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		<title>VELOCIPEDE SALON - VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</title>
		<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/</link>
		<description>Open a can of mastik and lite a Galouise.  Do it right</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 17:06:37 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>VELOCIPEDE SALON - VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Wheel flexibility</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/wheel-flexibility-33032.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:01:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've got this set of Ambrosio Nemesis on a Serotta I ride from time to time. They feel dead. I enjoy the Nemesis rims because they're strong and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So I've got this set of Ambrosio Nemesis on a Serotta I ride from time to time. They feel dead. I enjoy the Nemesis rims because they're strong and all but I think they're too heavy as well. That said, the wheels are also flexible. <br />
<br />
They're built on 8-speed Record hubs, 32/32 with heavy 14/15 gauge spokes. <br />
<br />
Spoke tension seems decent but I've never measured it. When I climb out of the saddle I can see the front wheel move in and out towards the brake pads. The rear is worse. <br />
<br />
I know folks have spoken of Campagnolo flange geometry as less than ideal. Was that true during the 8-speed era too? <br />
<br />
What can I do to stiffen the wheels? I've thought about retensioning the set. I didn't build them originally and maybe they just weren't build tight enough.<br />
<br />
Thoughts? Suggestions?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>Saab2000</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/wheel-flexibility-33032.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Zipp brake pads same as LW?</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/zipp-brake-pads-same-lw-33020.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 01:21:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Anybody know if the new Zipp grey brake pads are the same as the LW specific brake pads which are grey as well? Both made by SwissStop correct?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Anybody know if the new Zipp grey brake pads are the same as the LW specific brake pads which are grey as well? Both made by SwissStop correct?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>TJ</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/zipp-brake-pads-same-lw-33020.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Problems with Tufo S33 Special Tubulars?</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/problems-tufo-s33-special-tubulars-33011.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 12:00:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have experienced two rear wheel sidewall blowouts (defined as unfixable by cafelatex espresso) with my Tufo S33 Specials after years of great luck....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have experienced two rear wheel sidewall blowouts (defined as unfixable by cafelatex espresso) with my Tufo S33 Specials after years of great luck. Both occurred with relatively little mileage on the tires (1,000 miles on the Edge 45 Tubular and 300 miles on the Fulcrum Racing Light XLR). My weight hovers between 165 and 170 and the rear was pumped at 130 psi. I am wondering if this is rotten luck (or karma because I wasn't carrying a spare tire Saturday) or if there is something new (and not good) going on with their construction. Maybe its time to start using something else as my everyday Tubular. (suggestions for the latter - I ride a Colnago EPS - entirely for fun, stupidly long rural rides on the weekends and the Tuesday night fights with the local college team)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>saltz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/problems-tufo-s33-special-tubulars-33011.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hex Keys</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/hex-keys-32966.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 15:01:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a large collection of hex heys from various manufacturers, and just spent some time figuring out which had the best fit for my bike...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a large collection of hex heys from various manufacturers, and just spent some time figuring out which had the best fit for my bike toolbox/seatpack.  I looked at Wera (Germany), Wiha (Germany), Gearwrench (Taiwan), HexPro (folding keys from Taiwan), Bondus (several variants), Park (all of their hex keys, regardless of style, are sourced from Bondus), Pedros, Craftsman (old US-made tools), Allen (also old US-made), and some multitools from Park and CrankBrothers.  All of these have chamfered ends, by the way.  (I would like to have tried the PBTools keys from Switzerland, but don't have any.)<br />
<br />
And no, I don't &quot;collect&quot; these things!  But I have different toolsets for my car, home, electrical work, various hobbies, etc., and don't like going to one master cabinet, toolbox, or toolbag for a project.<br />
<br />
For separate keys (regular tip or ball-tip), the least play (i.e., the tightest fit) is found with the Bondhus Briteguard or Goldguard line.  Those are plated versions (chrome or gold, respectively) of keys made of their Protanium steel.  The plating must add just enough to the underlying metal to make for a closer fit than the unplated black-finished Bondhus keys.  They just wobble less.  There's no problem fitting them into any recess, but they are less likely to damage fasteners or cam-out.  They come in short versions, long versions, and long versions with ball-ends.  All are made in the US, and they're inexpensive.<br />
<br />
