welding on cable stops

[abbeyQ]

what are your thoughts one just tacking cable stops on to a frame? Specifically those little hydraulic cable stops that you put a zip tie under, I always seem to get just a little bit to much in their and it turns in to a PITA. Welding the stops on a Ti or Al bikes is common place but what about a steel frame?

[Zimmermanbicycle]

What's your method? more info please.
-Eric

[abbeyQ]

my method for putting to much silver on the braze ons?

I haven't welded any on yet But I was thinking I would just put tiny little welds down the length of the tube and try and avoid welding around the circumference as I have always been told that was a bad idea for frames

[Eric Estlund]

Short answer? Just practice a bit more with the heat control and it should work out well.

Long answer- here is a pic from Paul S's blog with some nice weld-on's.

[crumpton]

welded stops, do you do that before pulling the tubes together or after the frame is welded?

[Zimmermanbicycle]

Sorry didn't know from your op that you where silver brazing them on.
I find having a simple tool to hold them in place works wonders and makes this a very simple and fast job otherwise they do have a tendancy to "float" on the filler,I use a soft jawed clamp with a piece of armature wire that I bend into place to hold the piece to be brazed in place.
-Eric Z

[abbeyQ]

welded stops, do you do that before pulling the tubes together or after the frame is welded?

stops are the last thing I do. I have a couple chunks of housing lying around the shop that I like to use to see how the cable routing is going to look before I make them permanent.

Any advantage to doing them before the tube gets tacked in place? I've noticed some of you guys prefer this, not sure why.

[bellman]

If you do as many brazeons as you can first before you put it all together you will be dealing with a 'normalized tube" doing it later can tension a frame or shift it from alignment. Kinda like an inch of weld in the right place can move the top of a skyscraper 6 inches. If you really want to skip the silver and weld the stops on then it is a perfect application for silicon-bronze, it will flow at a much lower temp and mix with the cast stop better than 312, 309,880 or hardwire, whichever you are using for tig.
Eric has it right in that it really is easier to work on your silver skills a little more, try filing the groove in the hose guide out a little before you braze it on so there is more room for the zip tie. Dazza said somewhere in a post in regards to silver; "get in, do what you need to do and get out" My silvering improved after reading and applying that statement.

[EricKeller]

If you put too much silver on something and you can't hide it by making it into big fillets, draw it out into a puddle so you can file it off easily. The main shortcut is to use less silver.

[vulture]

what are your thoughts one just tacking cable stops on to a frame? Specifically those little hydraulic cable stops that you put a zip tie under, I always seem to get just a little bit to much in their and it turns in to a PITA. Welding the stops on a Ti or Al bikes is common place but what about a steel frame?

If you have to ask...
I haven't found any frame alignment changes from adding stops last, and I have used silver, bronze(brazed) and silicon bronze, s-2, and 880 welded. Practice practice practice with the torch. For those paragon saddles, you can just fuze them with the tig also. Quick and easy.

[Curt Goodrich]

Nothing wrong with welding them on but make sure there's no gap underneath the braze on. Rust always seems to start there and spread under the paint or powder. Then it becomes a fault and not a feature.