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Alright all you tungsten contaminators!! Time to anti-up, as to what tig welding machine you use. Also, why did you buy it and what do you like\dislike about it. If there is some other machine you would like to have, include that too,(you know, that dream machine you want, but don't really need).
dynasty 200, although I would be just as happy with a good ol syncrowave. Every fab shop I've ever been in has one and they are pretty damn reliable. All that aside I have used a Lincoln precision tig 185 once and I thought it had wonderful low amperage control, better than any Miller machine I've ever used.
Dynasty 200DX. There have been a few times when welding thick steel for tables that I wish it had more output, but I do so little work requiring that much heat that it's not a big deal. I wanted the AC capability should I decide to take up aluminum. You could save $$ by sticking with a DC machine. The price of the DX has gone up so much in the last six years that if I had to do it over again at current prices I might choose differently.
Syncrowave 250DX. If you've got the space. I can see the appeal of the smaller Dynasty's for confined working areas and transportability. Dynasty's work well too but cost a bit more.
Syncrowave's are great except for one thing: If you don't get one of the new ones WITH the pulser built in, you won't really be able to pulse very well just by adding the pulser. I've been trying to use an old PC-300 with one of the newer machines and I just don't get the response I'm after but then the old pulser may be dying...works better on the older, smaller syncrowave 250's. If you really need to weld anything heavy, just switch it to stick mode and burn up some 3/32" 7018. Even the little Dynasty's do some nice stick...multi pass 3/4" plate anyone?
You'll be kicking yourself if you buy a DC only machine.
It's a lot of money to spend, might as well do it right the first time.
ever tried pulsing with your foot? once you get used to it your machine pulser becomes irrelevant for almost everything
you cant be serious.Quote:
Originally Posted by abbeyQ
who needs welding?
https://www.mightyputty.com/flare/next?tag=os|sm|go
At work I use a Lincoln Squarewave 300. I like it because of its nice low end starting amperage (<3amps). It also has pulse but I don't use the pulse on bikes so it doesn't really matter to me but I have used it on other applications and it is very user friendly. I have also used the Syncrowave 250 for many years and find its performance comparable to the Lincoln Squarewave. Both machines are bombproof and have required minimal maintenance in the last decade of daily use. Both of these machines are monsters (big and heavy).
At home I have a Miller Maxstar 200 SD. It is a really nice machine and I have used it on frames as well and it performed on par with both the Syncrowave and the Squarewave. This is an inverter machine and is only DC and has no pulse (they do make a built-in pulse option). It is about as big as a large breadbox, has a handle, weighs very little, is very portable and quite powerful. It also automatically adjusts to whatever voltage you have available as long as you use the right plug (I have a few adapters just for these situations). The duty cycle is dependent on the incoming voltage though I run it off of 240 at home and haven't had any issues welding up to 1/4" steel, if i were running it off of 110v then I would be hesitant to weld anything that thick.
No real complaints on any of them except that the bigger ones are just really large and heavy and not too portable, but if you have the space and aren't gonna move them much they are fine.
As far as pulse welding by pulsing your foot goes.... maybe for a couple of pulses but beyond that... shin-splints.
If you need the pulse feature get a welder it built-in.
do you mean the LX? I have the maxstar dx as well and it has pulse built in, I find that when the pulse is set at 150-200 pps its no different than welding with my squarewave (transformer based) but the puddle is much smoother. I think that people assume that the stack of dimes look comes from the pulser feature but i'll wager that if you ask the Maietta's and Chaneys and Strongs of the world that you will find that it comes from carefull filler rod control not a 3-5 pps settingQuote:
Originally Posted by The Chothen One
Whoops, I was away from home and didn't remember exactly... it actually the Maxstar SD, 2009 version. I'll edit my post accordingly thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by bellman
I use and absolutely love the Lincoln Squarewave 350. They just don't make them like that anymore!!!
He's serious, I do it sometimes. I've seen tons of other guys do it, too. As long as you don't need anything more than one or two a second, you're good. Any more than that and I flip on the pulse. It's also handy when you want a few pulses and then you go back to steady amperage.Quote:
Originally Posted by abbeyQ
Fwiw, the pulse function is not actually there to control bead cosmetics. It's used to retard heat buildup when welding thin materials, due to a reduced heat input cycle.That keeps .020" aluminum sheet from turning into a Pringle. It's also useful because it improves gap bridging ability, modulation of the weld pool, and increases arc stability. Using it to make your weld look nice is just a crutch.
yo i moved this thread to the frameforum atmo.
