Ultra Torque knock

[Saab2000]

My Zank has developed a slight knock in the crank/BB area. It happens on the same part of the rotation and is only noticeable on the right side. Take the chain off and the crank appears to spin perfectly. No play either. Not in the shoes or cleats. Or pedals.

I don't have my tools here in DC so this will have to go past the LBS soon. I'm here Tuesday afternoon again for a few minutes and might spin past Contes or the Bike Pro Shop.

Any UT experts have bearing issues or loosening of the cups or 10mm bolt? None of those seem to be the problem but you never know.

[Jonathan]

Happened to me. Mine was coming loose.

[72gmc]

I have the same issue. Nothing seems loose and the bearings were recently replaced. I checked the Hirth joint and it was OK for torque but I may be referencing the original spec. Campy issued a higher torque spec shortly after the release of UT as I recall.

[dgauthier]

When this happened to me, it turned out the crank arm was brushing against the front deraileur. (This was on Shimano, though, not Ultra Torque.) It only happened when riding, not on a stand. One tell-tale clue: look for slight scoring/scratching on the inside of the right crankarm.

[Shinomaster]

Mine just creak. The bearings died after 6 races, a new record.

[cody.wms]

Mine did the same thing, and it was a loose bb cup.

Saab, if you want to borrow the tools, send me a pm.

[Bssc]

check the cups , check the bearings , check for side to side play, be sure the der is not hitting the arm

[ergott]

If all else fails, check the chainring bolts. One loose one will tick.

-Eric

[Mat]

Hey Jim, I'm here all week - in fact, I'm off work. I've got all the tools and you're more than welcome to stop over and work on your bike. Please let me know. It'd be a pleasure to be able to lend a hand.

[Martin T]

My Centaur aluminum UT crank clicks on the right down stroke. Very little use on it. I take the crank off, clean it, reapply a light layer of grease and it goes away for a couple of rides. Then it's back. Also, when shifting from big to small the chain will sometimes land to the right of the small ring and won't fall on to the teeth. Adjusting the fd in further does not help.

[mrlee]

Knock usually indicates bearings going bye bye in my experience. Those bearings seem to last way shorter than I like unfortunately.

[SteveP]

replace with shimano 105 for better performance.

[Shinomaster]

replace with shimano 105 for better performance.

Or a Campy square-taper.

[winmonster]

Hey Jim, I'm here all week - in fact, I'm off work. I've got all the tools and you're more than welcome to stop over and work on your bike. Please let me know. It'd be a pleasure to be able to lend a hand.

I heart VS.

[alexstar]

Thought I had the same problem - then I pulled the pedal, cleaned the threads, regreased, and retorqued. Voilà, perfectly quiet once again.

[shoney]

if you take it apart to re-tighten, re-grease, make sure to replace the $5 wavy washer as well. my guess is you'll be fine after that.

[CyclesNoir]

Check your bearing pre-tension in the rear hub. Quick test - try moving the rim laterally between the rear brake blocks. If there's movement, the hub bearings need adjustment.

[Human Epic Jolt]

i heart pedal noise. and shitty bearings. and bearings that move.

i arrow heart welds that creak. and magnesium.

[winmonster]

i heart pedal noise. and shitty bearings. and bearings that move.

i arrow heart welds that creak. and magnesium.

I heart goats, too. Seriously, I'm a goat fanatic. OK, I arrow heart them.

[Human Epic Jolt]

i watched baby goats today.

dissapppoiinted.