Campy Skeleton brake cable fixing bolts; $60??

[Z3c]

Long story but I have a pair of Record Skeleton brakes that are missing the bolts that fix the brake cables. After searching it looks like the whole assembly sells for around $60! Any ideas? I need the bolt and the flat plate that pinches the cable for a pair of brakes.. Anyone have any or know of a solution other than my spending $120? Anyone know if Shimano equivalent will work? I can buy some cheap brakes for less than the parts!

TIA,

Scott

[-Dustin]

I've used cut-to-size bolts and presta nuts in the past. Not elegant, but worked.

[AngryScientist]

that's ridiculous.

just go over to the hardware store's stainless steel bins and look around. i'm pretty sure you'll be able to make something work with a short allen bolt, nut and washer. you may have to grind a flat in one side of the washer, but that will certainly work, for <$3.

[EDS]

Long story but I have a pair of Record Skeleton brakes that are missing the bolts that fix the brake cables. After searching it looks like the whole assembly sells for around $60! Any ideas? I need the bolt and the flat plate that pinches the cable for a pair of brakes.. Anyone have any or know of a solution other than my spending $120? Anyone know if Shimano equivalent will work? I can buy some cheap brakes for less than the parts!

TIA,

Scott

Could you source a set of used mirage/veloce/centaur brakes of ebay for less than $60 and cannibalize them for parts?

[-HvA-]

Have you checked ebay or some of the online UK shops?

I've gotten Campy parts from the UK for cheaper than they were sold here wholesale in the US.

[Z3c]

Figured it out, thanks for all the ideas, this place is the best. Totally forgot that I had a pair of FSA brakes in my bin, the part fit perfectly.

Ride safe,

Scott

[nick k]

Glad you figured it out. I've used Shimano allen bolts and washers in Campy brakes, everything fits perfectly. I guess for most road calipers this is a standard size and threading.

[Applesauce]

M5 x 0.8. The "hard" part - hard as it is - is the M5 screw with the 5mm head (as opposed to 4mm). Don't mind adjusting your brake with a 4mm allen wrench? Pull a bolt from your bottle cage...

[nspace]

Digging up an old thread. Would there be any issues using an alloy bolt for this application, or is steel better?

I would like to swap these out for stainless or alloy versions. The ones sourced with record skeleton brakes are non-stainless steel. On a couple of times while washing the bike a bit of water has been left sitting in them since the socket heads are deep and some rust has formed. Would prefer a material where I don't need to worry about that.

[donevwil]

Digging up an old thread. Would there be any issues using an alloy bolt for this application, or is steel better?

If by "alloy" you mean aluminum, then I strongly suggest NOT using it in this application. Not many bolts more critical than a brake cable fixing bolt. Aluminum fasteners work fine until they don't. Some certifiable weight weenies may use them, but they are not a great solution when your goal is corrosion resistance anyway.

Definitely use a stainless steel socket head cap screw available most anywhere (McMaster-Carr, good local hardware store, etc.). I personally would add a dab of anti-seize to the threads especially if you tend to over-torque things. Readily available stainless fasteners are not of the the same strength grade as steel ones, but are fine for any bicycle application and far better than Ti or aluminum.

You could use Titanium if you were so inclined. Not as reliable as steel or stainless steel, but has high bling factor and price.

[nspace]

Sorry yes, I know all metals are some sort of alloy. Should have said aluminum. Definitely not doing it for weight savings, just corrosion resistance as you said. I agree, I won't use anything but steel to attach disc brakes, didn't know id the way the bolt was loaded made it ok with a calliper brakes. Sounds like stainless is the way to go!

Thanks!

[donevwil]

A brake cable fixing bolt is loaded in tension, the only way a fastener should be loaded. I think you're looking at an M4 thread. A socket head cap screw, as opposed to a socket button head, will give your Allen key much better grip while tightening, minimizing the chance of round-out. The rotating piece you're threading this screw into is either steel or stainless, I don't know which off the top of my head. Assuming it's stainless or just to be safe you should use a dab of anti-seize. Stainless into stainless can gall over time.