Miller Maxstar 150 STH. It's very very small, has built in pulsing, plenty power for framebuilding... and I'm not going to build with aluminum ever. One downside is that the pulsing isn't very adjustable, just a few presets, but I can't see messing with it too much anyway. I need to buy a flowmeter, and I'd like to try a gas lens too!
this is true to a point.Quote:
Originally Posted by abbeyQ
great for production welding and getting going fast.
but it can get boring. the pulser challenges me to march in line and treat the material with a little more tlc.
i like that. it's still important to temper the tlc with efficiency. and it's great for the thin stuff...which was already mentioned i'm sure.
it's good to have options.
the little maxstar's do a great job! ...but you're limited to steel. not that that's a bad thing. (oops and ti too)
i've always wanted to mess with an aerowave. my understanding is that they're a bit more adjustable than the dynasty's.
One thing that has always interested me, is the almost unanimous use of Miller welders among bike builders. I almost never hear of "Old Red" being used by the bike building community. My guess is that, bike building is a very highly specific form of metal fabrication and Miller just happens to have the machines tube manglers need!!
i've used lincoln and agree that the newer ones feel pretty good. i think it was miller that caught on to the whole squarewave technology first and aluminum welders liked it. at school i heard an old saying, "Miller in the shop, Lincoln in the field." ...bunch of old pipefitters. sounded like chevy vs. ford most of the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Proparc
says the guy who builds bikes out of plastic :)Quote:
Originally Posted by crumpton
The biggest drag to the machine pulser is the start and stop. I don't want the machine to pulse while I am waiting for the puddle to form or while I am backing off ever so slowly to prevent that crater at the end of the weld. I do use the machine pulse for long straight seems but I have never used one on a bike frame and I don't think I ever would. The manual mode is really nice for Aluminum, where it is nice to have the spike in amperage to help melt the filler. I am pretty sure that the bike biz uses the pulser in a completely different way than the people at Miller and Lincoln designed it for
I have an old Miller Syncrowave 250. I really like it. It's about 25 years old and is going strong. I've never had a problem with it. Before that I had a Maxstar and it was nice but I switched the the Sycrowave so I could weld aluminum. I also use a pulser. I weld all my steel with the pulser and titanium I switch back and forth depending on my mood, I don't use it when I weld aluminum. I can also foot pulse if I want. I think any welder worth their salt can weld with our without a pulser and foot pulse, that seems to be pretty basic stuff. This pulser yes/no debates pretty old. We all have different ways of doing things and whatever works is just fine. TIG welders all have different styles and their welds ultimately have different looks and that's the fun of it.
Airco here, but I'm not a pro, just a hobbyist. It's large and ancient (transformers), but it can do AC and has never done me wrong. Never owned a pulser.Quote:
Originally Posted by Proparc
Dynasty DX here. Four years running strong. I bought the inverter machine for size and the wave shaping software though I think I'll do the syncro route for the next machine (you can get parts)
I'm only fearful when the dynasty goes out, its pretty much a throw out and buy another... but the convenience of the little guy rocks!
Starting parameters are cool and there are hidden menus you can access to really dial it in.
Nick, we met down at the Austin at the Texas show in Oct 2009. I had the almost done Single Speed frame done on a 30+ year old Airco. I've been using a Dynasty lately and my welds immediately got WAY better using a pulser. As of late though, I've been pulsing with my foot and think my welds are better now that I know what I'm supposed to be doing. In other words, the pulser helped teach me what I was doing wrong but now I can replicate that easier with my foot and I'm not constrained to the rhythm of the pulser--even though I can set it.Quote:
Originally Posted by crumpton
So yeah, I can see that he's serious.
BTW, here is is done. I've got about 500 miles on it since I finished it in February:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...P/CIMG3276.jpg
I'm on the fence between the Syncrowave 250DX and the Dynasty 200DX at the moment. I was clicking around and realized that they end up costing about the same (new) but the Syncrowave gets me to thicker material and adds this new water cooler that only comes on when the torch comes on. I've read a lot about the inverter machines having expensive board issues (when they have them though it sounds rare) and that concerns me. The Syncrowaves seem to be hard to mess up.Quote:
Originally Posted by kpaynter
One thing I don't like about the Dynasty that I've been borrowing for the past couple of years is that on the cart, cords come out both ends up the machine and the switches are on opposite ends (for the cooler and the welder) as well. It takes up a lot more space than it should because of that.
It's a tough conversation because I'm finding most of the folks that love the Dynasty series haven't owned a Syncrowave. I'm trying to look at this objectively.
So my question is, do you have anything else to add about what you like more about the Syncrowave over the Dynasty? I'd love as much detail as your willing to discuss.
Thanks.
Convert it to air cooled and ditch the water cooler. In either case.Quote:
Originally Posted by PCW
Ok Guys,
With plenty of welding experience all be it 10years ago, and now looking at getting a new Tig Welder to build both Steel,Ti and S/S frames with AC\DC options, what would you buy?
