha! There has been lots of studying the suspension design books. All good stuff. Thanks for looking! Bob & Finn
    Bob Spooner
    Departing from
    East Hampton, CT

  6. #106
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    Default Re: Scout

    this thread is the best. thanks for posting!

  7. #107
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    Default Re: Scout

    Quote Originally Posted by MDEnvEngr View Post
    You might think that it's early for the wheels, but there is a method to our madness: we are designing and building the front suspension ourselves. So, you need the wheels to know where the spindle goes, and the spindle to know where the ball joints go. Once you know that you can start to determine where the other end of the A-arms go, and therefore the length of the arms. And in our case, as we are building the chassis, where the chassis rails end up. Yea, simple - ha! There has been lots of studying the suspension design books. All good stuff. Thanks for looking! Bob & Finn
    I'm looking forward to this. On a forum I frequent for 67-72 GM trucks, several builders have used aftermarket chassis designed for Pro Stock or autocross. I don't think they are all competing, rather just looking for a responsive road vehicle. What are you building your chassis for?
    Dan Fuller, local bicycle enthusiast

  8. #108
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    Default Re: Scout

    We are planning on an street/autocross truck - but not so autocrossy that it is uncomfortable on the road. This will be Finn's daily driver. And, lets face it: it would never be a great autocrosser anyway. But the AutoX is a great place to get your tire squealing on, and keep that behavior off of the road. We have an IRS out of a 2016 Mustang and will build a double-A arm IFS. We will widen the bed about 6" to accommodate the IRS and will likely have to do some fendering widening to get the front wheels were we want them. The fenders we have would be close to scrap anywhere outside of the rust belt, so we have no problems tweaking them a bit.

    Lots of studying going on regarding suspension design. The chassis will be truss type - we have the vertical room under the floor to work that out. Good stuff, really gets him engaged on the design end of things. B
    Bob Spooner
    Departing from
    East Hampton, CT

  9. #109
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    Default Re: Scout

    Thanks for the reply. Makes a ton of sense to build it for safe off-street fun. Much more interesting, to me, than spending a bunch of money on dropping and bagging a street cruiser.
    Dan Fuller, local bicycle enthusiast

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