Ultra-torque Loctite

[justinf]

How much and what color? I'm getting tired of the creaks and loosening of the fixing bolt.

[Catulle]

How much and what color? I'm getting tired of the creaks and loosening of the fixing bolt.

Grant...???

[znfdl]

I use Blue and I saturate the threads.

[jim d]

Is there a number on the loctite bottle? No grease? Also, do you put it on the bb threads and the fixing bolt?

Thanks!

jim

[znfdl]

No grease. You want squeaky clean threads. I just use the loctite on the male threads.

I beleive loctite comes in three clors, use the blue loctite.

[pdxmech13]

252 if I'm not mistaken on the threads of the cups and a generous amount according to campy.

[whumpf]

242 is the medium strength blue. Don't use the red unless you want to have trouble with disassembly.

[justinf]

We are talking fixing bolt threads only, right? Not BB cups.

[znfdl]

Campy reccomends that you do the cups and the fixing bolt.

[nortonnels]

From Campy's website: "Loctite 222 can be used freely on the thread of the fixing bolt B to prevent long-term oxidation. . . tighten with a torque of 42 Nm." Make sure the spring-washer is in place.

Nelson

[GrantM]

Campy reccomends that you do the cups and the fixing bolt.

somebody buy this guy a beer.

g

[Watoni]

Loctite on the new UT stuff

I wish my Pegs, which have the UT cranks, had my PMP Microroad or the old Campy/Phil BB. Sorry, both both of those are way better ...

[Catulle]

I mean, I don't want to break anyone's heart or anything, mine is already broken, but isn't there something..., er..., specious about having to apply Loctite to that damn bolt for it not to be a pita?

[GrantM]

but isn't there something..., er..., specious about having to apply Loctite to that damn bolt for it not to be a pita?

no there isn't.
My Sachs has frame saver inside the tubes, and I use thread prep on spoke nipples.
It's really no different than putting oil on your chain, or greasing bearings.

-g

[Mshue]

The latest instructions on Campy's website specs Loctite 222. That looks like the "red" version according to the Loctite website. Someone above suggested NOT to use the red Loctite or there will be problems with disassembly. But Loctite's website indicates part may be separated using hand tools.

So, I'm inclined to go with 222 since that's what Campy specs, but am that seems to conflict with what others have suggested in this thread. Thoughts?

Thanks

[ergott]

... (double post).

[fierte_poser]

you're all confused.

222 - purple low strength
242 - blue med strength
262 - red high strength

[ergott]

Use blue or purple. IIRC, red requires heat to remove and you don't need that much strength.

Also, use the proper torque specs. Most people err by not having enough torque on BB and cassette lockrings. I don't even locktite my BBs on my bikes. They get a healthy dose of anti seize compound and proper torque. They go nowhere.

-Eric


PS the Campy suare taper + Phil Wood bb does rock!:thrasher:

[ergott]

Google is your friend.

[corko]

I used the blue on my cups...... sorted the creak.....but man you really have to crank on the spanner/tool to undo the cups later and that means REALLY crank ALL the way out not just until the 'loc'(sic) is 'broken'.