Considering that money is on the tight side would you buy a china made unit? What’s the best value for money?
Appreciate all your thoughts.
Alex
Is there a reason you say this other than saving money? I like how flexible the torch is on a water cooled machine and it seems like the air cooled is less flexible. What benefits do you find with air cooled, Tyler?
Alex, I'd say you are looking at the same machine I'm looking at and should be between those two. They are the best value for the money. Made in the US, by Americans that care. Using anything else to build a custom frame is missing the point I think. I get that it's a ton of cash--is for me too, but at least find a great used machine. Another way to look at it, a Miller doesn't lose a ton of value ever. Those cheap machines lose almost all of if/when you try to sell it or 100% if it stops working. I don't intend to ever sell this machine, but it's good to know it'll be worth 80-100% or more in 5 years if I do sell it. I see that as "best value" aside from the extra functions these machines have that those don't.
I've used a lot of machines over the years both blue and red. Now have a Dynasty 200dx- while it is a great machine nothing will make your heart sink like seeing a "HELP" message come up on the screen! If I were to buy another it would likely be a Syncrowave. Just for serviceability alone. That said if you are just looking for the most bang-for-the -buck and a good all around machine I have heard these are pretty good: PowerPro 256 - Welders For Sale, Plasma Cutters, Plasma Cutting Machines, Accessories, Welder Repair the bells and the whistles at nearly half the cost of a Dynasty. (maybe not the resale staying power though!) There is also similar units from ThermalArc and Kemppi. Everyone has a Dynasty these days but it really isn't the be all end all of TIG units. Like any machine the result is dependent on the operator. There's some good info and video of the everlast in action here: Tig Welder Settings Made Simpler
Rosko, yeah, this is the thing that I keep coming back to. Dropping $5k on a full setup is a big deal BUT if it lasts forever and is still worth essentially what I paid for it, I see that as best value and don't have a problem saving up to do it. Spending $2k on something that may or may not last seems like a waste of $2k (to me). Dad always taught me never to cheap out on tools, just buy the best from the get go... Of course, he preferred Craftsman and I was a mix of S-K and Snap-On, but that was a generational thing I suppose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosko
I'm going to pick up an HTP Invertig 221. At $2500, it offers some great features, USA Weld (their distributor) is fantastic to deal with, and it's made in Italy rather than China. It offers some AC features that are also only available on the Dynasty 350 and 700 (independent amperage settings on the EP and EN half cycles). And it's much less expensive than the Dynasty 200. I've been researching this for the better part of a year. For my budget, this is the route I'm going.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stellate
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCW
There is no water cooler. One less thing. Always good (and quieter).
The less flexible hose has not hindered me while welding and I sort of use its resistance to my advantage in many situations.
I rarely go over 80 amps (welding bikes) so I would never get the lines hot enough to need a water cooler (I'm within the max duty cycle). I can crank it here and there if I need to weld something 1/4" or thicker (like a small fixture or something) and just mind the line temps.
If I am welding anything other than bikes (like structural steel) I'll bust out the big 450 TIG with the water cooler ,or the 350 MIG, and take it from there .
For steel, titanium or stainless you don't really need more than 150 amp DC.
I chose the Maxstar 200 SD (I think I bought it in 2008) because I liked that it had a 3 amp start. I prefer the starting amperage to be as low as possible for the most control. It has a manual preflow and a variable automatic postflow. I don't pulse weld, so I didn't get that option. I also knew I wouldn't be welding any aluminum with this machine so DC was perfect (and it's a small inverter).
Thanks for all the info!!
I hear you ,the cheap tigs have their place I guess. I would love to buy top line equipment but i guess i`m looking for something
inbetween.What would you say is the best mid range tig both as a product and value for money?
Cheers
Did notice that the evelast range is now in Australia and the DX200 is approx $1,600 bucks
Made in th USA seams like a good unit, any thought?
Cheers
Everlast is made in China. They were on my list when I was researching welders. The pricing is too attractive not to be. There is a lot of discussion over on weldingweb.com and some other welding forums about Everlast. You have to cut through a lot of the BS on both sides of the argument, but I eventually shied away. I just got a bad vibe.
I purchased a Dynasty 300SD w/ water cooled torch about 3 months ago. The machine had less than 60hr on it. It's all on a nice cart too. Got it for $2500. The guy even delivered it to my house!
I haven't used it yet due to a home repair/remodel project but hope to get some practice time after Christmas.
As others have mentioned you can find some good deals on nice equipment if you do some digging.
Cheers.....SPOKE
Hey-O,
This thread has been abandoned but I wanted to add a bit of feedback on my welder in case any internet archaeologist come by.