For 3/8&quot;-drive ratchet sets, using sockets with inserts, old US-made Craftsman are excellent (I think these used to be made by S-K for Sears, but I got them decades ago before everything became sourced from China and became junk).  <br />
<br />
For current production 1/4&quot;-drive sockets with hex inserts, the Gearwrench sockets are excellent and inexpensive.<br />
<br />
If you want 1/4&quot; insert bits, the Wiha bits are the best I could find.  (Several of these and a Prestaratchet make for a good addition to the seat bag.)  And if you need flat-tip insert bits, the Wiha and Wera lines have hollow-ground tips that won't damage slotted screw heads.<br />
<br />
The worst fits?  The multi-tools.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>JML54</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/hex-keys-32966.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>quick link success on DA 7901 chains?</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/quick-link-success-da-7901-chains-32963.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 13:54:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Any luck with Connex or KMC quick links on the asymetric DA 7901 chain? By luck, I mean no clicky-clack shit or weird shifting? I have a Connex on a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Any luck with Connex or KMC quick links on the asymetric DA 7901 chain? By luck, I mean no clicky-clack shit or weird shifting? I have a Connex on a Campy 10 speed set up and it is sumptuously convenient. I know this is google-able, but I want to hear from salonistas, not some random internet pervert. Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>shoney</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/quick-link-success-da-7901-chains-32963.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Seeking some build list advice</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/seeking-some-build-list-advice-32929.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 May 2013 06:09:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've got two projects I'm working on, currently.  A cross race bike, and a back up road bike.  I've got nearly enough parts to build up both...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So I've got two projects I'm working on, currently.  A cross race bike, and a back up road bike.  I've got nearly enough parts to build up both frames, but I'm trying to decide how to finish both.  Because I'm planning on building the cross bike 1x11, I've got an extra left Chorus 11 front shifter and derailer.  As a brake lever I'm running a gutted record 10 shifter.  So the dilemma is this, do I complete the chorus 11 for the back up road bike (all I'd need is a rear D and shifter) and complete the record 10 group for the cross bike, or do I keep all my bikes 11 speed and build up the cross bike with chorus and the road bike with something like athena?  Hopefully the question isn't too long winded.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>jdp211</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/seeking-some-build-list-advice-32929.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>(way) Undersized Crown Race</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/way-undersized-crown-race-32919.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 17:04:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So, I had a frame builder friend of mine help me build a 1 1/8" steel fork, cut the crown race portion, get it powdercoated, etc. Over the weekend I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So, I had a frame builder friend of mine help me build a 1 1/8&quot; steel fork, cut the crown race portion, get it powdercoated, etc. Over the weekend I went to press on my Chris King 30.1mm &quot;baseplate&quot; (chris king speak for crown race) and its WAY sloppy. I measured the crown race press section on the fork and its sitting at 1.167&quot; which is 29.6mm or so. I called Chris King today and they said that the smallest undersized CR is 29.9mm- not small enough. After speaking with my friend we cant figure out what happened- possibly the cutter was not square (also apparently its a 30.0mm cutter) when we cut it but that doesn't matter now. Any ideas on what to do next? My friend thinks we can lay a bronze fillet braze down and re-cut it to size; i think this is probably fine but i'm a little concerned about strength. The other drawback to that is the powdercoat will be burnt and will need to be re-coated. I have considered epoxy or retaining fluid but its a fairly large gap which is too large for me to be comfortable filling. <br />
<br />
Also, if its important its a road bike, and I'm a heavy guy at ~250#. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>nsasaki</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/way-undersized-crown-race-32919.html</guid>
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			<title>Aero brakes?</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/aero-brakes-32918.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 16:44:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I see em popping up: 
 
Simkin Egg 
Oval A700 
Sram Aero Link 
Shimano 9010 
 
Obviously meant for an aero-tuned road bike but what say you in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I see em popping up:<br />
<br />
Simkin Egg<br />
Oval A700<br />
Sram Aero Link<br />
Shimano 9010<br />
<br />
Obviously meant for an aero-tuned road bike but what say you in regards to their awesomenessocity?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>false_aesthetic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/aero-brakes-32918.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Look (Delta) pedals - service</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/look-delta-pedals-service-32888.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 04:23:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The later model Looks.  PP396's and a5.1's, would like to clean them up, replace a couple of bearings, new grease, etc. 
