Campy UT cups question...

[MJS]

Are both cups (right hand and left hand side of the bike) right hand thread?

I'm switching parts from on bike to the other and having trouble getting both cups off. I'm 99% sure the right (drive side) cups are right hand thread and I cannot budge it. I don't want to screw with the left side until I'm sure which thread are on that side. Did a google search and could find a definite answer.

Also I'm using the Campy ut-bb-130 tool (funny enough same as the park one for shim) and there seems to be a good amount of "slop" or play when fitted over the cup grooves. So much that on the drive side it started slipping across and gouging the top of the grooves in the cup.

I think the mech that built the bike up (2008 centaur) back in 09 may have used the special locktite method instead of torque (alt method).

Any suggestions?

Thanks

[zetroc]

This really depends more on the threading of your bike's bottom bracket shell. if you look closely at the cups they should have the reading engraved on them in threads per inch. 1.370x24 is English, in which case the drive side cup is lefty tighty. 36x24 is Italian and both sides are righty tighty.

as far as slop between the cups and the wrench, sometimes I wrap a paper towel around the cup before sticking the wrench on there. good luck.

[MJS]

This really depends more on the threading of your bike's bottom bracket shell. if you look closely at the cups they should have the reading engraved on them in threads per inch. 1.370x24 is English, in which case the drive side cup is lefty tighty. 36x24 is Italian and both sides are righty tighty.

as far as slop between the cups and the wrench, sometimes I wrap a paper towel around the cup before sticking the wrench on there. good luck.

WOW - drive side on the english cup is lefty tighty? going down to my basement to give it another try. yeah I tought of the paper towel also - going to do that as well.

what about the non drive side for english?

thanks

[zetroc]

English non drive side is lefty loosy. english drive side is righty loosy.

don't worry, sometimes I have to triple check things too.

[MJS]

thanks - drive side came right off.

lefty loosy non drive - back to the basement.

thanks again

[zetroc]

anytime!

[MJS]

all done thanks.

Bike built back up. Just need to clean off and retape bars and I'm back on the road for Sunday - 65 and sunny is what it looks like. Gonna get in a little road ride (was planning on a mtb if I had to order new cups but you saved the day) then pull the plane out for a quick roll and spin, hop on the motorcycle to get lunch then off to a buds house for Sunday football.

Thanks again - I owe you a beer or two if your ever out east.

[eddymerckx3]

OP - these DIY clinics on bike maintenance might be helpful to avoid finding yourself wrenching in the dark:

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » External Bearing Crank Systems (Hollowtech II, MegaeXo, Giga X Pipe, X-type, Campagnolo Ultra Torque)

EM3

[summilux]

as far as slop between the cups and the wrench, sometimes I wrap a paper towel around the cup before sticking the wrench on there. good luck.

good idea. I usually push on the tool with one hand to keep it in place and apply force with the other on the breaker bar.

[Craig Ryan]

I'm sure there are fancier ways, but this is what I do. Works well.

[MJS]

workshop 008 sm.jpgI used a skewer and the park shim cup remover (which is the same as the campy BTW) to hold the side I was removing in place. After I got the drive side off I flipped the shim remover around so the flat side was against the outside of the drive side bb and used a front (shorter) skewer.