I purchased a ESAB 186i (200 amps, AC/DC /pulse/foot pedal/argon regulator) on 11/28/2017. Prior to that I had about 1 month of welding experience on a massive Syncrowave from the early-mid-80s. I did a good amount of research and narrowed it down to the Esab or an Everlast (whatever model was that's closest in spec).
I chose the ESAB for 2 reasons: warranty + tech support.
I tried to get Everlast's tech support on the phone, it was a no go. Reading a bunch of posts from folks who had bad experiences with warranty for Everlast also made me a bit gun shy — the likelihood of the thing breaking was/is low but I didn't want to spend more $$ to ship the machine back to Everlast for them to evaluate and then give me feedback. That's $50 + 1 week - 1 month of downtime.
ESAB's tech support was great and answered my questions before I bought the machine. They also confirmed that in (unlikely) event that the machine broke under warranty there were/are several places that would repair my welder within an 45 min of my place (Airgas being one and a good safety if I ever moved to a different city).
See where this is going?
This past Sunday I noticed the dial on my machine was jumping around as I adjusted some settings: Jumps up 1 or 2 or 7 amps, when you turn it down it might jump up a few more amps before going to where you want it to. I called ESAB first thing on Monday (knowing that my warranty expires on Saturday and there's a chance that most repair shops will close early on Wed and remain closed through Monday). I spoke to tech support. They were able to identify the part, confirm that it's in stock and direct me to 3 welding repair places that could address the issue. This is how it should be . . . a non-hassle.
I drop it off Monday. Tech evaluates it on Tuesday. He calls ESAB but for some reason it's not in ESAB's system any more. So I email them a copy of my receipt. Problem solved. The only hitch is that the part won't go out until Monday. But ESAB will send it 2-day. I dunno if that's normal but hearing "2-day" makes me happy. The last time I dealt with a warranty like this, it took a month to get the part to the warehouse and another few weeks to get it to the repair shop (eff' you Marshall amps! And let's not talk about how slow bike companies can be when they send you a warranty part . . . . 3T I'm looking at you). If this were a normal week I'd have the machine back by Friday. That's rad IMO.
Overall, would I buy the machine again? Yes, absolutely . . . it's yellow (duh)
Do I have some complaints? Yes, but they're minor.
1. The fan for the ESAB is loud AF and runs constantly.
Not a huge deal but it is REALLY LOUD! Like 2 box fans on high loud.
That's why the machine sits in the corner of the shop.
2. The plastic surrounding the DINSE-in on the front of the machine is a little weird/tall.
Had to make a small adjustment when I switched to CK. It's fine just a little annoyance.
3. The machine comes with a 26 torch that is possibly the heaviest 26 torch in existence.
I would've preferred it to come with no torch or choose a more appropriate torch for my needs. (#9)
I feel like this machine is geared toward folks like me: pro-sumer-ish. We've got some skills but we're not doing this every day.
Even after 3 years of practice using a 26 torch would just make welding more difficult.
Using this 26 torch makes walking the dog and doing dishes harder.
I finally sold it to a dude that wanted to upgrade the torch that came with his Rebel . . . then I bought the CK 130 that Kris from 44 Bikes recommended.
4. I wish all the cables were the same length and 15' long.
12' gas hose
15' pedal cable (this should be the minimum)
10' ground (this annoys the F out of me!)
13' torch (whatever I sold it)
I could just put everything on a cart and STFU . . . but #1 .
5. Foot pedal.
I thought it was fine/great until I tried out whatever was attached to a Dynasty. I like the brick a bit more. But if I'm honest, a foot pedal isn't the thing that's keeping me from making "sick dabs bruh" . . . it's my lack of mooseknuckle.
I owned an Everlast Powertig 185 for 5 years and it always worked wonderfully. This was an older model without pulse, so I needed to foot pulse. Never needed a repair
I purchased a Primeweld Tig225 perhaps a year ago, have used it regularly and couldn't be happier. I did a lot of research before purchasing, as I was apprehensive because it was so affordable considering the features.
I can't speak to the longevity of the Primeweld, as I haven't owned it long enough. In terms of warrant/repairs, again I can't speak directly to this but from what I have read (and take with a grain of salt), it appears customers have been happy should their unit have needed repair. I'm sure as with anything, you could find evidence to the contrary as well.
I have not owned a more expensive red or blue box welder, mainly because could not afford it. I also don't build bikes for a living, so don't rely it my welder to make a living.
My point is that with some research, I believe that you can find a very good functioning welder at a low price with many if not all of the features of more expensive brands.
Just one more opinion to add to the mix :)
Cheers
JD
Good to know because this is the welder I have picked out for myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Reich