 
How do I get the bodies...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->The later model Looks.  PP396's and a5.1's, would like to clean them up, replace a couple of bearings, new grease, etc.<br />
<br />
How do I get the bodies and spindles opened up and separated??<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>TMB</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/look-delta-pedals-service-32888.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Paint code</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/paint-code-32886.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 00:34:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know the paint code for the blue on Colnago's Master Light Art Decor? Mine is circa 1999. I am needing to match for a touch up. They have...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Does anyone know the paint code for the blue on Colnago's Master Light Art Decor? Mine is circa 1999. I am needing to match for a touch up. They have released the same pant schemes in the Master Light for the 30th anniversary this year, so I would assume someone painting these bikes in the factory would know either the PPG or DuPont code. Trouble is trying to get the info...the blue paint scheme is referred to as A10. I have had people say use nail polish etc...but if you can get a match why not use auto paint? Another source said Colnago used Mercedes paint...any direction or help would be gratefully accepted. I have attached four pix, two showing where I need paint on BB shell edge.<a href="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/attachments/f40/54350d1368232320-paint-code-touchup.jpg"  title="Name:  touchup.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  68.9 KB">touchup.jpg</a><a href="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/attachments/f40/54349d1368232316-paint-code-profile.jpg"  title="Name:  profile.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  70.2 KB">profile.jpg</a><a href="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/attachments/f40/54348d1368232312-paint-code-photo-21.jpg"  title="Name:  photo-21.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  73.3 KB">photo-21.jpg</a><a href="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/attachments/f40/54351d1368232323-paint-code-touchupdetail.jpg"  title="Name:  touchupdetail.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  49.7 KB">touchupdetail.jpg</a> Anyone like to recommend a wheel set that would be good for training and riding as I want to preserve the Shamal 12 spoke.<br />
<br />
Best,<br />
<br />
Alan M.<br />
<br />
P.S anyone speak Italian??<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>montgoma</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/paint-code-32886.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>I have a wheel building question....</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/i-have-wheel-building-question-32832.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 03:11:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Through some obseravtion and someone telling me to, I've always built my wheels with the crossing spokes bending over each other at the last cross...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Through some obseravtion and someone telling me to, I've always built my wheels with the crossing spokes bending over each other at the last cross before the rim. Is there a real modern day reason that this should continue? During my last build, I played with having the spokes rum from hub to rim with nary a bend in sight, but built the wheel the old tried a true method in the end.<br />
<br />
So, should I continue with this? Why ? Why not?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>devlin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/i-have-wheel-building-question-32832.html</guid>
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			<title>Wheel building with bladed spokes</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/wheel-building-bladed-spokes-32799.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 May 2013 12:32:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>For the wheel builders here.... Is there a secret to keeping bladed spokes aligned during the building process? Or do you just have to be more...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->For the wheel builders here.... Is there a secret to keeping bladed spokes aligned during the building process? Or do you just have to be more careful and use something to keep each spoke from twisting?<br />
<br />
I have a project I'm considering and I am thinking of bladed spokes for that project. I'm a hobbyist wheel builder but think I do a decent job. These will be for myself.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>Saab2000</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/wheel-building-bladed-spokes-32799.html</guid>
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			<title>Drop-in headsets?</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/drop-headsets-32736.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 17:57:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So this new frame I got requires a headset with 41mm bearings that just drop in. I have no experience with these at all..  Is this the same as a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So this new frame I got requires a headset with 41mm bearings that just drop in. I have no experience with these at all..  Is this the same as a hiddenset? Are all these headsets compatible? Any recommendations for $40-$50. don't need a Campy Record on this commuter. Looks like Ritchey makes a few. Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>Shinomaster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/drop-headsets-32736.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Bar ends an MTB rear derailleur Q</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/bar-ends-mtb-rear-derailleur-q-32732.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 14:12:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My father in law to be has a Cannondale touring bike that he has but a 32 tooth rear cassette on without changing his rear derailleur. Now the upper...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->My father in law to be has a Cannondale touring bike that he has but a 32 tooth rear cassette on without changing his rear derailleur. Now the upper jockey pulley rubs in the 32. I have tried to adjust it as far away as possible with the B screw but no luck. With T-town being this weekend I was hoping to pick up a lightly used XT long cage to use on his bike but I am not an expert on indexed bar cons. I know that the rear derailleurs are not indexed so it would seem that it would work fine once the high/ low adjustments are made. Maybe a new chain too. Is there something I am missing or is it a straight swap?<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
James<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>Hank Scorpio</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/bar-ends-mtb-rear-derailleur-q-32732.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ritchey WCS crank, TA 9/10 ring question</title>
			<link>http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/ritchey-wcs-crank-ta-9-10-ring-question-32720.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 18:21:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I have this crank leftover from my CX racing days. When I had it mounted with this Ritchey 50 outer ring, and a 36 tooth TA 9/10 inner ring, the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So I have this crank leftover from my CX racing days. When I had it mounted with this Ritchey 50 outer ring, and a 36 tooth TA 9/10 inner ring, the chain would occasional get stuck in between the rings and not engage... sorta scary. I think this was originally a 9 speed crank.<br />
I just installed a Sram 34 tooth 10 speed inner ring, do you suppose that will solve the problem, even paired with this Ritchey ring? I'm wondering if the TA ring really wasn't 10 speed enough as it's thicker than this new Sram ring, or if the problem was the outer Ritchey ring? FWIW when I had this thing mounted with the TA inner ring and a different  FSA 46 tooth 10 speed outer ring I didn't have any shifting problems. I want to use this on my girlfriends commuter bike hence the safety concerns. Also, are all shimano/Sram/Fsa rings the same thickness and compatible? I know 10 speed Campy rings have changed over the years for example. Sorry if this is cornfusing.<br />
<br />
Best,<br />
<br />
Shinomaster<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/">VSalon Pro-Bicycle Tech</category>
			<dc:creator>Shinomaster</dc:creator>
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